BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

I am trying to get my 383 HSR engine timed correctly but I think something is wrong somewhere. First off, I know I have to dissconnect the EST wire before setting the timing. I then set the timing and tighten the dizzy down but if I go and rev the engine a little bit to keep it from stalling, the engine will fall flat on it face and almost die. It wont even rev at all. I end up having to shut the car off, plug the EST back in and reset the computer. Once that is done I can then rev the engine and it does sound smooth but it sounds and feels like crap at idle. it sounds like it is misfiring. Should I be able to rev the engine with the EST wire dissconnected, because I cant. If it matters, my cam specs are 224/230 .503/.512 112LSA. dizzy is a MSD pro billet that I just rebuild minus the module(kinds exspensive if its not the problem and its only 2 years old)


oh and mnot sure this is related but once I shut the car off and pull the vaccum line(s) off the fittings on the HSR, their is smoke that comes from the fittigns. what the heck is causing smoke to come up through the intake and out the fittings

Air_Adam

I doubt the miss is because of your timing. If it stays the same after you tighen the bolt down, then that should be fine. And it is normal for it to not be able to rev very well w/o being plugged in because its not getting any spark advance.

I'd look for a vacuum leak somewhere.

88305tpiT/A

iTrader: (2)

Make sure the leads on the module are hooked up right.

See this thread
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=285206

tom3

Also note that the module has some advance in it even with the timing set connector unhooked, need to have the idle real slow to get the base set right.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

I think what my problem is, is that my ECM is having a hard time calibrating the timing and stuff with all my mods i have to my engine. I have a mail order custom prom from Fastchip. Thatis the best I could do to try and get this engine running.My MSD 6AL box is giving me trouble I think. I have an aftermarket tach and if I disconnect the MSD box, I get not tach lead and I have no way to knowing what RPM I am idling at. Basically I should be looking for the lowest steadiest idle possible right? My cam specs are 224/230 .503/.510. WIth those specs, I think I am having a hard time getting this car to idle. I also have no idea what the computer is doing so I am basically timing and tuning this thing half blind. I am seriously looking into the DFI 7 setup and I think that will help me see what is going on here. AS for the timing issue, basically, what am I looking for through the timing light?

Fil in the blanks here
Start car with EST wire connected. timing should be around ?????
start car with EST dissconnected, timing should read????????
start car with EST wire connected and rev engine to 2000, timing should be around ???????????

also, all timing adjustments should be done with a warmed up engine I presume.

as a side note, I noticed that my plugs have a black soot on them. Oviously that must mean I am running rich right? or could it be due to the timing be messede with so much and it not being right? engine is a 383 10:1 CR with the cam specs listed above.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

With the EST, youll typically have 20-30 degrees of SA, depending on what the rpms and load is. The only thing you need to do is set the base timing when the EST bypass is unplugged. There wont be any SA except that from the A/C generator effect of the pickup coil, hence the motor running like poop. Once youve set your base timing to to 6-8 degrees or whatever floats your boat, shut the car down and plug the EST bypass back in.

Dont worry about how the motor runs, the only point of unplugging the EST bypass is to get the computer out of the loop so you can set your base reference time. If you set this by ear, idle, or anything like that youll have WAY too much SA. Also make sure the engine is fully warmed before you set the base time.

As far as your blanks,

1) Anywhere from 15-20 degrees of SA, depending on whats in the calibration.

2) 0, 6 degrees of base timing where stock, depening on the year.

3) 25, 30, who knows... Youll have to check the bin on the prom to see what it is.

The easiest way to fix your timing/fuel problems is to drop a $100 or so on prom burning equipment and go in and tweak the calibration to get what you want.

EDIT: I see this is a speed density setup. You NEED to be able to tune via the prom to get this to work properly. Itll be pig rich here, lean there, and just generally run like crap untill its tuned. I also highly recommend a wideband O2. This is pretty much a must with speed density. Innovate motorsports makes a very nice unit.

Re-EDIT: Also make sure to ditch the Ed Wright chip already and tune it.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

I plan on throwing that thing in the kids toy box to play with once I get the DFI setup I want. At that point in this build up, The Ed Wright prom was my only affordable option to get this engine at least running. I am NOT buying prom burning equipment. I will be kicking myself in the $ss for buying it and not getting what I really want....DFI. But, thanks for the help. I will be looking into this timing thing when this crappy weather finally leaves us. rain for the next 5 days with a noreaster coming. End of May....go figure

Owen

Don't take offense....
Is the firing order correct? Sounds sim to a problem I had with a carbed sbc once. I had two plug wires out of order...

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

wires are correct. I checked and checked and checked and checked them to make sure they where right. I will check again next month when the sun comes out. I should of built of boat instaed of this car, I could be using it now to get around town

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Keep in mind that with the aftermarket efi youll have the same problems you have now. That setup lookes to be MAP based, which equals quite a bit of tuning. Its real purdy looking, and has the (rather pricey) option of WB fuel control, but its also rather expensive.

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

my car is already MAP based since I have speed density. I dont mind the price of it. for what it can do and what it will let me(the user), its worht every penny. Plus I am sure I will change combos down the road so the DFI will be nice to have

BOTTLEDZ28

iTrader: (9)

UPDATE:
ok here is what I have come up with. Today I went and started the car up and let her warm up . Then with the EST wire connected, I checked the timing. At 900RPM's the timing was reading 20-30 degree(it was bouncing around)BTDC. The engine ran pretty good there. I then shut it down and disconnected the EST wire and tried it again. The timing now read 32 degrees BTDC and engine ran like crap. Next, I adjusted the timing through the dizzy and brought it down to 12 degrees BTDC(this is where Comp Cams told me to start at). then engine ran like crap there. it wanted to stall out. it was hunting for an idle.Now with the timing reading 12 BTDC. I shut it down and erased the ECM of trouble codes. I plugged the EST back in and fired it up. Timing NOW reads 10 degrees ATDC.WTF!!! engine ran decent here. I revved the engine a little and the timing went to 10 degrees BTDC. During all this the engine was very hot. The gauge was only reading between 200 and 215 but the heat under the hood was almost unbearable. The headers where not glowing but they where very hot. What is going on here. Can anyone make any sense of all this strange stuff going on?