350turbo411

heres what i got...

cylinder 1 was 120 psi when filled with oil the compression went to 160...
cylinder 2 170 psi
cylinder 3 170 psi
cylinder 4 160 psi
cylinder 5 150 psi
cylinder 6 160 psi
cylinder 7 150 psi
cylinder 8 150 psi

the thing is i havent ran the motor...in about 1 week would this have affected my compression readings???? the car does have blue smoke at startup tooo...what do you think i could do to correct this with $400 bucks????? i'm just getting into numbers and engine performance...i keep wanting to get deeper into this stuff everyday...thanks to you guys.....

Rob
83 camaro
80 305
performer intake
non electronic q-jet
no manifolds....waiting for the headers to ship....

jcb999

The motor should be at operating temp when you perform a compression test.
Or as close as you can get it.

350turbo411

alright...ill put the manifolds back on...for a bit....thanks

Rob

SSC

Your cold numbers are fine, actualy better than most engines at operating temp.
SSC

8Mike9

Well, what you now kjnow is that you have a ring that does not seal well when cold. Most likely it will never seal well when cold.

The only engines I know of that the rings tent to reseat from sitting a long time are transposed )correct word?) cylinder engines like VW's, and motorcycles.

The reason to do a compression test when the engine is at operating temp is to ensure consistancy between cylinders...when an engine is cold and you spin it for the first reading..friction begins to expand the rings...so by the time you get to the last hole, you're not comparing apples to apples anymore.

My thoughts? You need rings.

350turbo411

well...i cant build an engine and have no money for a new one...sooo...guess ill have to run it ...until it blows in 100k miles......its been sitting for like a year.......only started it a couple times....


thanks

Vader

350,

I'm doing a little reading between the lines here, so bear with me.

It sounds like the engine has been sitting for an extended period without running. This alone will account for some smoke on startup, especially if the engine wasn't prepped for storage by fogging with oil. The cylinder walls could have some rust and scale which is holding oil and causing the burning. Many times, this scale will eventually be cleaned/scraped away as the engine is run, but it can cause some accellerated ring wear in the interim. As long as the engine doesn't have excessively high mileage, the rings can survive it. Just keep the RPMs down for a while and plan on an oil change very soon.

It is also possible that, due to long storage, the rings have stuck in the lands and are not moving freely enough to expand and seal the cylinders or control oil. This can be aggrevated by the rust on the cylinder walls, which will tend to push the rings farther into their grooves, causing them to stick even deeper and allow more blowby and oil consumption. Again, this may not be the end of your engine. Changing the oil and filter soon can clear out the contaminants scraped away, and should help free the rings in their lands. Refilling with synthetic oil will start the cleaning even faster, and may unstick rings pretty quickly. The extra measure of lubrication can also be important while the engine is cleaning itself, since the rust particles can be very abrasive. Plan on changing the oil filter again in about 500 miles, then top off the sump with oil.

The poor cylinder sealing is a likely cause of the lower compression reading on th e#1 cylinder, and that was helped with the addition of some oil. The other cylinders you checked may have benefitted from the cranking that was done, and teh rings may have had a few more strokes to clean the rust off the cylinder walls.

Again, change oil soon, and buy an extra filter for changing after a few hundred miles. The water emulsified in the oil isn't helping the situation, and could have started forming acids from sitting in the sump with the extra hydrocarbons. Get the cheapest filter (other than Fram) so that at least the largest particles are trapped, then change to a good filter for the remainder of the oil change.

The smoking may eventually stop. There are several people on the boards that have eliminated oil smoke after changing to synthetic and cleaning the rings and grooves. You can't have too much lubrication.

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Later,
Vader
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Justice and Freedom will Prevail

350turbo411

thanks a lot...ya know ..i've never changed a motor or anything.. and i'm looking for a little bit of performance......i am going to use snythetics...everything in that motor is crusty....

thanks