Shake Zula

[what I have]
350ci- Forged Pistons and Crank, Stock Rods
Trick Flow 23 Degree Heads
234/242 .538/.559 PowerMax Roller Cam
Holley 750 Double Pumper

[what I plan on getting]
RPM Air Gap Intake
Edelbrock Performer RPM Nitrous System- 200 shot
Built 200-4R, 3000stall, Anti-Balloon Plate
Stock Rear End with Mini Spool
Subframe Connectors, Oil Cooler

3.42 gears will put me crossing the 1/8 at the end of second gear- slower off the line
4.10 will put me crossing the 1/8 most of the way through third gear- faster off the line
Im using 28” tall tires, but could go with 26” tires

What else should I consider doing to help it run better and strengthen any weak points?

Im giving myself a year to get it done right! I want it to last at least 3 years.

Shake Zula

Ignition, Drivetrain, and Suspension wise?

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Stock rear with mini spool is not going to last long esp. with a 200 shot and slicks!

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

I'm no expert, but after looking at what you have already - Lower control arm relocation brackets?

It'll help get the power to the ground....

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

No front sway bar, lose shocks on front, soft springs, etc... everything to get the power to the ground.

LCA brackets as stated, drop the OD tranny and run a TH350, Powerglide if you can get the car light enough.

Of course required saftey equipment such as DS loop.

Taller slicks will be better if you are geared right. Tall front tires are also a good way of prodcing a better et, although it will make your RT look slower.

Good control arms, Tourqe arm, adj rear shocks would help, airbaig in rear springs. ...

Shake Zula

I will be using drag radials. RLCA I was also thinking of. I think I need new shocks in the rear anyways.

What can be done to strengthen the rear end, for around $400? Im not planning on spraying it right off the line, just after.

My car has the V6 springs so when I launch the front end shoots up and the rear squats down. I might put V8 springs in the rear.

I was debating on the TH350/200-4R. If i am able to buy a truck and trailer to get it to the track, Ill go with a Th350. But it would be cheaper to buy the overdrive and drive it there.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Well, you really need to ask yourself if this is going to be an 1/8th mile drag car, or a street strip car then.


Not much can be done to make the stock rear live to hard racing conditions. It is weak and spending money building it up is only a band aid. If you are going to be serious about racing the car, and hitting the track regularly, you will be better off setting up a 9" or a 12 bolt. Yes it is expensive, but racing is not for the cheap. A 9 bolt or 75" will only last so long, regardless of what is done to it.

You do not want the rear sqwuating done to much, that would be the purpose of the airbag. Squating translate to right rear tire lifting, thus losing traction.

A TH 350 will be livable driving to the track, but again if you are serious about racing, get a trailer, esp. if you are going to try and race on that 10 bolt. Nothing sucks more than braking and not haveing a way home!! And it will happen! Something will go wrong, esp. when first getting the car going, there are always bugs to be worked out.

Shake Zula

Im setting the car up for 1/8mile, but its gonna see some action on the street on the weekends.


Whats a good complete rear end prolly gonna cost? Not that money is much of an issue.

I'll put the rear V8 springs in that I have.

I could have a guy a race with install ladder bars. He had them on his 3rd gen that was setup for 1/8 mile and its launch was simply awesome. The entire car would pop up and go.

Ill have to do some more math with the tranny gear ratios and everything. Thing only thing I dont like with the TH350 is the 2.52 first gear.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Whats wrong with the 1st gear?

Rear you will be looking at 2 grand or so, all sad and done.

No reason to go ladder bar unless you want to tub it. Plenty of cars have gone very quick with the stock type suspension.

Shake Zula

with a 2.52 first gear, Im gonna need alot of gearing in the rear end to get me off the line quick. I want the car to take the lead off the line, not half way down the track. And since its not overdrive, it will suck terribly if I ever have to drive it somewhere more than 15 miles. And the track I race at it like 40miles away. Thats why I thought goin with the overdrive 200-4R would be better.

2 grand for a rear? No one I race with has spent that much. My friends doin a ford 9" for $380, plus the whatever he paid for it and some other parts for it.

What effect does front tire size have? Currently I have 215/65/15's up front

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Why then do most race cars run a powerglide? Which has a 1.76, or 1.82 1st gear.

A 9" houseing set up for a 3rd gen runs 1200-1500 with axles, plus center section. If you can get one set up for $380, then buy all you can and post them here. You could easily double your money! I know I'd buy one!

Cars ran fine with 1to1 high gears for years! Decades in fact! You can build a TH350 for much much less than a 2004r and run quicker, sure it will spin a bit higher, but its a give or take when you are trying to make a street strip car. Again, you gotta decide whats more important.

Front tire effects roll out. A term you should be familier with if you are planing on racing seriously.

Again you have to decide. Are you wanting to race the local brackets, go rounds and win money, or are you just going to go to test and tune, and run the track on occasion?

Shake Zula

Its not gonna be a bracket car. Its to have fun with at the track and on the street.

Most race cars run Powerglides because of just that. Theyre RACE cars, making 1000+HP Im goin for 600HP on the nitrous.
Most of the mild cars that race at the track I do have TH350's and theyre a little slow off the line.
Or will engaging the nitrous right after the tires hook realy make up for the gearing and get the car moving? Ive never used nitrous before, or a TH350 for that matter.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Any car that is light enough will benifit from a Powerglide, however, if you are no going to but yours on a diet , a TH 350 will be beter off. With the Right converter, your TH350 will launch hard. We run one in our 1/8th mile bracket car, because it weighs 3700lbs. And it pulls the front tires when launching.

Your best bet on running the n2o is to have it on a throttle switch so as soon as you go wot it will sprey, which would be right when you launch. Having it on a switch that you must engage at some point is going to make its use very inconsistant.

Shake Zula

Id rather have it on a switch. That way if I need to let off some, I could let off the nitrous instead off the throttle. Thats what my friend, did. He liked it that way much better. Also cuz I want to let off the nitrous at 5500rpm and go the last 1000rpm N/A to lower the risk of detonation or other damage. Id rather run a few tenths slower safely than pushing everything to its max.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

Then run a window switch. You will have a main arming wwitch as well that you can always hit to shut it off if you need to as well..