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starter bolt hole is cracked. help!

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Old 07-05-2005, 04:29 PM
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
starter bolt hole is cracked. help!

I have a 1986 trans am with a rebuilt 350 4bbr and for a while I thought I had a bad starter so I replaced starter then the bolts and at last the flexplate, and I was still having problems with the starter moving on the mount pad just enough to cause it to not engage with the flywheel. with a good spotlight and a can of brake cleaner I found my problem it was the outer bolt hole was cracked in 2 places, I have to much money to ditch the block and start over.

Is there a way to repair the bolt holes?
Old 07-05-2005, 05:40 PM
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Car: 1989 GTA
Engine: 383 Fuel Injected
Transmission: Pro-Street 700-R4 by Pro-built
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 bolt w/posi
The block is cast, so it can't be welded properly. If the bolt hole is cracked, then nothing can be done to fix it.
Old 07-05-2005, 06:01 PM
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weld it, redrill, and retap. how bad or how big is the crack? you wouldn't want any weld in the area to redrill and tap unless it's Ni filler. steel filler will draw carbon from the casting into the weld and make it too hard to machine. wouldn't be real hard to fix.
Old 07-05-2005, 06:12 PM
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Dang. Beat me to it.. I'd listen to ede. He's welded a piece of cast iron or two. Many of us have. I'd really hesitate to do it in place, however.
Old 07-06-2005, 03:19 AM
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
the bolt hole thats cracked is the outer bolt hole, a friend suggested that I should install a stud and locktite ,

the engine is a 1969 block I had it bored, and completely rebuilt . I spent a total of $3,ooo. on parts, the labor was free because I helped him restore his 68 firebird.

I have been thinking of yanking the engine and mount it on my engine stand . and take some pictures, but the only problem with that is my car is a F body and its a real pain to get to the top bellhousing bolts. when we installed the 350 in the car I only could get 2 fingers on the bolts to get them started, and after severl attemps at that, and a few words I managed to get them in and im not looking forward to doing that again.

also my car had a factory 305 ho engine with a carb. the factory exhaust manifolds wont fit the 350 I installed. I would like to find a set of headers for the car but I dont know what will bolt up to the engine and still fit the car. any suggestions?
Old 07-06-2005, 03:40 AM
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
the bolt holes from what I can tell are cracked about 1/2 inch from the mounting pad surface. noone around my town can weld cast iron, from what I have heard it's sort of a "lost art". I would be willing to pay a couple hundred bucks to get the block fixed, but only if it would hold under stress as the engine has higher compression than stock.
the engine has an estimate of 460 hp and about 400 ft lbs torq. and has a 1/8 mile pass of 11.34 seconds . as you can see why I dont want to scrap the engine bock.
Old 07-06-2005, 04:56 AM
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ede
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starter bolts are special made to index the starter i nthe correct location, i doubt a stud would work
Old 07-06-2005, 05:23 AM
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
I was afraid it wouldnt work either, so I guess im going to pull the engine anyway and haul it around in the back of my pickup and hope someone can weld it and repair it.

I live in kentucky, what state do you live?
and what would you charge?
Old 07-06-2005, 07:55 AM
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it isn't rocket science, just about any semi skilled semi knowledgeable dumbass with a welder could do it
Old 08-04-2005, 11:53 AM
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Car: 86 trans am
Engine: 350 cid from a 69 chevy truck
Transmission: original 700r4
here is a picture of the cracked and broken starter bolt hole.
Attached Thumbnails starter bolt hole is cracked. help!-aug03220.jpg  
Old 08-05-2005, 08:56 PM
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Car: 1988 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 350 4BBL
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
1/8th mile pass at 11.34?
Yep, that's a keeper!
(Dale Jarrett said he was gonna race the truck)

Last edited by Supervisor42; 08-05-2005 at 09:03 PM.
Old 08-07-2005, 10:03 AM
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Oh, you have one of those blocks.

The photo looks like one of those blocks with "the other problem", as opposed to "the problem" that plagued so many other SBC castings.

I'd want to weld up that entire area, and deposit additional material outside the cast boss to bolster it further. Mill, file, and/or scrape the area flat so that you can mount the starter correctly.

Before you drill/tap the new hole, be absolutely certain that the starter is mounted straight, flat, and exactly perpendicular to the flywheel. Use a machinists' square to verify the mounting position after installing a NEW starter bolt in the inboard hole to hold the starter. The old bolts may be slightly worn, allowing misalignment. Anything other than a starter bolt will not have the correct shoulder size and knurling to prevent movement. You'll only get one shot at this. You don't want to repeat the factory's mistake.

"Lost art?" I'm probably the dumbass that ede is talking about, I guess. Welding castings is not very difficult. That used to be a required skill before someone could use the term "weldor". Just because it isn't easy or common doesn't mean it cannot be done. By that measure, a lot of things must be "lost arts".
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