simon

I had coolant leaking from behind the starter, so I figured it must be coming out of the freeze plug. I have to drop the Y-pipe to remove my starter and in the process broke the end of the bolt off. Any ideas on how I can fix this? Or do I have to buy a whole new manifold and risk snapping more bolts off in the head?

TransamGTA350

iTrader: (2)

Been there, done that. No fun, Sometimes you can get lucky if there is a little bit of the stud sticking out with some penetrating oil and vise grips. Usually not. I have usually ended up removing the manifold and drilling and tapping a new hole and putting in new studs. I've never broken a manifold to head bolt, but it still can happen. Just be careful.

When you get the manifold off, grind both sides of the broken stud level with the manifold and drill a pilot hole in the middle of the stud. Get a new stud at an auto parts store and figure out what thread it is and use the correct size drill. Sorry, can't remember off hand. It's been a while. Then tap the hole and put the new stud in. If the other studs don't look so good, I would replace those too. You may be able to let them soak in penetrating oil for a few days and use vise grips. Good luck.

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89 Transam GTA, 350TPI, auto, 3.27 rear, dual cats, gray.
Magnaflow cat-back,
K&N open element,
Best E.T. 14.63@95mph

Danger

Bad luck dude. My intake manifold bolt broke last night and I thought no way that suckers coming out. I soaked it in Wd40 and did some other work and soaked it again. Then got vise grips on it real tight and tryed moving it back and forward until the grips slipped. Soaked it again and next time I'm sure it moved slightly. Then all of a sudden it came out. Just have to get that WD40 down the threads. Great stuff.
Good luck.


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84 Trans Am HO L69 WS6
5 Speed manual
Vortech Cherrybomb no cat
Removed A/C A.I.R. Hdflap
H/made cld air induction
K&N
Otherwise STD
Currently painting

mean 5.7

sounds like a great reason to install headers to me. Just kidding but when mine broke replacing the starter thats what i did

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87 gta 5.7ltr
edelbrock headers
gutted cat
flowmaster 3in drivers exit
8.8mm wires/accel
accel 300+digital ignition system
msd pro billet distributer
hypertech stage 2 racing chip
slp cold air intake
maf has no screens
52mm bbk throttle body
extruded plenum, runners, intake all matched
high flow fuel pump
afpr @ 50 psi
ALL MODS DONE BY ME FOR ME
waiting on hotchkis rear susp package
and sfc before i run hard at track

simon

Theres actually alot of the thread left - it broke off flush with the Y-pipe flange. Its just rusted pretty bad. I bet I could put two nuts on the remaining threads and back it out? I assuming the stud is threaded normally - meaning I turn it counter-clockwise to loosen. When you guys said you used vise grips was that from under the car or did you still have to pull the manifold off. This is on my pass. side. Once I broke the one I stopped and bought some of that PB Blaster and sprayed it on the remaining three and let it soak in. So what do you think - I still have to pull the manifold off either way to get the stud out?

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89 RS V8,Borg-Warner 9-Bolt rear,Open element,Flowmaster.

[This message has been edited by simon (edited October 25, 2001).]

RB83L69

Since you've already done the hard part - disconnected the Y-pipe from the manifold - you might find it just as easy to pop the manifold off.

Use stainless steel nuts to put it together next time, to avoid this in the future.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

CamaroZ_85

Another vote for PB Blaster...I think it's 10 times better than WD40. Hasn't failed me yet, I've never snapped a brake line or a bolt since i started using this stuff.

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85 Z28- 350, Comp 262, Edelbrock Performer intake, Edelbrock 600 cfm carb and Edelbrock cat back, Summit headers and vette servo
-JVC, Eclipse, Pioneer, MTX, Phoenix Gold, Planet Audio

simon

You're probably right about the manifold, Its just that I cringe at the thought of the exhaust bolt snapping off at the head - it would just be my luck. Also, do they make stainles steel studs - so I'll be sure never to have this problem again? All this because of one freeze plug - doh!

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89 RS V8,Borg-Warner 9-Bolt rear,Open element,Flowmaster.

Nordbert

PB Blaster... good stuff. I also use a
product called Free All. I would remove the manifold and heat the area around the bolt
then I would spray penetrant on the bolt.
The penetrant will wick through the rust
and help to loosen its grip on the stud. Caution: If the metal is TOO hot it could
ignite the spray penetrant!! Then I would
give the end of the stud a few whacks with
a hammer and unscrew the stud with a pair
of Vise-Grip locking pliers (10" w/curved
jaws).

iroc5speed

I love PB Blaster, highly recommend. About broken bolt heads...it happens to all of us at one time or another. I had a carb stud(brand new, stainless steel) just break off in the manifold, no threads sticking out. Well it only took a little bit of time and I got it out with an easy out kit from sears. You drill a smaller hole in the bolt and then use the asy out tool with left hand threads and as you tighten it the bolt come right out...very handy to have for situations such as these, I bought the whole set, with 5 bits and 5 ez outs...

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'86 IROC 5-speed
305 LG4
edelbrock performer rpm intake
edelbrock 600 cfm carb
msd pro billet hei distributer
'95 3.23 rearend
hotchkis rear suspension
PST front polygraphite suspension
"speed kills. buy a f@&d, live forever."

rezinn

Im another PB Blaster user. Before installing my headers I sprayed that yellow stuff all over the bolts and let it sit for a night. Every bolt came out easily.