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help removing distributer hold down bolt

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Old 07-25-2005, 07:41 PM
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help removing distributer hold down bolt

ok, i tried using a 9/16 wrench, and it started to strip the bolt, because of the angle. so i went to pep boys, got some swivels for my ratchet, that didn't even work, couldn't turn the bolt. so my question is, what do u guys use to take that bolt out? what do i need to buy?
Old 07-25-2005, 07:44 PM
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9/16" distributor wrench.
Old 07-25-2005, 08:24 PM
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if its starting to strip it, try using the box end of the 9/16 wrench.

the actual distributor wrench is the easiest way.

the dizzy wrench doesn't fit with my stealthram, so i just use a 9/16 open end and lay it as flat as i can on the valve cover. it works fine for me, doesn't strip it at all
Old 07-25-2005, 09:24 PM
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Originally posted by Apeiron
9/16" distributor wrench.
so i can get one of these at pep boys or autozone?
Old 07-25-2005, 09:27 PM
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Car: 89' Iroc-Z G92
Engine: TPI 305 G92
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Limited 9 bolt, 3.45
its 5 bucks for a set if that, [edit] they sell them at any auto parts store with a tool section

Last edited by Mcdamit; 07-25-2005 at 09:30 PM.
Old 07-25-2005, 11:55 PM
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Got mine at Sears.
Old 07-26-2005, 01:15 AM
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After you get it out, replace it with a stud and nut!
Old 07-26-2005, 09:29 AM
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Originally posted by ME Leigh
After you get it out, replace it with a stud and nut!
how did u do that?
Old 07-26-2005, 09:48 AM
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
You can either get the kit from summir or jegs that has the quick start nub on the end of the stuf, the stud itself will just thread into the existing hole, then you'll use the nut to actually tighten down the clamp down.

Or you could get a longer grade 8 bolt, cut the head off and thread it down into the hole and "make" your own stud, just be sure it sticks up above the intake about 1".

The actual stud lits are cheap enough and only take 3 days to get in, I still run just a standard bolt, but our other car uses the stud. Personally dont hve a preference to either since once the timing is set, I dont worry ever again.
Old 07-26-2005, 10:10 AM
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Car: 91camaro rs,2014 silverado 5.3L
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ok, one more question, is this what i need?
distributor wrench?
Old 07-26-2005, 10:11 AM
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here is a pic if the link didn't work.
Attached Thumbnails help removing distributer hold down bolt-wrench.jpg  
Old 07-26-2005, 10:58 AM
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that would be the one. they are so handy. and i would say to go with a new bolt too. couldnt hurt, and it would be stripped.
Old 07-26-2005, 11:16 AM
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ok, thanks
Old 07-26-2005, 12:56 PM
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Car: 1992 firebird
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Hmm
I thought the distributor bolt was a metric head.
I remember when I did it I think I heated a 15mm and bent it to do the bolt.

Dan
Old 07-26-2005, 02:16 PM
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
I'm interested in that distributor stud...
But how does that help? Now you're trying to fit your wrench in to loosen a nut, rather then the head of a bolt..... So? Same hassle, since it's in the same place... right?

Someone care to enlighten me?

Thanks
Old 07-26-2005, 02:19 PM
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Car: 89 GTA
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: 700r4
I always just use a crows foot works great.
Old 07-26-2005, 04:59 PM
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Car: 88,GTA Trans am L98 350tpi
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Transmission: 700r4 Auto ,B&M stall converter , B&M shift kit ,Vette cervo,Alu Driveshaft
i just took the coil and the bracket off and u can get the wrench in there perfect was a PITA but hey it worked
Old 07-26-2005, 08:16 PM
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ok, well i got the distributer wrench, it took a little effort, it was in there tight!! but i got it loose, now i am set at 4* advanced. that should give me a little more power right? also would i have to use a better grade of gas? i am using 87 now..
Old 07-26-2005, 08:23 PM
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Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Having more advanced timing will get you more bottom end power, pending you did'nt take it too far and have pre-ignition problems. That can be "masked" by using a cooler range spark plug, better octane fuel, and running the carb a little richer.

As far as the stud vs bolt, no secret advantages or disadvantages, just preference.
Old 07-26-2005, 08:26 PM
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Car: 89' Iroc-Z G92
Engine: TPI 305 G92
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: Limited 9 bolt, 3.45
set it to 6*..... stock tpi advance,
Old 07-27-2005, 01:13 AM
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
I only like the stud because there is a much less chance of stripping the manifold. Also if/when the nut gets stripped its a really easy swap.

Another advantage is if/when you pull the distributor you only have to thread a nut not the entire bolt. Its so much easier to thread the nut, than thread a bolt...

I made my stud out of 5/16 or 3/8 threaded rod, i can't remember the size. But if i had to bet, its 3/8.
Old 07-27-2005, 01:18 AM
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I don't have to remove the bolt to pull the distributor out, just loosen it and slide the bracket back.
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