WhiteKnight

So on and off throughout the summer, I've been having the engine light come up every now and then. Checked and it was codes 15 & 34. It has increased in it frequency and within the last couple days the light has begun to come on 3-4 times on my 15 minute ride home from work. Any suggestions on how to handle these codes? I found some info on 34 (MAF voltage low), but not on 15 (coolant temp. sensor voltage high.)

I'd never felt a difference until a couple days ago when the light started comming on much more often. Now the car feels underpowered so I think its time to tackle the problem. Any suggestions on what to do or is it simply a matter of replacing the parts in question?

Thanks

redbird_400

That sounds pretty close the the error that I had with the knock sensor then the TPS sensor. When the check engine light came on the computer readjusted my timing and made the engine run like krap. I replaced every sensor that had to do with those errors and still had the same problem. I even took the knock sensor out, wrapped it with a blue paper towel and sent it aside where it wouldnt read any knock coming from the engine (not sure if it needed some kind of signal from the engine) and still had the same problem. Took it to the dealership as a last resort and had them run a diagnostics test just to tell me they wanted to try and replace the sensors at some 300.00 price for some of the sensors. NO! I paid them 75.00 for the diagnostics and drove out of there. All of this hard work to decide on an easy fix. Go with a carb, new distributor, and a different intake manifold to match up with my carb. Oh lets not forget the most enjoyable part, cutting the wire to the check engine light. I left the computer in there because things like the speedometer gauges work off of it, though I really wanted to smash it up with a sledge hammer.... Well I can say that the car runs different with the carb, I've seen better days with the FI because of the transmission kickdown at accurate shift points but overall performace and maintenence, the carb gives less problems to me personally. I really love the way that the carb sounds over the FI. So either way you want to go, troubleshooting then repair, or just repair. If the sensors you have now test ok at the parts store then look into getting things like an accel distributor and maybe the 300.00 road demon, they say it works great for a 305 or stock 350. Thats what I would do because I'm not one for a computer controlling my car.

WhiteKnight

Well I don't have a bunch of money to be buying switching over to a carb setup.... does anyone have any other suggestions. Maybe I'll just borrow a friend's MAF for a day or two to see if that fixes the problem, or at least the code 34. Maybe its my ECM thats messed up and thats giving me both codes.

codemonk84

*cough* what did you come up with? Since mine's doing the exact same thing right now :P

codemonk84

Well I think I found the problem on mine...I've found thus far, two vacuum leaks, my EGR valve disconnected and lying there (I put it back on...I think it got knocked off when someone was replacing my air pump).

So two vacuum leaks in hoses, another hose that hooks to something but I'm not sure what yet.

So if your car starts throwing both those codes, perhaps a vacuum leak is your culprit. Always good to check at least.

Update to come once I finish replacing some hoses and find out where the last one hooks to.

EDIT: it goes to the carb...all fixed ^_^