600 HP N/A street car for $10,000
#1
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Car: 2007 Corvette Z06
Engine: LS7
Transmission: 6 speed
600 HP N/A street car for $10,000
383 ci, big AFR heads or some race ported heads(~$2000+). Arao 32valve heads($5400). EFI LT1/miniram, DFI/custom prom, probably solid/hydraulic roller,big exhaust hooker LT, Heddman Husler, Stahl, true dual 3" (or more)"is it possible to go bigger?" through mufflers. I'm not talking well manored, but a street car, drive it everyday, A/C maybe(header problems?) That's 10 Gs for the engine/exhaust alone, forget suspension or drivetrain to handle it. Is it possible N/A?
#2
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I would say probably not doable with that budget..at least not EFI, and certainly not with a stroked 350. Say $2000 or so for DFI..another $1-2000 for intake...$2k or so in heads...doesn't leave you enough for the bottem end and all the trimmings it would take.
#5
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get the merlin 540 with 900 hp for $10,000. Then figure out a way to make it hook up(new tranny, rear, suspension, wheelie bars,huge drag radials...
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'86 IROC 5-speed
305 LG4
edelbrock performer rpm intake
edelbrock 600 cfm carb
msd pro billet hei distributer
'95 3.23 rearend
hotchkis rear suspension
PST front polygraphite suspension
"speed kills. buy a f@&d, live forever."
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'86 IROC 5-speed
305 LG4
edelbrock performer rpm intake
edelbrock 600 cfm carb
msd pro billet hei distributer
'95 3.23 rearend
hotchkis rear suspension
PST front polygraphite suspension
"speed kills. buy a f@&d, live forever."
#6
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iTrader: (4)
A buddy of mine built a 562 Merlin for his 74 Camaro. That thing was BADASS! 864 hp AT THE WHEELS! He's not donw with it yet, though. The first time he drove it, the rear axle blew right out of the car! He's thinking of selling it for $20,000, nice complete car(except for rear axle. Haha).
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1975 Firebird - Pontiac 350, TH350, 27k original miles, rustbucket, ongoing resto project
1992 Firebird - 305 TBI, 700R4, sport appearance package, t-tops, flaming red, 89k miles, Weiand 360 air cleaner assembly, CAT Power Engine Parts race underdrive pulleys, more to come....
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1975 Firebird - Pontiac 350, TH350, 27k original miles, rustbucket, ongoing resto project
1992 Firebird - 305 TBI, 700R4, sport appearance package, t-tops, flaming red, 89k miles, Weiand 360 air cleaner assembly, CAT Power Engine Parts race underdrive pulleys, more to come....
#7
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Car: 2007 Corvette Z06
Engine: LS7
Transmission: 6 speed
Why should a short block be so expensive? You can shoot me down on this one, I can handle it. Speedomotive sportsman, $2150, comes with JE forged pistons, +150 piston coating, +150 damper, +~50 timing chain, +150 H2O pump, +80 oil pump, +260 camshaft, +~150 oil pan/timing cover, stock roller lifters or +260 for solid rollers, +80 gaskets, +175 shipping. that's about $3650, tell me what else i'm missing?? heads/valvetrain ~$2000, exhaust ~$1000, fuel(inj/pump/lines) >$1000, ported LT1/throttle body etc $1000, tunning=me +$500 ~$9,000, What am i missing? And why would i want to do this instead of stock block w/heads and cam, big exhaust and big blower like $4000+ ATI D-series kit?
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#8
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Big HP with small cubic inches and streetable have their limits. The easiest way to have high HP and streetable is with a big engine. You're not going to see a 400-500 HP N/A V6 being streetable so why should you see a 600 hp 383? Why not a 300 HP streetable I4?
The easiest way to calculate streetable HP for an engine is 1 hp per cid. 1.2:1 is starting to push the limits.
And like the guy's 74. having 600+ HP doesn't mean you can get it to the ground. Streetable should also mean no more than 92 pump gas and doesn't require any more maintanence than checking the oil regularly.
When I first built my BBC I was expecting about $5000 Canadian. By the time I was done and the engine was in the car I was up to $8000. It's not the big parts that are expensive but all the nickle and dime stuff you don't think about. Trying to build a high HP engine shouldn't be using any factory parts, fasteners etc.
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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block (times are for the current engine)
Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586
Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
The easiest way to calculate streetable HP for an engine is 1 hp per cid. 1.2:1 is starting to push the limits.
And like the guy's 74. having 600+ HP doesn't mean you can get it to the ground. Streetable should also mean no more than 92 pump gas and doesn't require any more maintanence than checking the oil regularly.
When I first built my BBC I was expecting about $5000 Canadian. By the time I was done and the engine was in the car I was up to $8000. It's not the big parts that are expensive but all the nickle and dime stuff you don't think about. Trying to build a high HP engine shouldn't be using any factory parts, fasteners etc.
------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block (times are for the current engine)
Best ET on a time slip: 11.447 altitude corrected to 10.99
Best MPH on a time slip: 119.42 altitude corrected to 124.86
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 493
Best 60 foot: 1.586
Racing at 3500 feet elevation with a typical race day over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
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