help removing distributer hold down bolt
#1
help removing distributer hold down bolt
ok, i tried using a 9/16 wrench, and it started to strip the bolt, because of the angle. so i went to pep boys, got some swivels for my ratchet, that didn't even work, couldn't turn the bolt. so my question is, what do u guys use to take that bolt out? what do i need to buy?
#3
if its starting to strip it, try using the box end of the 9/16 wrench.
the actual distributor wrench is the easiest way.
the dizzy wrench doesn't fit with my stealthram, so i just use a 9/16 open end and lay it as flat as i can on the valve cover. it works fine for me, doesn't strip it at all
the actual distributor wrench is the easiest way.
the dizzy wrench doesn't fit with my stealthram, so i just use a 9/16 open end and lay it as flat as i can on the valve cover. it works fine for me, doesn't strip it at all
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 878
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: 89' Iroc-Z G92
Engine: TPI 305 G92
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Limited 9 bolt, 3.45
its 5 bucks for a set if that, [edit] they sell them at any auto parts store with a tool section
Last edited by Mcdamit; 07-25-2005 at 09:30 PM.
Trending Topics
#9
Supreme Member
![](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/ranks/tgo10.gif)
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Posts: 4,671
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
You can either get the kit from summir or jegs that has the quick start nub on the end of the stuf, the stud itself will just thread into the existing hole, then you'll use the nut to actually tighten down the clamp down.
Or you could get a longer grade 8 bolt, cut the head off and thread it down into the hole and "make" your own stud, just be sure it sticks up above the intake about 1".
The actual stud lits are cheap enough and only take 3 days to get in, I still run just a standard bolt, but our other car uses the stud. Personally dont hve a preference to either since once the timing is set, I dont worry ever again.
Or you could get a longer grade 8 bolt, cut the head off and thread it down into the hole and "make" your own stud, just be sure it sticks up above the intake about 1".
The actual stud lits are cheap enough and only take 3 days to get in, I still run just a standard bolt, but our other car uses the stud. Personally dont hve a preference to either since once the timing is set, I dont worry ever again.
#10
ok, one more question, is this what i need?
distributor wrench?
distributor wrench?
#14
Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: milwaukee Wi
Posts: 100
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1992 firebird
Engine: 305tbi
Transmission: 700r4
![Confused](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/smilies/confused.gif)
Hmm
I thought the distributor bolt was a metric head.
I remember when I did it I think I heated a 15mm and bent it to do the bolt.
Dan
#15
Supreme Member
![](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/ranks/tgo10.gif)
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Calgary, AB, Canada
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I'm interested in that distributor stud...
But how does that help? Now you're trying to fit your wrench in to loosen a nut, rather then the head of a bolt..... So? Same hassle, since it's in the same place... right?
Someone care to enlighten me?
Thanks
But how does that help? Now you're trying to fit your wrench in to loosen a nut, rather then the head of a bolt..... So? Same hassle, since it's in the same place... right?
Someone care to enlighten me?
Thanks
#17
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Sac, CA
Posts: 56
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 88,GTA Trans am L98 350tpi
Engine: Edel tes headers,airfoil,Hypertec chip,AFPR,K'N filter,Intrax springs
Transmission: 700r4 Auto ,B&M stall converter , B&M shift kit ,Vette cervo,Alu Driveshaft
i just took the coil and the bracket off and u can get the wrench in there perfect was a PITA but hey it worked
#19
Supreme Member
![](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/ranks/tgo10.gif)
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Waterloo, Iowa
Posts: 4,671
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Having more advanced timing will get you more bottom end power, pending you did'nt take it too far and have pre-ignition problems. That can be "masked" by using a cooler range spark plug, better octane fuel, and running the carb a little richer.
As far as the stud vs bolt, no secret advantages or disadvantages, just preference.
As far as the stud vs bolt, no secret advantages or disadvantages, just preference.
#21
Supreme Member
![](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/ranks/tgo10.gif)
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Valley of the Sun
Posts: 3,852
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
I only like the stud because there is a much less chance of stripping the manifold. Also if/when the nut gets stripped its a really easy swap.
Another advantage is if/when you pull the distributor you only have to thread a nut not the entire bolt. Its so much easier to thread the nut, than thread a bolt...
I made my stud out of 5/16 or 3/8 threaded rod, i can't remember the size. But if i had to bet, its 3/8.
Another advantage is if/when you pull the distributor you only have to thread a nut not the entire bolt. Its so much easier to thread the nut, than thread a bolt...
I made my stud out of 5/16 or 3/8 threaded rod, i can't remember the size. But if i had to bet, its 3/8.
#22
Moderator
![](https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/images/ranks/tgo10.gif)
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
I don't have to remove the bolt to pull the distributor out, just loosen it and slide the bracket back.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
IROCZDAVE (88-L98)
Interior Parts for Sale
4
10-06-2016 09:08 AM
Eric-86sc
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
3
04-03-2016 03:52 PM