K.. I put some kinda in a can restore stuff to help with a few leaks and stuff on my motor. It was thick blueish stuff. Also put like 15.00 worth of 92 gas in the car. Car run prefect last night.

I go on out car club cruise today and on the way im on I75 N and I noticed my oil pressure on my phantom auto meter gauge dropping. Its a slow but ready drop. I take the next exit and get stuck at a red light. So to keep the oil pressure up I put the car in N, and rev the engine. I pull off into the gas station. Check for noise nothing new. Check for leaks nothing new. I have a few small ones. Weird.. I turn the car back on and the pressure goes up and then sitting there starts to slow fall again. Car didnt get over 200 on the thermat. When you rev the engine the pressure goes back up some and starts to slowly fall again. My brother inlaw checked my oil and said it looks like it might be a quart too full (guess cause of that stuff)

Anyone have any ideas what it might be? I've been told if you spin a bairing when you rev the engine the pressure normally goes down and then back up not up and then slowly down like im having.

Brother inlaw said it might be cause its too full of oil and I might need to replace the oil filter. I dunno.. I'm sick of workin on this car for it to keep breaking..

 

What is "low"? Are you using the stock gauge? It doesn’t really have any numbers on it, does it?

At idle, as long as it isn’t going all the way to the left (i.e. 0 psi) then there’s nothing to worry about.

If it is a quart over the full line on the dipstick then it's a bad thing. The oil will get flung around by the crankshaft and froth up, similar to cappuccino froth. The next thing you know your oil pump is sucking up air along with the oil (kinda like using a straw for just the froth on the cappuccino). That’s bad.

I’d take his advice and let the car sit for a few hours so all the oil can regain it’s liquid form, then drain it and replace it, along with a new filter.

Then, don’t ever add anything to your oil again. It does no absolutely no good whatsoever.

 

It sounds like this stuff did it's job, and loosened all of the clumpy oil that might have been clumped in certain places. These very clumps might be clogging you're oil pump's pick up screen.... which is why you're pressure is gradually going down.

When you shut the engine down, these same clumps fall down to the pan's bottom (resulting in good pressure), but after a few minutes of running.... the clumps make they're way back to the screen, and clog it back up again.

I wouldn't jump towards a bearing just yet, as this happened right after you installed that can of engine restore....

 

Thats a pretty good idea. We will change the oil and see if that doesnt help. Probly be the cheapest way right now.

 

I know most people are against it, but I would honestly consider putting some engine cleaner made up of part gasoline. This will turn whatever clumps that still reside in their into 'creamy milk', and will then be able to drain out of the drain hole. Just make sure you don't leave it in their for too long though.

Either this, or simply drop the pan, and scrape whatever bad oil (sludge) is in there, out....

 

Think we did that when the car was a 2.8. You wouldnt believe that oil change.. OMG.. Was takin a stick and trying to get the clumps out. lol

 

i'd try ATF instead of gas

 

DING DING DING!!!!!!!!!!!!
WE HAVE A WINNER!!!!!!!!
NEVER UNDER ANY CIRCUMSTANCES USE ANY KIND OF THIN KEROSINE OR GASOLINE TYPE OF QUICK ENGINE FLUSHES!
I'm and AMSOIL dealer and I don't reccomend our own product! If it says to put it in and let it idle for 5 minutes and don't rev or drive it, DON'T USE IT!
When I went to General Motors Training School, One of the engineers told me the best thing to clean an engine is ATF. Just put a quart in a week before your change and you're good to go.
Heres the reason. Those thin cleaners will loosen up the junk but it's not in long enough to get everything down to the pan and into the filter. The worst part is that they thin the oil and give virtually no lubrication, hence the warning not to rev or drive or leave it running too long.
ATF on the other hand is a very high quality oil with a very high detergent factor with anti-foaming.
While we're on the subject, people say don't use synthetic oil in older engines because it will just run out all the seals. Well the truth is that the sludge builds up around the seals and gaskets and forms its own mickey mouse kind of seal. When you put your thin cleaner or cheap synthetic oil (syntec, royal purple and most of the ones from the major refiners) you clean out the sludge. here's where the problem comes in, now the fresh oil can reach the real seals and gaskets but since the sludge was keeping the oil away from them before, they shrank and hardened and if it went on too long they cracked. So your expensive synthetic runs right out on the ground. Was it the synthetics fault, no. This is why you use the ATF to slowly clean out the sludge and allow the seals to get some fresh oil and swell back up and start to function again. AMSOIL and a couple of other synthetics (that you've probably never heard of) have a seal conditioner in them.

 

Were going to try and change the oil but the whole sludge thing kinda gets me. The car really isnt driven that much mostly fridays and here and there. Motor doesnt have too much over 1,000 miles probly on it. Its been drivable since the end of last year. Was parked for a few months due to winter. Oil pump was replaced when the motor was built.

 

Which kind did they install? Would you know if it's pick-up was welded on, or bolted on?

Some of the things to consider due to low oil pressure; oil's too thin due to dilution, relief valve adjustment too tight or weak, pump gear/cover are worn, pump's body is loose, pump gasket is damaged or too thick...

... and, of course, worn main, rod and/or cam bearings.

 

Well, I don't buy the whole sludge clumping thing because the engine has less than 2000 miles on it and everything was put together spotless. The oil still looks like it was just poured in. No metal flakes, just the regular sparkle here and there like on any engine with new parts that need to break in.

The oil pump pickup wasn't welded on, but we did drill and tap the cap where the pick up presses into. We installed a setscrew in that to make sure the pick up didn't come out. Still a possibility though.

I'd hate to think the pump itself is going out because it's brand new also. Melling HV-55.

The weird thing is, even at 0 PSI, the engine did not get warm or knock. Nothing. I had to get off the road, people not moving, so I ended up whacking the throttle to about 6500 rpm until i was clear and able to get over. Still no heating or knocking. Turn the car off, oil level is the same. Let car sit for 1-2 minutes, start car. 40 PSI, then slowly drops to 0. I was driving the car, when it got to 0, I put it in neutral, then shut it off. Started back up (driving down the road still, coasting in Neutral) and got 40 psi, then slowly dropped to 0 after about 4-5 minutes. I'd begin to think there was some sort of restriction or even a hole in the line, but are getting no leaks anywhere.

I'm confused. That motor should have blown up with that low of oil pressure. Still no signs of metal in the oil either.

 

Faulty oil gauge....

 

Was curious though;

But yet you wrote before-hand;

If the motor was this fresh, then why would you put engine restore into it? I know you stated because it was leaking, but where exactly?

 

Was planning on going on a car club cruise. The hubby told me to put the stuff in. Its not a brand new motor or anything. It's a 94 Caprice LT1 motor. We put new parts in it but the block wasnt new. I believe there is a leak between the transmission and motor. All I know is friday night after the loose rocker arm was fixed it drove sweet. Then I put that restore stuff in and got 15.00 of 92 gas and now the oil pressure is messing up.

 

Change you're engine's oil, get that stuff you put in there out of there as soon as possible. Go with Mobil 1 Full Synthetic.....

I'd also consider an aftermarket oil pressure gauge. If you're engine's oil-psi went down to zero... and you didn't hear any metal to metal contact (you'll both hear it, as well as feel it, when the valvetrain is not properly lubed), the gauge is probably going bad.

 

So change the oil and replace my Phantom Auto meter manual oil pressure gauge?? I dont have any stock gauges...

 

Yes change your oil and filter and yes gauges do go bad. Try and barrow one from a friend just to verify yours is working alright.

 

Double check it's installation....

 

Here's a thought (yes once in a while it happens) maybe that gook you put in, has gotten in your gauge line and is plugging it up. Might have to un-hook line at the gauge and blow it out, AFTER you change the oil and filter.

 

does gook always settle in ur oil pan from old age or no. just not running the car. wat could that come of.