black5.7GTA

Okay,I knew like death it was just a matter of time, for it to give me probs(and ruin a planned weekend If I turn ignition key on my 1990 GTA,security light will not come on or flash,turn key to start, absolutely nothing,turn off,then right back on,security light stays on,but does not flash,after it sits for a little,security light will not be on again on first try.Key is only 3 months old and LOOKS fine.Could it be the wires in the lock cylinder,pellet in key or other?Any ideas before I spend wasted $ on a new key.Thanks.

[This message has been edited by black5.7GTA (edited September 21, 2001).]

Vader

GTA,

Try cleaning the contacts in the ignition lock cylinder with a cotton swab soaked in alcohol. Blow the alcohol dry and try the key again.

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Later,
Vader
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Justice and Freedom will Prevail

black5.7GTA

Thanks for the reply,but unfortuneately I already tried that with NP remover(no rubbing alcohol at friends house where I am stuck at (piece of cotton even broke off,which I had to dig out with a screw driver It first happened to me earlier today at a gas station,then for some reason I got it to start after about 15 minutes of trying,but has been dead ever since I shut it off after that.Any other Ideas?Thanks.

[This message has been edited by black5.7GTA (edited September 21, 2001).]

black5.7GTA

ttt

black5.7GTA

Well,I went to dealership to check resistance on key,the good news I didn't have to spend the $25 on a new key ,the bad news,I still have a dead car I cleaned out lock cylinder thoroughly,and "security"light still does not come on on first try after 3 minutes,and stays on in between.Any other suggestions,or am I looking at an inevitable tow,trip to a shop,and big BILL$$$

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

2 choices, new prom with VATS disabled or get the VATS system fixed.
First choice should be much cheaper, but then your car can be stolen easier.

The choice is yours.

black5.7GTA

So,is it 100% it is my VATS being that the security light does not come on,and stays on after the initial try,also,Will a vats bypass Mid America sells for the corvette work on my car?I have an Ed wright chip and would like to keep it.

SMasterson

Well, I've only fixed two of these before but I know a little. Usually, there are two small white wires coming out of the right side of your steering column. These wires come from two small contacts in your ignition and go to the VATS module that reads the key. This module sends a pluse signal to the ECM (computer) to tell it that the key is correct. You can try this. I have taken the wire, (can't remember the number) and scraped in across a ground real fast and hit the ignition just right and got one started but finding the correct wire could be a problem, or worse, using the wrong one could cause more problems). When it didn't work though I sat for about 4 minutes until it would even try again.

Measure the resistance and get a resister to match, install in between the white wires. Or maybe, cut the white (on second thought, they could be yellow) wires where it will be easy to reconnect them, touch each very small maybe white, maybe yellow wire to each side of the key and have a buddy crank it. If it works, it's in the wiring from there to the ignition lock. If it doesn't, it still may be in the wiring from where you tested to the module so try to get closer. (The ones I've worked on were on the left kick panel on a Camaro, no idea on other cars) If the doesn't work, the module itself may be bad and you'll need more expertise than I can provide, unless you happen to run across a used one with the correct key like I did. ($35.00 on eBay)

Hope this helps and I will try to explain better if it doesn't. There are also several sites about VATS but most don't mention the module between the key and the ECM, just the little contacts in the column and needing the correct resistance, (key or resister). There are only 15 different keys I believe.

Let us know what you find. This subject comes up a LOT!



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SMasterson

SMasterson

The only way the VATS bypass will work is if your system is working correctly already. The bypass will read your key and simulate (learn the resistance) it for remote start functions to work. They are usually designed to bypass a working system to incorporate another type of alarm system.



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SMasterson

black5.7GTA

if the bypass only works if the system is functioning properly , why will a new prom with it by passed work?I am going to work on getting a new prom burnt from someone on the board any reccomendations?I would hate to have to wait and spend the money and it not work .

thanks

[This message has been edited by black5.7GTA (edited September 24, 2001).]

SMasterson

When you use a chip that doesn't have VATS it doesn't look for the pulse signal from the VATS module. If you get a chip without it, or have it removed from yours it will not know it has a VATS module hooked to it.

Unless you're dissatisfied with your PROM it would be easier to just try what I recommended in my previous post.



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SMasterson

black5.7GTA

What about the starter relay?Looking at a previous post,even with vats bypassed in the prom it said a vehicle still wont start unless the starter relay is also bypassed?If that is correct,how is that done?I have been told that the contacts in the lock cylinder are worn and 90% of the time,if the key is okay that is the problem.(will that work?)Do I take a chance and change that.I don't want to splice wires without knowing if they are the right ones,but this is driving me nuts.

[This message has been edited by black5.7GTA (edited September 24, 2001).]

Omar

You just have to ground the relay. It's behind the driver's kickpanel

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1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
NOS 5151 150HP kit
ProBuilt 700R4, PI Vigilante 2800 stall lockup
Baer Brakes 12" Sport System

91DropTopTA

If you are sure that the key cylinder is worn, it is not hard to replace. I even had to remove my airbag and it took a couple of hours max. If you don't have an airbag it should be easier. You will have to get a new ignition cylinder. Make sure to take the old key with you. When you buy the cylinder, it will have a key in it with no VATS chip. You will then have to go and get a key made which will be matched to your old key's VATS resistance. The only thing you need is a steering wheel puller and a tool to depress the spring tensioner below the wheel. You will have to remove the blinker switch and then you can get to the key cylinder. You will have to figure out a way to feed the wires for the VATS back through the column. It's not that hard, and if you do it, you can keep the VATS and not worry about the key cylinder anymore.

black5.7GTA

Well,I got it started last night Yesterday morning I bought a new lock cylinder(I beat the last reply)to at Discount($40)and had a locksmith come out.He put a VATS tester on it,and it said the problem was in the column.Temporarily,(he finally came late last night)he put the new cylinder with old pellet key in it underneath the dash connected to VATS wiring,then he cut a regular key for the column.It took all of 5 min and no splicing.I am going to take it to his shop to have the new cylinder put in the column later($75 labor+$25 key)which incidentally AAA will cover,so besides the headache,its going to cost me just the $40.Whew.Thanks for all the help.