Need help designing a fuel system for new engine...
#1
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
Need help designing a fuel system for new engine...
I am converting from a 305 TBI to 406 TPI (SuperRam), so I think I need to update the fuel system a little If I remember correctly, there are 4 fuel lines on top of the tank: Fuel Pickup, Fuel Return, Vent to Charcoal canister, and I forget what the last one is for. I am looking for a custom setup for the new engine. I am 99% sure I will be using Aeromotive and Aeroquip supplies for this setup. I have the following equipment in mind:
<ul>[*]2 Aeromotive Fuel Filter (Paper Element)</li>[*]Aeromotive Fuel Pump (#A1000) 500lbs/hr @ 45 psi @ 12 volts.</li>[*]Aeroquip AQP racing hose (?ft)</li>[/list]
Does this sound like a decent setup sop far? Can anyone give me an estimate on how many feet of braided hose I'll need to compelte this system? What are soem reccomended sizes for these lines? Both the filers and the pump have -10 AN ports, so should I run -10 AN hose, or is that too large for the fuel supply? Can anyone reccomend a supplier for adapters and fittings? Should I stick with Aeroquip for those, too. I know this is asking a lot. Thanks guys!
<ul>[*]2 Aeromotive Fuel Filter (Paper Element)</li>[*]Aeromotive Fuel Pump (#A1000) 500lbs/hr @ 45 psi @ 12 volts.</li>[*]Aeroquip AQP racing hose (?ft)</li>[/list]
Does this sound like a decent setup sop far? Can anyone give me an estimate on how many feet of braided hose I'll need to compelte this system? What are soem reccomended sizes for these lines? Both the filers and the pump have -10 AN ports, so should I run -10 AN hose, or is that too large for the fuel supply? Can anyone reccomend a supplier for adapters and fittings? Should I stick with Aeroquip for those, too. I know this is asking a lot. Thanks guys!
#3
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
Well, I dont, but its the only fuel pump that looks cool, and is external. Do you have another suggestions? I definately do not want anything internal, I only plan on dropping the tank once, and thats for the installation of the system I am building. I am also considering Earl's hoses and An fittings, as I have heard they are quality parts.
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Car: 1990 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: manual/t56
you could probably find a holley external fuel pump that would work just as well for your engine. Man, you could drain a pool with that 500lb/hr job. If you don't like holley's(and some people don't) check out the online speed shops like jeg's or summit racing. I'm sure if you go through their catalogs you find just what you need. good luck on that 406, it sounds like it's going to be killer!
#5
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On my car the return line is 5/16, the feed line is 3/8, the vent to charcoal canister line is just 3/8 FI line. You don't NEED the charcoal canister, you could get away with just blocking that part of the tb.
What are you going to do about the fuel rails?
What are you going to do about the fuel rails?
#6
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
I will be using stock TPI fuel rails. I've looked though Jegs, and cant find any external EFI fuel pumps that flow less than 500 lbs/hr. So I can just take the charcoal canister out completly? Wht do you mean blocking that part off the TB? Is there a vacuum connection to it (havent looked at it recently). How many fuel lines will be necessary for a fully functional street fuel system? Will I only need 2 (Pickup, Return)? Thanks guys, I appreciate your help.
I just checked out my Jegs catalog, and found a no-name 34 gph at 90 psi pump in page 168 (TPI/LT1/LS1 section). It looks crappy (I know, I know, thats a lame excuse), and it costs 265 bucks, while the other one, which looks MUCH cooler, is a brand name that I have heard of, is 290 bucks. I'd rather spend the extra 25 bucks now and get the better pump, so I can re-use it when I do something stupid like turbocharge the engine after I get tired of it (like that will happen ).
I just checked out my Jegs catalog, and found a no-name 34 gph at 90 psi pump in page 168 (TPI/LT1/LS1 section). It looks crappy (I know, I know, thats a lame excuse), and it costs 265 bucks, while the other one, which looks MUCH cooler, is a brand name that I have heard of, is 290 bucks. I'd rather spend the extra 25 bucks now and get the better pump, so I can re-use it when I do something stupid like turbocharge the engine after I get tired of it (like that will happen ).
#7
i just cut my stock lines out of my car.there are 3 lines on mine feed/return and vent. you obviously need feed and return, and im not sure what i am doing with the vent. but you do need one as i am told so you dont get vapor lock.i think i am just going to run a line off the hard lind and stick it up into the wheel well or something. as long as its higher than the tank. i left my stock intank pump and pickup ect ect. but after the stock filter i mounted a pump that will suck through the stock one. for the fuel rail i had my fuel line (hard line) cut and had a #10 fitting welded to it so i could screw it into fuel rail and then screw my hoses to it.
are you aware of how much $$$ those little bastard fittings cost? cost me 50 bucks for 2 45º fitting to go on the fuel rail side. cost me another 115 bucks for 3 fittings for my oiling system. that does not include the 10 or so others i have in there. crazy high prices for those things. but when you get around to doing it...the best way i found to make the lines are to wrap a piece of electical tape around where you want to cut it. (tape should be right in the middle of cut) wrap it tight then use a die grinder with a cutoff wheel on it. gives a nice clean cut and does not fray thw wire. then leave the tape and slide the nut end over the hose. works good as i have done probably 15 hoses for my car now. just make sure you clean the hose out when your done cutting!
ohh yeah for a fuel pump take a look at the paxton pumps, i think they look good. also vortech has some too. dont know the flow rating though.
my $ .02
------------------
87 z28 bowtie aluminum 420small block dry sump crower lt. wt. knife edged crank oliver lt wt rods brodix track 1's super ram intake slp 1 3/4 headers accel dfi art carr 700 r4 3.42 gears ssm sub frame/ladder bars.....other parts on the way ,soon to be finished!! couple more weeks!!!
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/gdm
are you aware of how much $$$ those little bastard fittings cost? cost me 50 bucks for 2 45º fitting to go on the fuel rail side. cost me another 115 bucks for 3 fittings for my oiling system. that does not include the 10 or so others i have in there. crazy high prices for those things. but when you get around to doing it...the best way i found to make the lines are to wrap a piece of electical tape around where you want to cut it. (tape should be right in the middle of cut) wrap it tight then use a die grinder with a cutoff wheel on it. gives a nice clean cut and does not fray thw wire. then leave the tape and slide the nut end over the hose. works good as i have done probably 15 hoses for my car now. just make sure you clean the hose out when your done cutting!
ohh yeah for a fuel pump take a look at the paxton pumps, i think they look good. also vortech has some too. dont know the flow rating though.
my $ .02
------------------
87 z28 bowtie aluminum 420small block dry sump crower lt. wt. knife edged crank oliver lt wt rods brodix track 1's super ram intake slp 1 3/4 headers accel dfi art carr 700 r4 3.42 gears ssm sub frame/ladder bars.....other parts on the way ,soon to be finished!! couple more weeks!!!
http://people.ne.mediaone.net/gdm
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#8
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You can just filter off the vent line instead of using the charcoal canister. On the throttle body there are three vacuum nipples.. one on the bottom and two on the passenger side. The top one goes to the passenger side valve cover, the one below this loops under the throttle body to the charcoal canister, and the third (beneath) also connects to the charcoal canister and a T near the rear of the plenum which I believe also attaches to the EGR.
#9
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks for all the awsome information guys. Vortech has a pump that looks OK: Vortech Fuel Pump, and they also have a fuel filter that looks good: Vortech Fuel Filter
Why wouldnt I be able to use the larger Aeromotive pump? Just cause it is capable of pushing 500lbs/hr (how many g/hr is that?), it doesnt mean I have to use it at full power, right? I'm kinda stuck on having stuff that looks cool, and performs well too. I do realize that I dont need the full 500 lbs/hr. I do realize that I'm going to be spending a lot on those stupid little fittings, but you gotta do what ya gotta do. Thanks again guys.
Why wouldnt I be able to use the larger Aeromotive pump? Just cause it is capable of pushing 500lbs/hr (how many g/hr is that?), it doesnt mean I have to use it at full power, right? I'm kinda stuck on having stuff that looks cool, and performs well too. I do realize that I dont need the full 500 lbs/hr. I do realize that I'm going to be spending a lot on those stupid little fittings, but you gotta do what ya gotta do. Thanks again guys.
#11
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by highhat:
I'm a newbie but that pump looks like an in tank pump but hey what do I know?
</font>
I'm a newbie but that pump looks like an in tank pump but hey what do I know?
</font>
#12
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
Here's one from Holley that looks promising, has anyone used this pump? Holley 200 GPH EFI External Pump. Does the pump have to be mounted upright, or can it be mounted laying down? Will this pump support a 500 hp engine? Thanks guys.
I just found this one, too: SX Fuel Pump. Anyone have any info on that pump?
[This message has been edited by Scott_92RS (edited September 10, 2001).]
I just found this one, too: SX Fuel Pump. Anyone have any info on that pump?
[This message has been edited by Scott_92RS (edited September 10, 2001).]
#13
using a general weight of 6 lbs/gallon, that monster pump is capable of 83.3 GPH. To put that in proportion, it can empty a 15 gallon tank in 10.8 mins.
That was a side note.
Be careful using AN fittings. Besides expensive, they can only be mixed w/ AN stuff. Yo may think DUH!, but there is another flared connector that isnt AN compatible. (Dont remember the name.) If you mix these two, you will produce a leak. Just be warned.
Clayton
That was a side note.
Be careful using AN fittings. Besides expensive, they can only be mixed w/ AN stuff. Yo may think DUH!, but there is another flared connector that isnt AN compatible. (Dont remember the name.) If you mix these two, you will produce a leak. Just be warned.
Clayton
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by 89ProchargedROC:
How much horsepower are you planning on running, honestly?
then i can give you a reccomendation</font>
How much horsepower are you planning on running, honestly?
then i can give you a reccomendation</font>
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Scott_92RS:
89ProchargedROC, you still there?</font>
89ProchargedROC, you still there?</font>
Ok, that is one gigantic pump the aeromotive one. To be really honest with you, you could just get a nice 255liter in tank pump and run like a T-rex inline and with the right injector you'd be fine.
This is an n/a motor isn't it? The fuel system on an n/a motor is soooo much easier to design because you basically get to use everything over. I mean really, you could even run dual intank pumps through the stock system and rails and be done with it.
My motor next year should be somewhere in the 550-600hp range.
i'm using stock lines
rails from the holley intake
36lb injectors
dual intank's
car should ideally go mid 10s on motor set up with my solid cam and big gear and high revs.
You really have to think out a fuel system before you buy anything, because it is a SYSTEM, and if you have a part you dont need...then the system isn't opporating correctly.
personally unless you plan to go bigger down the road and DONT want to go through the hassle of dual intank pumps, get a nice intank pump and a t-rex inline or an ATI inline or even Bosch 216
#18
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 406 Stealth Ram
Transmission: 700R4
I REALLY, REALLY, REALLY dont want an in-tank pump. I dont want to have to deal with it if it fails for any reason. I only want to drop the tank once to install the new lines. I really would like to install all new lines. This engine will hopefully put out 500-550 hp, so I dont want any stock component that has the possibility of holding me back. I do plan to go bigger, possibly a turbocharger, after a year or so of having this combo, and no, I dont want to have to deal with the fuel system too much when I go that route. I'd really like to go with a pump that I can use for both setups. Thanks gor your help.
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