Best way to remove stripped alternator torx bolt?
#1
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bound Brook, NJ USA
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Best way to remove stripped alternator torx bolt?
So my alternator dies on me last week. (only 12k on a GM alternator, but that's a different problem)
I tried to remove it yesterday but the shorter mounting bolt that's on top is stripped out. I can't even jam a larger torx bit into it to just get it out. What's my best option for getting this thing out? I was thinking of using a dremel to notch the bolt and using a large flathead to remove it. It's in there pretty tight though. Any other ideas that might be better?
I tried to remove it yesterday but the shorter mounting bolt that's on top is stripped out. I can't even jam a larger torx bit into it to just get it out. What's my best option for getting this thing out? I was thinking of using a dremel to notch the bolt and using a large flathead to remove it. It's in there pretty tight though. Any other ideas that might be better?
#3
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 2,133
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes
on
2 Posts
Car: 88' IROCZ
Engine: 388 TPI Motown 350 Race block
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: Best way to remove stripped alternator torx bolt?
Originally posted by Paul Riccioli Jr
So my alternator dies on me last week. (only 12k on a GM alternator, but that's a different problem)
I tried to remove it yesterday but the shorter mounting bolt that's on top is stripped out. I can't even jam a larger torx bit into it to just get it out. What's my best option for getting this thing out? I was thinking of using a dremel to notch the bolt and using a large flathead to remove it. It's in there pretty tight though. Any other ideas that might be better?
So my alternator dies on me last week. (only 12k on a GM alternator, but that's a different problem)
I tried to remove it yesterday but the shorter mounting bolt that's on top is stripped out. I can't even jam a larger torx bit into it to just get it out. What's my best option for getting this thing out? I was thinking of using a dremel to notch the bolt and using a large flathead to remove it. It's in there pretty tight though. Any other ideas that might be better?
Welding a hex head bolt on to it is another option.
#5
Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Schererville , IN
Posts: 7,015
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 91 GTA, 91 Formula, 89 TTA
Engine: all 225+ RWHP
Transmission: all OD
Axle/Gears: Always the good ones
What everyone else has said is the usual routes.
Make sure u use a good penetrating oil like PB blaster or the like.
Heat is another good one for siezed materials in aluminum, however you need to be careful and not melt it down :-)
The easy out style sockets are usually sold as some type of "turbo" socket and basically have swedges in it so u can pound it onto the offending bolt or nut and it will grip as it is pounded on and let u take it off.
Can get them at Sears and the like.
later
Jeremy
Make sure u use a good penetrating oil like PB blaster or the like.
Heat is another good one for siezed materials in aluminum, however you need to be careful and not melt it down :-)
The easy out style sockets are usually sold as some type of "turbo" socket and basically have swedges in it so u can pound it onto the offending bolt or nut and it will grip as it is pounded on and let u take it off.
Can get them at Sears and the like.
later
Jeremy
#6
Member
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Manchester: UK
Posts: 477
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: Was 3rd Gen now MustangGT
Engine: 302
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3:73:1
All the above will work, Torx can be a real curse even with decent sockets.
Heat is usually the big shifter of all things corroded, but of course with aluminium, and especially aluminium filled with electrical components, take care. I would be using oxy-acetylene with a very fine tip at work, or mig weld a nut over whats left as mentioned above.
Drillings fine if you have a good eye and sharp bits, and a set of taps to clean up if you have,nt.
Heat is usually the big shifter of all things corroded, but of course with aluminium, and especially aluminium filled with electrical components, take care. I would be using oxy-acetylene with a very fine tip at work, or mig weld a nut over whats left as mentioned above.
Drillings fine if you have a good eye and sharp bits, and a set of taps to clean up if you have,nt.
#7
Banned
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Feb 2000
Location: Bound Brook, NJ USA
Posts: 1,198
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks for the replies. I'm gonna try to find a set of turbo sockets later and if that doesn't work I'm gonna try squaring off the head for an open end...that seems like it would offer the most grip. If all else fails I'll drill it and use an easy out, but it's not really a straight shot.
Trending Topics
#8
Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Sidney, B.C., Canada
Posts: 418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 88 T/A
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R4
What if you just grind the end right off the bolt? Once the alt. is out itll be easy to get the bolt out W/ some visegrips.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
evilstuie
Tech / General Engine
22
01-09-2020 08:29 PM
db057
TBI
10
08-11-2015 10:11 PM