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Valve tick. Anything other than cam going bad?

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Old 02-11-2008 | 10:48 AM
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From: Port Colborne, ON CA
Re: Update

Originally Posted by Tom 400 CFI
Well the cam wasn't "wiping a lobe", cause it continued to run great, and I've now sold the car. The new owner drove it about 2000+ miles to it's new home (achieving OVER 22mpg), and there were no valve related issues. I still can't believe I never figured out:

*The #6 tick
*The #8 wacky geometry
*The BRAND OF ROCKERS! I mean...has no one on here seen these before??

Oh well. That chapter in my car-life history is now closed. On to a Corvette....

-Tom
I know this is an old thread, but I have answers..LOL. I bought the car, and eventually replaced the cam setup with a CompCam XE 270HR roller cam setup. The setup dynoed at 310 RWHP @ 5500 RPM, 342 RWTQ @ 4000 RPM with 300 RWTQ from 2800 to 5500 RPM.

The original problem with #6 & #8 were due to bad lifters. The #8 geometry was due to the lifter losing it's "C" clip and the "guts" pushing out further...meaning it could have exploded at any time..LOL.

The rockers are Cranes.
Old 02-11-2008 | 11:31 AM
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From: Park City, UT
Car: '92 Corvette, '89 1/2-a-'Vette
Engine: LT1, L98
Transmission: ZF6, ZF6
Axle/Gears: 3.45, 3.31
Re: Valve tick. Anything other than cam going bad?

That's crazy about the lifters...especially #8. I used to pull that thing to 7k (on the factory tach) all the time! I can't believe it held together....in fact, I can't believe that the parts of the lifter didn't fall out when I pulled the rocker and push rod.

Nice to post some closure to this thread! How's the paint coming?
Old 02-11-2008 | 01:27 PM
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From: Port Colborne, ON CA
Re: Valve tick. Anything other than cam going bad?

I remember when I took the intake off, the plunger was about 1/8" from the top of the lifter (unloaded).

Also, as an FYI, when I tore into the motor this winter, it is a 2-bolt block, not 4, and I can confirm the pistons are indeed -18cc as I measured them. There is now almost 25k miles since it was rebuilt and the cylinders still look in good shape. I got the Trick Flow heads rebuilt, resurfaced, and flow tested (Result here). I'm also using a thin .021" head gasket which should bump compression up to about 8.8. Still not great but I had to replace the gaskets anyhow. I also replaced the clutch with a Stage 3 Competition Clutch (PIC & PIC).

As it stands now; Engine bay, door jams, door frame, and interior of rear hatch is painted. Engine went in yesterday, and 95% of the engine bay is back together again, including a new A/C evaporator core. I've decided to get that A/C going for this season. As much as I like to pop the T-tops off when it's nice out, it's also nice to have A/C when there's a 40C humidex, or going on the highway for an extend period of time. The wind noise gets annoying.

Engine Bay: http://www.rbvracing.com/gallery2/ma...g2_itemId=1832
Side View: http://www.rbvracing.com/gallery2/ma...g2_itemId=1839
Front: http://www.rbvracing.com/gallery2/ma...g2_itemId=1842

The Eibach springs are also installed now. I still have to run the plumbing and electrical for the Mallory electric fuel pump out back.

We're going to finish the sanding this week, and next weekend, the rest of the paint is going on it.

Everything is on schedule to be ready for Performance World on March 14 which I'm registered to be in.
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