Please allow the photo of the tail pipes and the engine bay showing the headers to load. It runs fine doesnt ping or knock but it dosent have the normal black soot inside the tailpipes I mean it clean, and the SS headers seem pretty faded, do they look overheated? to you, or is this normal.

The reason why I'm asking is Im going to run 100hp NX nitrous and I dont want to run into a lean problem and fry it.

Is there a easy way to check if all is OK?
it runs and drives fine and pull hard, I just hate to see something get damage.

Thanks in advance

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cg...ndexURL=0&rd=1

 

The color of the headers has LOT more to do with the quality of their coating than the engine running lean.

I like the SLP "2-on-da-lef" exhaust- we jsut put that on my brother's (much more beat up looking) 1987 GTA and it sounds MEAN. Especially with 409 ci of Miniram-injected small block breathing through it!

Exhaust tips take a while longer to color up. That looks new to me.

If you're worried about running lean the first thing I would do is hook up a fuel pressure gague to the fuel rail, duck tape the gague to the windshield and take a spin. If the pressure dips at WOT at higher RPMs, then you will DEFINITELY be running lean, and should install an adequate pump BEFORE putting on the nitrous.

If the engine is basically stock and nobody has messed with the chip or injectors then a basic fuel pressure test like above is usually all you need to be rlatively comfortable all is working well. At least when STOCK. I assume that engine is just using basic SLP bolt ons, but there's no way to know for sure just from a picture. If they have used the full SLP package (stage 4, 5, 6, whatever) and have used all the parts SLP recommends, like an appropriate chip in the ECM, then it's probably a well matched combo and again, you can feel reasonably confident from just a fuel pressure test.

It is a REALLY GOOD IDEA to leave that gague hooked up when you make your first nitrous run, too! Even if the fuel supply is adequate while running N/A is might not be able to keep up with the added fuel imposed when running on the jug. Better safe than sorry.

Stock fuel pressure is about 43PSI, BTW. It should stay constant ALL THROUGH THE RPM RANGE AT WOT. No dips, no fall-off at higher RPMs.


I use nitrous all the time on many different cars and have never blown up an engine with it- but I ALWAYS make sure I have adequate fuel supply.


[This message has been edited by Damon (edited November 19, 2001).]

 

SLP_GTA,
I saw all the picuters and i saw your shifter. Where did you get that shifter? Is it stock? It looks really nice

------------------
1989 Iroc-Z 5.7 350, Blue, T-Tops

Lightly Moded:
Edelbrock Headers, Rebuilt B&M 700R-4 Tranny, Higher Stall Torque Converter, Airfoil, 3.4 w\posi, K&N's, Ported Plenum
-- Blue LED Bakelite Dash & Climate Control
"Just some 17 Year old spending every dollar I make on my car."

 

Damon Thanks for the great info, excuse my ignorance, hook up a fuel gauge to the shraider (spell check)valve, what gauge do you have?? and use, is it just your normal type of vac stlye gauge? Also would a AFPR help or is it needeed at all. Its has the SLP chip burned for the 91 model.

Also Iroc that is a stock shifter, I really like the leather boot, I wish it was a rachet type shifer like my old 79 T/A

[This message has been edited by SLP-GTA (edited November 19, 2001).]

 

Actually the 43-45psi is with the vacuum unhooked.... with the vacuum hooked up, which is what it will be when running down the road, it should be about 33-35psi. As you increase your rpms the fuel pressure should gradually go up, NOT stay the same and at WOT the fuel pressure guage should read approx your max fuel pressure of 43-45psi



------------------
1986 Trans AM
355 TPI
4 Wheel Disc Brakes
9 bolt Borg Warner Rear (2.77's....oh joy) :P
6" rods, approx. 9.7:1 Compression, Stock TPI (soon to be ported), 24#/hr LTI injectors (cleaned and flowmatched by Cruizin Performance), Hedman Shorty Headers, 3" exhaust with 80 series flowmaster, SBC 993 heads completely redone and modified for 1.6 RR, 1.52 RR (for now), Comp Cams XE262-14 TPI Cam, Holley AFPR, TPIS airfoil, MSD wires, MSD 6-AL Ignition, Hypertech 53,000 volt coil.

Track times to come.

 

If you're running lean then yes, an AFPR would help out with that. You should hook a VOM to your O2 sensor though and check out your a/f ratio at WOT (should be .800mv - .900mv). That will also help you determine if you're running rich or lean.


------------------
1986 Trans AM
355 TPI
4 Wheel Disc Brakes
9 bolt Borg Warner Rear (2.77's....oh joy) :P
6" rods, approx. 9.7:1 Compression, Stock TPI (soon to be ported), 24#/hr LTI injectors (cleaned and flowmatched by Cruizin Performance), Hedman Shorty Headers, 3" exhaust with 80 series flowmaster, SBC 993 heads completely redone and modified for 1.6 RR, 1.52 RR (for now), Comp Cams XE262-14 TPI Cam, Holley AFPR, TPIS airfoil, MSD wires, MSD 6-AL Ignition, Hypertech 53,000 volt coil.

Track times to come.