85 Berl

I got some braided hose for a fuel line, and I think I messed it up. I couldn't get it into the connectors, so I was going to cut a small amount off of the ends to clean them up. I heard somewhere that you should use a hacksaw. I looked around the shop, and only found a sawzall. Needless to say, they aren't the same.

So... what is the right way to cut braided line?

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Jeff

'85 Berlinetta, Special Beater Edition
Mods include a 4bolt 350 with 280*, .460 lift cam, Vortec heads, Comp Cams roller tip rockers, Edelbrock TES headers, no other exhaust . Also, rusted parts on all 4 corners, and crumpled fenders, thanks to the previous owner.

Sitting Bull

I think it is recommended to wrap the line with masking tape where you want to make the cut and then use a hacksaw. The tape will keep the braiding from fraying when you saw, which is what I think is happening to you.

CrazyRob75

Exactly what Sitting Bull said.......

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85 Berlinetta Iroc exterior NOW 454 powered, 4.10 gears, 275/60/15 Hoosier Quicktimes freshly installed th350 3200 stall, shift kit, reworked valvebody, Megashifter, Biondo linelock ..........YES, it's street driven!

check it out at http://www.bsronline.net

85 Berl

Do you leave the tape on when you put it in the connectors? When I tried to put it together, the braided part frayed and wouldn't go in. You were right about what I did, although I did use the masking tape. I think the sawzall was overkill.

Apeiron

A hacksaw with a fine blade works ok, or you can use a rotory tool with a cut-off wheel. Wrap the area around the cut tightly with tape before you cut. Remove the tape after cutting. Any odd individual strands sticking out can be cut with sharp diagonal cutters.

If you're having trouble getting the ends on, put a worm-type hose clamp on about 1/8" or so from the end of the hose and tighten it down until it compresses the braid. Use a twisting motion when pushing the end on and try to get all the strands in. Once it's started you can take the hose clamp off and slide the end the rest of the way on.

clemsparks

iTrader: (1)

As long as it's not the teflon lined stuff a "beverly shear" works slicker than snot.

Unfortunately it's not a common tool in most of our shops . It's like a very big pair of tin snips (in function) that is bench mounted. If anyone does have one of these, try it out. It works GREAT!

Clem

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SCCA TransAm Series Race Mechanic/CrewChief
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1983 Z28 with LG4, 5 speed, and (unfortunately) T-tops
1983 Z28, NO T-tops, (unfortunately) Auto Transmission (hopefully not for long)
http://communities.msn.com/clemsprojects

Apeiron

How did you get that to work? A bench shear would flatten the hose as it cut, flaring the braid and making a hopeless mess.

TomP

Aren't the beverly shears throatless? Seems like it wouldn't mash the hose...?

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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

clemsparks

iTrader: (1)

It works great. Like I said, it's not for teflon lined brake hoses. To keep the braids from fraying, you wrap it with tape (just like with any other method of cutting the hose).

It will flatten it some, but I've had very much success with this method of cutting hoses

now:
since most of us don't have a beverly shear...Wrap it with tape and get a high speed cutoff wheel. It will to a good job too. You might have a few stray strands, but a quick snip with some really good end- or side-cutters will do the trick nicely,

HTH,
Clem

MikeS

What about a bandsaw?

ede

i use a chop saw

clemsparks

iTrader: (1)

oh yeah...

chop saw. That's a good one too.

Clem