Ichanged wires, rotor,cap,and had the plugs done. This morning I did't have to touch the gas at all to drive my daughter to work. The rpm's are 12-15... and my speedometer isn't working. Wierd part is the car sounds better, runs better, and the lights even seem brighter---it just runs away!
I figureI must have disconnected something by accident changing the wires. Please help. OH, the service engine light is on also.

 

Is is carbed? Mine did the same after tune up--solution:lube the throttle linkeage, it was stuck. If that doensn't work, check to see if the fast idle cam is scewed up. I don't know about the speedometer.

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My Dad: Your car is so hard to get out of!
Me: It's a Camaro, why would you ever want to get out?

Come to the Vicksburg Old Car Show (in Michigan) next year, and hold it up for all the Thirdgen owners out there.
e-mail for directions, dates, etc.

[This message has been edited by MartyMcFly (edited September 06, 2001).]

[This message has been edited by MartyMcFly (edited September 06, 2001).]

 

I second that, one time I readjusted my TV cable and in doing so kinked the throttle return spring. What happened was I was cruising down the road and took my foot off the gas but the car kept going, it's a scary feeling to be going 55 mph and have to jam the brakes the get the car to stop and trying to slide it into park and turnt the car off before you redline.

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'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
3" Hooker CatBack w/Aero Chamber muffler
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat
3:73 Posi
Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite

 

I'll have a look at the linkage and the spring. I know it has to something simple that I messed up by accident, simple and fixed inexpensively!!!

 

Your service engine soon light is on right? I bet a sensor was left disconnected or something. You should find out what the light is on for first, that should give you a good idea as to whats going on. This post, https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/004733.html , is the best explanation thats offered for accessing your service engine soon codes, or trouble codes. All you need is a paperclip to do it. Read Vaders post and let us know what code your car is throwing, that should tell you what sensor is disconnected, or give us an idea of whats happening. good luck.

 

I'm trying to get those codes as we speak. It's all new to me but I will fix it! I'l get back when I have the codes.

 

Is this a carbed car or fuel injected?

If it's carbed, check to make sure the electric choke wire is hooked up.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

looks like trouble comes looking for ya huh?

Check all the wires plugins near the area where you were working. Theres a few vaccume lines near there that go up to the drivers side fire wall near the wiper motor. Its possible when you changed the cap an roter one of these lines got disconected or just broke. Most likely your getting a code "32" egr related. Those lines are tied into the egr and would cause the check engine light to go on intermetinly.
As far as the speedo goes we need to know about what year your car is to determin if its an electrical problem or if the cruise control modual took a dump.
SSC

 

My car is a 90 camarors with a teeny weeny 6cyl in it. I have been under my dash for over 2 hours trying to get the codes. is this what it looks like? this is all I could find with enough openings in it.

1 2 3 4 5 6
7 8 9 10 11 12
and it's just a little part on the right side just acouple inches long and maybe half an inch wide?

 

That looks like the thing...

To get the codes, stick something between pins 5 & 6 in your drawing to short them together; a paper clip works good. Then turn the key to the "ON" position without starting the engine, and watch the Check Engine light. It will flash. Count the flashes; you'll see one flash, short pause, 2 flashes, long pause; that will repeat itself 3 times; then you should see some other patterns. That one is code 12 which it's supposed to show nder those conditions, it means "No reference pulses from the distributor", which is what you would expect since the engine isn't running. Post the other codes you see, no doubt somebody here can look them up and tell you what they mean. They're different for the various kinds of engines.

So, it's FI not carb, so no choke... a disconnected or broken vacuum line would be the first thing to look for. Usually when a car starts doing something weird right after working on it, the thing to do is to retrace one's steps, and check over everything that's anywhere close to where the work was done, looking for anything that got accidentally disturbed or not put back like it belongs.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Good idea to trace my steps. I'll let you know what I find.

 

don't give up on those trouble codes! It will tell you which sensor is acting up, that way you can track down the connection a lot quicker than normal. It is also a VERY nice trick to know. If that SES light comes on and you take it to a dealership, they will charege you at least $50 to "hook" it up to their diagnostic computer, which in most cases is a paper clip or a little scanner, depending on how they feel that day.

 

The '90 6 bangers are prolly speed density. In that case, a big vacuum leak is the #1 thing i'd be looking for. Speed density doesn't care where the air comes from, just that it is there, and thus a vacuum leak is the same as keeping the throttle open.
A disconncted TPS or MAP might bring the idle up a little as well as the computer would be confused. The TPS is a 3 wire connector on the throttle body. The MPA is also a 3 wire connector but i don't know if it is mounted onthe intake or not on the V6s.

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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The TPI & Carb Boards
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
LB9 A4 2.73 - 14.8 @ 93.1
Stock except ported plenum and dual cats
-=ICON Motorsports=-

- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die

 

I finally got the code but all it says is 12 over and over, I let it do 12 fourteen times. What do you all think?

 

I think its time to reset your computer. Disconnect the negative cable from the battery and let the car sit for 5 mins, then reconnect it. This should reset the computers memory and make it "learn" from all your sensors again. I believe I read in a post that it takes about 20 miles of driving for your computer to completely re-program itself to your cars features and driving habits. That may stop the code from coming up and may clear up your problems. If the SES light comes back on, then try to pull the codes again by jumping the A&B terminal. It should give you a code, but if it doesn't I wouldn't be too worried, just take it back toi the mechanic who changed the plugs.
You said you changed the cap, rotor, and plug wires right? and then you had to take it to someone to change the plugs? Well if you drove it to them after you changed the wires etc., did it act up on the way to the mechanic's? It should have if you had disconnected something that would cause your symptoms. I think that when he changed the plugs he may have disconnected something, I'm sure he'll be able to figure it out at no extra charge, at least he should. Keep us posted.

 

My car is fixed!!!!! I went back over everything and whatever it was is now corrected.
I wish I could thank you all in person, but this will have to do.
Thank you for your help and all the patience you showed me

 

My guess is that you had a vacuum leak at the PCV or a disconnected vacuum line at the MAP sensor. If it occurs again, look for those items first.

If you want a primer on retrieving error codes, search the message archives for a link I've posted. If you want the whole document, download this Acrobat file:

GM Error Codes.pdf

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Later,
Vader
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"Click - Click - BOOM!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

I think you are correct and I will certainly download those codes. Vader do you know of any place on the internet I can find some really good engine diagrams? The book I have is trash and just makes me frustrated. It has always been easier if I can see rather than read this type of info. Thank you for all your help.

 

Engine diagrams? Do you mean vacuum hose routings, electrical schematics, general layouts, what? If you want a really good reference manual, the Helms manuals are the best. They print the GM factory service manuals, and have all the pertinenet information on a car-by-car basis. Plan to spend about eighty bucks for one, or only four times the cost of a manual that is one-tenth the quality.

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Later,
Vader
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"Click - Click - BOOM!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

I set Elizabeth the link to HELM's site for the manual. But she discovered that they no longer stock it. This was news to me. But I also tried. I even did a search under the p/n for the 90 Camaro manual and came up with nothing. You can try eBay for a used manual. There is another source, but I didn't write it down. I'll get it again from the repair shop again on Monday and post it. I'm glad to hear your current problem is resolved. Lon

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90 RS Convertible
Owner: Top-Down Solutions
(626)369-0040

http://www.sc3gfb.org/members/lonsal.html
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