new cam install
#1
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 310 LG4
Transmission: 700R4 w/2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
new cam install
Ok, i still ahvent started my motor yet, lack of $$. I ditched my summit "truck" cam for an edelbrock torker II cam (232/234). I've never installed a cam before, but I have removed one.
Are there any guides to help me get the cam in the right position vs the crank? Can I install the cam without removing the balancer? will the timing chin cover tilt to the side?
Can I keep the timing gear in the same spot on the chain and then position the cam "nub" on the new cam to the same spot as the current cam and then put the gear back on? or will I need a cam wheel?
How will I know if it is in the right spot and not 180 out (without starting the car)?
Thanks.
Are there any guides to help me get the cam in the right position vs the crank? Can I install the cam without removing the balancer? will the timing chin cover tilt to the side?
Can I keep the timing gear in the same spot on the chain and then position the cam "nub" on the new cam to the same spot as the current cam and then put the gear back on? or will I need a cam wheel?
How will I know if it is in the right spot and not 180 out (without starting the car)?
Thanks.
#2
Do a search on here for "cam install" or take a look at the Comp Cams website. They have good instructions. You will have to remove the balancer and the timing cover. There is a small dot on the crank gear and there is a small dot on the cam sprocket. You put the dot on the cam sprocket in the 6 oclock position (straight down) and the dot on the crank gear in the 12 oclock position (straight up). This is known as "dot to dot." It guarantees that the cam is in correct position relative to the crank. This position is TDC for cylinder #1 exhaust and cylinder #6 firing. Once everything is installed, I like to rotate the engine 180 by hand so it is on #1 firing, drop in the distributor, and fire it up. Good luck.
#4
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by ede
your manual ought to have a pretty good how to along with pics, drawings, and specs.
your manual ought to have a pretty good how to along with pics, drawings, and specs.
"Can I install the cam without removing the balancer?"
and...
"How will I know if it is in the right spot and not 180 out?"
are a pretty good indicator of where things stand...
I'm betting on either a bad oil leak or a why won't it start in the near future.
#5
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 310 LG4
Transmission: 700R4 w/2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by kevinc
Yea...right.
"Can I install the cam without removing the balancer?"
and...
"How will I know if it is in the right spot and not 180 out?"
are a pretty good indicator of where things stand...
I'm betting on either a bad oil leak or a why won't it start in the near future.
Yea...right.
"Can I install the cam without removing the balancer?"
and...
"How will I know if it is in the right spot and not 180 out?"
are a pretty good indicator of where things stand...
I'm betting on either a bad oil leak or a why won't it start in the near future.
#6
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Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Search for Stekman. In his profile he has written a "cam installation guide". It's very thorough.
You'll need to take the balancer off in order to
A) get the timing cover off
B) get the old timing chain out
C) get the new timing chain in
Align the dots on the crank and camshaft sprockets (you got new timing set and chain as well, correct?). They have to be perfectly dot to dot(6 o clock cam, 12 o clock crank), not "close enough". After that, turn the motor by hand so that both the dots are at 12 o clock. That's #1 IIRC.
You'll probably need to remove the radiator too, which shouldnt be too big of a hassle, since you'll be taking the water pump and all the other accessories off anyways.
You'll need to take the balancer off in order to
A) get the timing cover off
B) get the old timing chain out
C) get the new timing chain in
Align the dots on the crank and camshaft sprockets (you got new timing set and chain as well, correct?). They have to be perfectly dot to dot(6 o clock cam, 12 o clock crank), not "close enough". After that, turn the motor by hand so that both the dots are at 12 o clock. That's #1 IIRC.
You'll probably need to remove the radiator too, which shouldnt be too big of a hassle, since you'll be taking the water pump and all the other accessories off anyways.
#7
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Car: 1991 Chevy Camaro
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
There are at least 2 fairly detailed cam swap guides on these boards that I have seen just recently:
Stekman's guide: http://home.comcast.net/~stekman/Cam_swap.doc
ShiftyCapone's guide: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=307915
Stekman's guide: http://home.comcast.net/~stekman/Cam_swap.doc
ShiftyCapone's guide: https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=307915
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#8
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Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Look's like I've been pointed out already, so that saves that spiel.
To clarify what was stated above (and is covered in my write up), dot to dot is a top dead center, but its sole purpose is to assure that everything in the valve train lines up with the crankshafts position, alignment so to speak. Yes, #1 is at TDC, but keep in mind, the piston hits TDC twice per combustion cylce (firing and exhaust). Flip both dots to the 12 o'clock position before putting the timing chain on. Both valves on the #1 will stil lbe closed, but will be on the firing stage, rather than the exhaust.
And yea...that radiator has to come out. As does the condensor, if you still have one.
Expect a good day's work if you are proficient while still being neat and tidy.
I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to be careful that NOTHING drops into the pan while it is lowered, gunk from the front of the engine, gasket remains from when you clean the mating surfaces, etc. Don't want anything sucking up into the oil pump....
To clarify what was stated above (and is covered in my write up), dot to dot is a top dead center, but its sole purpose is to assure that everything in the valve train lines up with the crankshafts position, alignment so to speak. Yes, #1 is at TDC, but keep in mind, the piston hits TDC twice per combustion cylce (firing and exhaust). Flip both dots to the 12 o'clock position before putting the timing chain on. Both valves on the #1 will stil lbe closed, but will be on the firing stage, rather than the exhaust.
And yea...that radiator has to come out. As does the condensor, if you still have one.
Expect a good day's work if you are proficient while still being neat and tidy.
I cannot emphasize enough how important it is to be careful that NOTHING drops into the pan while it is lowered, gunk from the front of the engine, gasket remains from when you clean the mating surfaces, etc. Don't want anything sucking up into the oil pump....
#9
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by Stekman
Flip both dots to the 12 o'clock position before putting the timing chain on.
Flip both dots to the 12 o'clock position before putting the timing chain on.
#10
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Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 310 LG4
Transmission: 700R4 w/2200 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by sellmanb
Search for Stekman. In his profile he has written a "cam installation guide". It's very thorough.
You'll need to take the balancer off in order to
A) get the timing cover off
B) get the old timing chain out
C) get the new timing chain in
Align the dots on the crank and camshaft sprockets (you got new timing set and chain as well, correct?). They have to be perfectly dot to dot(6 o clock cam, 12 o clock crank), not "close enough". After that, turn the motor by hand so that both the dots are at 12 o clock. That's #1 IIRC.
You'll probably need to remove the radiator too, which shouldnt be too big of a hassle, since you'll be taking the water pump and all the other accessories off anyways.
Search for Stekman. In his profile he has written a "cam installation guide". It's very thorough.
You'll need to take the balancer off in order to
A) get the timing cover off
B) get the old timing chain out
C) get the new timing chain in
Align the dots on the crank and camshaft sprockets (you got new timing set and chain as well, correct?). They have to be perfectly dot to dot(6 o clock cam, 12 o clock crank), not "close enough". After that, turn the motor by hand so that both the dots are at 12 o clock. That's #1 IIRC.
You'll probably need to remove the radiator too, which shouldnt be too big of a hassle, since you'll be taking the water pump and all the other accessories off anyways.
Thanks for allt he help and info I will be sure to print and read each of the guides. I do have an experienced person coming to help me, he has built plenty of chevy's in his time, so things should be ok. I will post the video of the initial start up as soon as i get it.
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