91bluemetalicRS

I left work tonight and my car would not start. I think the kill switch on the alarm has somehow been activated. It is a factory installed gm alarm(installed in 91). I tried disconecting the battary and tried to reset the switch along with several other things but nothing seems to work....... Oh it is cold as hell and sleeting so I figured I would mess with it some more tomorrow during my lunch break. Does any one knows how to fix this problem or atleast how to bypass the alarm. If so please help. I thought about removing the wire that goes from the alarm siren to the brain but I don't know if it will help. Any input is greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!

------------------
91 rs
3.42 gears,3" flowmasters,180 deg stat,custom prom,and a new 700r4 with shift kit and all the go fast goodies.

chrisfrerick

does it crank when you turn the key or does it do nothing. if it does nothing then it has a starter kill. trace the thick 14 awg wire coming from the key switch and see where it was intercepted and reconnect it. if it cranks and then shuts down then it has a fuel pump kill.

also check to make sure that your vats key is working.

RSpeed

Try holding the valet button or flipping the valet switch while the key is in the run position.This will put the sec system in valet mode,which is a form of bypassing the system.But as stated above,we need to know if the car is cranking or not.GM uses the Code Alarm brand as their factory installed sec systems in these cars as well as most other GM vehicles.And these systems did not employ a fuel shutoff.So if it is cranking but not starting,then it would not be your alarm.Another possibility is your VATS system.Call me at my shop in Round Rock if you do not figure it out. Jeff K. 218-1818.

------------------
'91 RS, 375hp 350
New paint-solid black
ROH Snyper wheels-17x9 wrapped in 275/40/17
ASCD SS hood, High-rise Z-28 spoiler,shaved handles/antenna,
Hooker super comp 1 3/4" headers,dual 3" exhaust,two 1-chamber Flomasters,machined hi-perf GM heads,Holley double pumper 650 w/50cc pumps,Power Plus 360* high rise aluminum intake,Edelbrock Elite valve covers/14x4" open air cleaner,Mallory AFPR,Proform HI-perf HEI disributer with curve kit,Crane 292 cam,2500 stall converter,Eibach Sportline springs,KYB struts/shocks,completely rebuilt steering linkage,36/24mm sway bars,12.7 steering box,wonderbar,145 gauge cluster,Auto meter gauges,dual guage A-pillar pods,180* thermostat,dual push/pull cooling fans.
75-125 shot NOS system planned.

President-Austin 3rd Gen F-body c.c. - message board at
www.hpsmotorsports.net
See my car and others at www.ride4life.net

91bluemetalicRS

When this problem first started it would just crank and crank and nothing else would happen. Now all it will do is crank for maybe half a second and then nothing it shuts itself down. After it shuts it self down then it won't even try to crank unless I give it a few minutes without trying. I am going to try to bypass the VATS tomorrow morning to see if this is the problem. I was going to try this tonight but I didn't have the stuff to do it with.(Jeff, I appreciate the help earlier today and I may be calling you up sometime this weekend if this doesn't solve the problem.)

[This message has been edited by 91bluemetalicRS (edited November 29, 2001).]

Chevy83Z28

If it's cranking and cranking, then cranking less, and cranking less... I'd say the problem isn't in the alarm, but now you've killed the battery from too much cranking!! Check the fuel pump relay I guess..as others have said to do, and try to jump start the car or somehow charge the battery. Is there a light on the dash to tell you if the alarm is stopping the car from starting?

91bluemetalicRS

Obviously after cranking and cranking the battery died. Last night I had several people give my battery extra juice when it got low but the first 50 times I tried to start it, all it would do is crank and would not turn over. Then all of the sudden (keep in mind every time the battery got low I had someone recharge it with jumper cables) it quite cranking and cranking and all it does now is crank for 1/2 second and then it stops all together. No light on the dash except a flashing "security" light every 10 or so times I try to start it. I have had problems similar to this before, but I usually can get it started by turning the key to the on position and then push the vallet button as noted by RSpeed or disconecting the negative battery cable, waiting for a few seconds, then reinstalling it and woohoo it starts but now this won't even work. Go figure!

Chevy83Z28

Could this problem be somewhere in the ignition then? Maybe it's in the starter if the battery has power, and yet the starter still stops after a second, maybe its not fully engaging? But I'm sure you'd be able to tell just by the sound if the engine is cranking over or not. I'm not a mechanic (yet!) but just shooting out random ideas to try to help ya out, sorry buddy .

[This message has been edited by Chevy83Z28 (edited November 30, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by Chevy83Z28 (edited November 30, 2001).]

91bluemetalicRS

I tried to bypass the vats today and still didn't work. I am going to check all my conections and ignition tomorrow. I appreciate all the input.

BigL350

I would check fuel and spark before looking towards the vats system. It's not the alarm, but I would take it out anyway. Code/Chapman alarms usually go bad after 3 years anyway. Just make sure you reconnect the starter wires after you unplug the brain. If you still think it's a vats problem, measure with an ohmmeter across the pellet in the key, and put a resistor of the same value in series on one of the two vats wires. HTH

------------------
90 IROC convertible, dead stock 305TPI and TH700R4
79 Malibu, 350, ZZ3 cam, Vortec heads, Performer RPM manifold Th200r4, GN rear, real sleeper(excuse for not doing any body work)