84z28350

Just wondering who here is in the 350-400BHP range and whats your setup?

My brain is still going in circles for the new build

Stekman

Not sure what my bhp (I hit the dyno in the spring), but it's in my sig. Not sure I'd follow my route, though.

84z28350

ya im looking to do a 350, i shoulda mentioned that.

Apeiron

At this point, just build anything, even if it's "wrong". If it's your first engine you'll gain valuable experience without losing much if something goes wrong. You can always upgrade.

84z28350

I dont want to put $5k into a motor some volvo station wagon can beat

Tunnel rams no good for a street car?

I want this thing to stick out the hood

DuronClocker

iTrader: (1)

I love my setup and its not even tuned yet.

Mildly ported LT1 heads (52cc, flow 221/180 in the useable lifts...better than LT4 on exhaust side)
LT1 intake drilled for distributor and no EGR
CompCams XE268-14 flat tappet cam (224*/230*, .479/.480 lift, 114* LSA)
LT4 valvesprings
CompCams high-energy 7.800" (? whatever stock is) pushrods
Stock rockers still, traded my 1.6s away for MSD 6AL
SLP 1 3/4" stainless steel headers without AIR setp
3" Hooker Aerochamber exhaust without cat converter
24# injectors with AFPR and guage
Moroso deep-well oilpan
10.5:1 compression

Bottom-end:
70's "010" high-nickel 350 4-bolt block bored .030" over, stock deck
Speed Pro L2256 forged flat-top pistons with 6.1cc valve reliefs
GM "pink" connecting rods with ARP bolts
Eagle lightened cast steel crankshaft with ARP main bolts
Good balancer (fluidamper maybe? I'll check brand)
Clevite 77 bearings throughout if I remember right
Melling high-volume oil pump (not high-pressure)

Once tuned and with new trans and gears, I'm looking for low 12s or better out of it. Car is 325+lbs lighter than stock and will have drag radials with full rear suspension. Either a T-56 or a beefed 700R4 with bigger stall. Depending on transmission, I'll be going with either a 3.73 or 4.10 gear. Want to upgrade the rear to something like a Ford 8.8" or better at the same time.

The heads require modification to work on a stock small block. The intake then only needed to be drilled for distributor as all other conversion stuff had to do with the heads. Uses a remote t-stat housing with a 180*F in it.

Motor setup is great with lots of low-end torque for what I was expecting. I just about picked the perfect cam I think. Maybe could've gone slightly bigger, but for the street, this one is great.

Running on stock TPI computer with the program for an '89 vette. Only thing changed is fan temps and injector constant so far. Car has zero emissions on it.

I hate the deep oilpan. Its about an inch or so lower than my K-member and I'm scared to lower the front of my car at all for fear of tearing my oilpan off on the street.

Next upgrades are installing my MSD 6AL box for upper RPM stuff. It'll complement my Accel supercoil nicely I hope. I also plan to install a rev kit when I take the heads off. I eventually want to get the heads ported by Lloyd Elliott, and at that point the car should be running mid-low 11s with 400rwhp+ all motor. The valvesprings would be replaced along with complete valvetrain. That alone is $1550+shipping though, plus the cost of a new custom cam. I also plan to get a larger throttle body, but that won't be until the head work unless I find a good deal sooner.

EDIT: Sorry, its not exactly dyno-proven on my car, but it is very similar to what many with LT1 4th gen guys run in the areas you're looking for. I'll have #'s when I get around to finishing it before next season and getting it dyno-tuned.

todd200

I'd say I'm in that range. See sig.

dankhound

If you want dyno proven you may want to check out a few of the magazines that are available. Dont pay to much attention to all the frills. Just take a look at what heads, cam, intake, and exhaust they use. Find one you like and duplicate it.

firebird45331

lol I resent that volvo comment. I like my volvo turbo

Trevor86TA

What does your car run???




My details are in the sig:

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

430 at the crank.

5.7" rod 383, 10.25:1, AFR heads, custom ISKY cam (little), Air Gap intake, holley 650 DP.

84z28350

So anyone here run a tunnel ram on a street car?

All of the descriptions say "street rod" and whatnot but then they are 3-8k RPM which doesnt sound too good for a street car. I like the looks of a tunnel ram but im not going to get it if i gotta wind this think up to 5k RPM to make power.

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

See my Signature. With new mods should go well past 400 horsepower at the flywheel.

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

No, for a reason. Not good on a street car. And it'll look stupid sticking up out of a thirdgen

Stekman

A blower with a scoop would look a lot better than a tunnel ram.

But yes, it is possible to make a tunnel ram intake streetable. Small carbs and a lot of tuning make it so. Still, there are probably better options out there.

88IROC350TPI

I dont think you can get more dollar-per-HP than a motor like mine... Very basic 110% street worthy pump gas 350. I havent even begun tuning this motor yet I know I can get atleast a 12.20 out of it on motor and I'm gunning for 11.0-11.20's on a bigger shot of nitrous.

Forget about big motors, fancy aluminum heads, and roller cams - Stick with the basics and you'll fly

DuronClocker

iTrader: (1)

Very similar to what I'm aiming for and a fairly similar setup. You have a tad bigger cam than I do.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-...isdyno2005.jpg

But already more/different than what your after.

I've seen a handful of guys get a tunnel ram, and from real world honest testimonials-since I have'nt ever thought of messing with them no personal expereince-stick with a single plan. You''l make more power, a hellava lot easier to tune and alot less cost...way I see it it's a win win situation with single plenum intake...tunnel rams look cool, but i garuntee you'll be just another one the guys will laugh at since it'll have all that "bling" effect, but go nowhere. IMO opion that is commonly shared, if you have something sticking out of your hood regardless of weather tunnel ram or blower, if your not packing some SERIOUS punch, or you'll look like a chump, but again, that's just my opinion.

I lost count of all the combinations that've been offered already, your at the point now, build it even if it's wrong, time to execute ANY plan at this point LOL

84RIceEater

You can basicaly just get a good Streetable 245 or so HP ratting and have a shot of N20 that will get it to 345 and you'll have good MPG. Stock parts can handle 150 shot, so u are not making "TOO" much cylinder pressure.

Just an idea.


Hey IHI how much did all this cost ya?


86 Firebird, 388 chevy, stock .060 350 block, stock 400 crank, stock 5.7 rods, 11:5.1, Holley 950 HP , Bullet solid roller 255/262 .621/.621 cam, Victor Jr. intake, 2" open spacer, AFR 210 heads, Autolite AR3923 plugs .035 gap, Comp Pro Mag roller rockers, BTE stud girdle, Hooker Super Comp 1 3/4" headers, dual 3" exhaust into Flowmaster 40 series mufflers, 31x19 Howie aluminum radiator, MSD pro billet distributor, Blaster 3 coil, MSD 3step, 8.5 mm MSD wires, Aeromotive A2000 electric fuel pump, 4600 stall, TH400 manual vavlebody/reverse pattern, with JW trans brake, 1350 yoke, B&M Pro Ratchet shifter, Ford 9" w/ 4.11 gears 1350 yoke disc brakes, Spohn tubular LCA, Jegster adjustable torque arm, Lakewood 50/50 rear shocks, rear Wolfe Craft Anti-Roll bar, Lakewood 90/10 Darg struts, Moroso trick springs, Weld Draglites 15x5 front 205/75-15 radials, 15x10's 5.5" BS with Hoosier Quik Time Pro DOT slicks 28x11.5, interior from 98 firebird retro-fitted with full Auto Meter Phantom gauges.


Sounds like my dream setup.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I think 88iroctpi has it bang on there.

PS. That's a gorgeous car. I love it. What size are those rear tires?

is that actually on TPI?

I kinda think a 274 cam is slightly high for street, 268 being my personal choice, but only experience will teach me...


84, build something with somewhat cheap parts, any big money you spend, spend it on the parts you can re-use (so not like pistons, but on an intake manifold, or headers or...)
*** forbid, nitrous....
uh oh, now I planted another power idea in your head....

84z28350

I wouldnt mind throwing a bottle in this thing once its done but im 99% sure theirs nowhere to get a tank filled up here.

I agree on tunnel rams not being a street piece as i am yet to ever see one on the streets yet. Maybe my brain will go back in the 6-71 blower loop to keep something sticking out the hood

Damn these loops, i think im going to shoot myself....

Maybe ill keep it simple with a forged 350 rotating assy, some semi-cheap iron heads and a 6-71 blower. That should be able to blow the rear end apart


Edit: Yes i did plan on blowing big $$ on AFR heads for reuse on future builds but that would bring up the $$ fast with a blower.

Irockz

iTrader: (1)

Do you paln on daily driving and dependability out of this car?

If so,get all those silly ideas about blowers and tunnel rams outta your head.Before You drop a ton of cash on a completely unreliable engine that is mearly a bottle rocket waiting to pop.

Read articles on camshaft science.Not on what makes them go rumpity rump,but also how camshaft duration,lift,and timing events affect the engine.

Just my two pennies,but if your gonna put miles on the car,buy the good heads,keep compression 10.5 or lower,do some homework on your camshaft,and if your staying sane on the combo,run a Performer RPM or Stealth dual plane intake,followed by full length headers and a good exhaust.

If you cant make 425hp outta that in this day and time,your a tofu eatin' weanie.

After you've got this all lined out and in tune,if you still want more,go for a centrifical blower,they are MUCH more practical.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Well...the spring I made the descion to "upgrade" into a faster combination that would live I had $10K budgeted, started in early Feb and had it all done-WITH NO BUGS if you can believe that-and ready for race day Apri 1st. That was replacing everything from the radiator back to the rear diff. Made sure everytning behind motor was as bullet proof as possible and fell short on short block money....motor I had a whoop'n $3500 in the entire thing.

Worst part is I have to keep all the receipts for tax write offs for my business and to date I have over $40K spent on that thing from date of purchase 4 yrs ago....that's why I get so bummed thinking back knowing what I know now all the money and time I could've saved doing what I have now the first time. Only good thing out the whole deal is since I literally bought all my new parts I have first hand experience with many of the common things that get asked about on here. First year I got the car, 3 intakes, 7 carbs, 2 tranny's, 2 convertors, 2 gear sets, 2 different brake options out back, etc...and the list goes on I look at what i got and am sick having spent that much coin to only be where I'm at.

That's why it's cheaper to buy somebody elses project that's already done....hard part is having that amount of cash on hand when the time comes. alot easier spending on average $10K a year since it's just little amounts here and there so you dont thin kabout it.

Vader

Finally, someone making some sense. I had a 355, just a tad under 11:1, Performer, Holley 4160, heavily ported heads, big valves, good springs, reasonable cam, 1-3/4" long headers, balanced cast bottom end, and it made 423 HP at the crank on the old Borg/Warner electrodynamic dyno. It needed 96 octane or had to have the timing retarded to run on less on the street. I drove it to shows, not on a trailer.

It's not difficult to do. It's even easier these days with the benefit of improved roller cam designs.

84z28350

Well i do put quite a few miles on the car in the summer, i believe i put on just under 20,000km this summer before i parked it last week. Their is another camaro down the road for $1k i might pick it up to us as a daily driver to work and back and use my current camaro for a weekend machine.

So 100% reliability is not an issue with the car, I have other things to get me to work. I plan on running 91octane or a 91 and AvGas mix in the car so i dont want to go overly crazy on the compression especially if i get a blower.

Damn now my heads going in circles again, but its in the $30k all out drag car loop now. Someone shoot me...

Trevor86TA

Drag car....what all is up there for tracks?

Apeiron

Who needs a track when the lake is frozen over perfectly flat 10 months a year?

Stekman

Now THAT would be fun. 500 hp or so and a bunch of ice....

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Cant remember what show I watched, but it was up north somewhere's, they'd have what is essentially an autocross course set-up on the frozen lakes and they'd have different classes, stock, modified, unlimited...most of the entries were all jeeps and all had in the neighborhood of 120+ carbides per wheel!!! They showed the unlimited class which indeed had 500hp and those things just ripped, literally cornered like they were on rails!!

Said it took about a week to stud one tire if I remember correctly-40hrs per tire is what they compared it to. Not really my cup of tea, but suppose if I lived in the middle of nowhere where cold, snow, and ice were normalities, that would be a kick butt thing to drive

84z28350

I think i have seen the same show your talking about, for some reason i thought it was down south somewhere...


As for a track, i would have to haul the car to the Edmonton track. Me and a few friends are looking into getting a small piece of land and making a strip up here which would be really nice but probably wont happen for a while.

Another thing we had in mind was a piece of road just out of town, its about 2km of the straightest flattest pavement i have ever seen. We were thinking of making up a temporary tree we could easily set up in a few minutes and have some sort of system for measuring the times and speed. i dont know if this would work very long, probably a few weeks till the RCMP caught on to whats goin on

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I have 300 at the wheels through cut-outs with a 305. Does that count. General specs are in the signature. Follow the link for more details.
Specs

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

up north, down south, depends on where you are I guess.
I have got to see that show.

yea, might as well forget about it being a track car, or a dyno proven car (since I imagine it would be just as hard to find one of those in your neck of the woods), just build something scary fast and tell people it's 400HP. Very few people will ask if that's at the crank or wheels, they'll just smile.

buddy next door who owns the autoparts store had a 351C on his store floor. I asked him about it, he said it was going in his ranchero. I said, oh yea, cool, what cam do you have in it? He said, uhh, it's a comp cams. That's all he knew. sigh.
I don't think you have a whole ton of competition for being the fastest up there (do you?)

84z28350

Well so far im about #3 on the list, Theirs a blown foxbody that runs around here every blue moon and theirs no doubt he would probably eat me alive but ive never been able to get him to go for a run. Then theirs this 04 f150 5.4 with a supercharger i gave it a hell of a good run for the money but it got me on top speed. Then theirs about 200 lil fart cannon cars below me.

Dyno, whats a dyno?

Probably have to haul it to Edmonton for that too.

firebird45331

if you ran with a f150 lightening then you're probably close to 400 hp now. I love fox body stangs they're a hoot in the 1/4.