Vortec setup slow for my 1/4 time
#1
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Vortec setup slow for my 1/4 time
I just got my car done so I went to the track yesterday.
my time was 14.5946 1/4
my mods are
350
upgraded and ported vortec heads
vortec intake
1.6 rockers
eldelbrock headers
catback
hardended pushrods
aftermarket lifters
hot cam
afpr
asm runners
What should i do next the trany, shift kit, 2200 stall?
my time was 14.5946 1/4
my mods are
350
upgraded and ported vortec heads
vortec intake
1.6 rockers
eldelbrock headers
catback
hardended pushrods
aftermarket lifters
hot cam
afpr
asm runners
What should i do next the trany, shift kit, 2200 stall?
#7
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Have you had a custom eprom burned for your car? You need someone to datalog your car and customize the tune accordingly. Your times are slow for your mods
no has stock computer. Well guess find someone to do it?
no has stock computer. Well guess find someone to do it?
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#8
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Car: 88 5.7 Iroc, 2000 SS
Engine: Vortec Hot cam TPI/LS1
Transmission: Pro-Built/T-56
I have a similar combo,
if you are running a stock chip and injectors, you have big problems- you can get away with 22lb stock injectors, but are probably starving the motor,
Check you're base timing, air leaks, are your valves adjusted properly, did you break it in right?
It took me close to 6 months to get my car sorted out - total pain in the butt$$. ( working on it occaisionally on week nights and every other weekend)
it sucked at first, I was really dissappointed, but once I got it strait, it was worth the wait,
right now I have a gremlin ( Shorted ground somewhere) but I have driven it tuned for about 1 year and I can tell you it is great
you should be able to get down to low , low 13s - check everything, and get it tuned now- a vortec will run horrible on a stock tune - you are giving up alot of power - they will not run right anywhere in the powerband with a stock tune - it may seem as if it's ok - but it really isn't anything like what it could be.
my car went from having a soft/ weak low end, an ok mid, and an weak topend pull - to a barking torqey low end , to a very strong mid, and a top that pulls cleanly to 6K
a tuned vortec is like night and day- seriouly on a stock tune it will not even be as strong as your car was stock maybe a little stonger but maybe not, the difference is that dramatic,
a bolt on L98 ( even cammed), will get it's butt kicked by a vortec that is tuned properly - on the freeway flat out , I pulled a guy with a very aggressive sounding L98 by about 8~10 car lengths until I gave up
ps - don't use PCM for less - they're chip guy sucks- and they rip you off., my car didn't run at all off they're chip.
if you are running a stock chip and injectors, you have big problems- you can get away with 22lb stock injectors, but are probably starving the motor,
Check you're base timing, air leaks, are your valves adjusted properly, did you break it in right?
It took me close to 6 months to get my car sorted out - total pain in the butt$$. ( working on it occaisionally on week nights and every other weekend)
it sucked at first, I was really dissappointed, but once I got it strait, it was worth the wait,
right now I have a gremlin ( Shorted ground somewhere) but I have driven it tuned for about 1 year and I can tell you it is great
you should be able to get down to low , low 13s - check everything, and get it tuned now- a vortec will run horrible on a stock tune - you are giving up alot of power - they will not run right anywhere in the powerband with a stock tune - it may seem as if it's ok - but it really isn't anything like what it could be.
my car went from having a soft/ weak low end, an ok mid, and an weak topend pull - to a barking torqey low end , to a very strong mid, and a top that pulls cleanly to 6K
a tuned vortec is like night and day- seriouly on a stock tune it will not even be as strong as your car was stock maybe a little stonger but maybe not, the difference is that dramatic,
a bolt on L98 ( even cammed), will get it's butt kicked by a vortec that is tuned properly - on the freeway flat out , I pulled a guy with a very aggressive sounding L98 by about 8~10 car lengths until I gave up
ps - don't use PCM for less - they're chip guy sucks- and they rip you off., my car didn't run at all off they're chip.
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Car: 88 5.7 Iroc, 2000 SS
Engine: Vortec Hot cam TPI/LS1
Transmission: Pro-Built/T-56
Oh yeah,
If you're tranny is old, this motor will make enough HP/TQ to kill it pretty quick.
I have a probuilt with a 2200 stall, it has held up well so far.
and also a stock 700R4 will get torn up in a hurry, what I'm saying is in the future plan on an upgraded tranny, front brakes.
If you're tranny is old, this motor will make enough HP/TQ to kill it pretty quick.
I have a probuilt with a 2200 stall, it has held up well so far.
and also a stock 700R4 will get torn up in a hurry, what I'm saying is in the future plan on an upgraded tranny, front brakes.
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thanks for the info! get chip burn then injectors what brand did you go with
Fuel pressure was 40 psi stock then got performance one bump it to 48psi? sounds right?
Fuel pressure was 40 psi stock then got performance one bump it to 48psi? sounds right?
#11
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Car: 88 Trans Am
Engine: 5.7 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
I have driven this car. His transmission was shifting very slow.
Now he is wrapped up in getting bigger injectors because he thinks that is the problem since it was mentioned once in here.
Please help me convience him to get the chip burned and at least a shift kit before he even worries about the injectors...
Now he is wrapped up in getting bigger injectors because he thinks that is the problem since it was mentioned once in here.
Please help me convience him to get the chip burned and at least a shift kit before he even worries about the injectors...
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Car: 88 5.7 Iroc, 2000 SS
Engine: Vortec Hot cam TPI/LS1
Transmission: Pro-Built/T-56
Check this out - Adjusting you're FP is just a band aid fix, really won't solve any of you're problems.
When you get a chip burned it needs to have the injector constant match the lb/hr rating of your injectors - this is one of the purposes of having the chip burnt, along with adjusting the fuel and timing curve.
I have 24lb/hr Ford motorsports SVO injectors, they seem to work fine.
hate to say it but you really need to adress your car from a systems standpoint. everything is related to one another, the chip and injectors go ahnd in hand with setting up and tuning the car right-
it's always better to tune a car with the programming vs adjusting fuel pressure. You can do both but make sure who ever burns your chips is aware that you are changing your FP.
if your running a stock chip you could easily be losing a second off your 1/4 mi, along with a fading tranny you can start to see where you are off quite a bit- fix these - and anything else - and you will see a totally different vehicle. no kidding
When you get a chip burned it needs to have the injector constant match the lb/hr rating of your injectors - this is one of the purposes of having the chip burnt, along with adjusting the fuel and timing curve.
I have 24lb/hr Ford motorsports SVO injectors, they seem to work fine.
hate to say it but you really need to adress your car from a systems standpoint. everything is related to one another, the chip and injectors go ahnd in hand with setting up and tuning the car right-
it's always better to tune a car with the programming vs adjusting fuel pressure. You can do both but make sure who ever burns your chips is aware that you are changing your FP.
if your running a stock chip you could easily be losing a second off your 1/4 mi, along with a fading tranny you can start to see where you are off quite a bit- fix these - and anything else - and you will see a totally different vehicle. no kidding
#13
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Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
In my 89 I was running super ram , TF heads, LT4 cam and STOCK 22lbs injectors, STOCK chip and STOCK stall and ran a 13.4@104. Its not his tune. Its a MAF setup. Its not an optimal tune but not that bad.
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Car: '89 Trans Am GTA
Engine: TPI350
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: BW 3.27s
I think your current injectors could support your setup, but you've gotta get a new chip burnt. DIY is the way I'd go, in case you get bigger injectors in the future you'd be able to change that in your chip easily. But if you get a chip done for you, either get the injectors at the same time or get the chip from someone who will reburn it for you for free (or cheap).
Definately get your setup working properly before you start to dump more into performance parts when they might make your car run worse.
Definately get your setup working properly before you start to dump more into performance parts when they might make your car run worse.
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Car: 88 5.7 Iroc, 2000 SS
Engine: Vortec Hot cam TPI/LS1
Transmission: Pro-Built/T-56
Guys,
WHo is saying "not his Tune"
Sorry, vortec's like pretty much no more than 28~32 deg total timing at WOT, a stock chip has like 42 deg, an ARAP has like over 50Deg total timing, plus on the bottom the timing requirement is totally different as well.
Vortec's are a true "fast burn" style chamber Trick flows and vortecs are totally different heads- can't compare them - only onflow maybe
If you have ever seen a vortec timing and fueling curve, it is like the inverse of a L98 timing curve, way more fuel and timing on the bottom, very little timing on top.
I have a vortec set up can can tell you, once I put in my stock chip just for giggles, and the thing barely ran, especially with the hotcam, the car ran alright on the ARAP bin, but nothing like it runs now that I had Turbo city tune it.. made it a whole different car- just talking from experience - remeber-I have this set up-
I'm not one to promote anything- to each his own - but take good advice - the car will not run good as is- a 14.6 proves it- tune it damit!-and yes my car is a maf.
WHo is saying "not his Tune"
Sorry, vortec's like pretty much no more than 28~32 deg total timing at WOT, a stock chip has like 42 deg, an ARAP has like over 50Deg total timing, plus on the bottom the timing requirement is totally different as well.
Vortec's are a true "fast burn" style chamber Trick flows and vortecs are totally different heads- can't compare them - only onflow maybe
If you have ever seen a vortec timing and fueling curve, it is like the inverse of a L98 timing curve, way more fuel and timing on the bottom, very little timing on top.
I have a vortec set up can can tell you, once I put in my stock chip just for giggles, and the thing barely ran, especially with the hotcam, the car ran alright on the ARAP bin, but nothing like it runs now that I had Turbo city tune it.. made it a whole different car- just talking from experience - remeber-I have this set up-
I'm not one to promote anything- to each his own - but take good advice - the car will not run good as is- a 14.6 proves it- tune it damit!-and yes my car is a maf.
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Car: 88 5.7 Iroc, 2000 SS
Engine: Vortec Hot cam TPI/LS1
Transmission: Pro-Built/T-56
Oh yeah, mko 1980
13.4 for a cammed 383 super ram speaks for itself, yeah you have a stock chip , and that is the slowest time I've heard of for that much motor - your easily giving up 1/2 second on your stock chip - why would you give that advice?
13.4 for a cammed 383 super ram speaks for itself, yeah you have a stock chip , and that is the slowest time I've heard of for that much motor - your easily giving up 1/2 second on your stock chip - why would you give that advice?
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Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
I also have a friend who is also on this board running identical mods on his 91 with stock chip and injectors. Hes at 13.6 currently. Not good but better.
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Car: 88 5.7 Iroc, 2000 SS
Engine: Vortec Hot cam TPI/LS1
Transmission: Pro-Built/T-56
It's just suprising that you guys seem to encourage building motors and not tuning them.
A 383 will starve with 22lb injectors, yes it will run, of course. probably seems real crisp because it's so lean. a383 with a SR and a cam really needs like 30lb injectors to run right and not max out the duty cycle of the injector, 24s could get you by- shoot just get some used LT-1 injectors - you would be better off
a 383SR should see 12's, even if you have a new motor- it's not finnished until you get it programmed, if you have a cam over 220deg duration, a 112 or tighter lobe separation, much over .500 lift, and more displacement, and an intake - come on - a stock chip was never meant to deal with that, or stock injectors.
yeah these cars are faster, but probably way down on what they could be - most folks on this board will agree- things need to be tuned-
Are you hooking a scan tool up to these? what are you're blm's throughout the rpm range?
A 383 will starve with 22lb injectors, yes it will run, of course. probably seems real crisp because it's so lean. a383 with a SR and a cam really needs like 30lb injectors to run right and not max out the duty cycle of the injector, 24s could get you by- shoot just get some used LT-1 injectors - you would be better off
a 383SR should see 12's, even if you have a new motor- it's not finnished until you get it programmed, if you have a cam over 220deg duration, a 112 or tighter lobe separation, much over .500 lift, and more displacement, and an intake - come on - a stock chip was never meant to deal with that, or stock injectors.
yeah these cars are faster, but probably way down on what they could be - most folks on this board will agree- things need to be tuned-
Are you hooking a scan tool up to these? what are you're blm's throughout the rpm range?
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Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
I agree on all of that. My only statement was that it should be faster even with the stock chip. Yes itsnot opimal. But on my old combo I was seeing BLM's around the 130 area cruising and about 123 at idle and 02's at wot about .890 I wasnt getting any knock retard and was pounding down 25MPG. I even took it on the power tour and drove flawlessly for 3000 miles back on the 2003 run.
With the new motor now I have 30lbs'ers and a moderate spark curve. I left idle, startup and maf tables stock. Other then that , thats about it. No times yet though
With the new motor now I have 30lbs'ers and a moderate spark curve. I left idle, startup and maf tables stock. Other then that , thats about it. No times yet though
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Car: '88 Formula, '94 Corvette, '95 Bird
Engine: LC9, LT1
Transmission: TKX, 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.23
Originally posted by Kennerz
most folks on this board will agree- things need to be tuned-
most folks on this board will agree- things need to be tuned-
I know my motor won't even make it accross the parking lot with a stock tune. I dunno how some of these guys pull off daily duty.
-- Joe
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