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best hydraulic lifter for the buck

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Old 08-18-2001, 10:29 PM
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best hydraulic lifter for the buck

I just got my 1992 Camaro RS with the infamous LO3. She runs damn good, alot better than my bird that had 170,000 miles on it, and burned about a quart a week!!!

This one only has 116,000. She has ticking lifters, and i just wanna know what's my best bang for the buck. I'm not a rich man, but i want to keep 'er running good, and i'ma try to do it myself *stands proudly*. And help and illustrations would be good on the DIY aspect, and if someone lives in the SC area, come and visit

I've been looking at the CompCams ones, but not sure which are the best. I'm a real novice when it comes to engine repair like this.

Thanks everybody.
Old 08-18-2001, 11:10 PM
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Jeg's has a set of Crane OEM replacement
lifters for SBC for under $50.00. Check
www.jegs.com. I recmmend a new cam and timing set to be installed with those new lifters.
Your old cam may be worn enough that it
won't spin the new lifters. If the lifters don't spin, they will either wear off the
cam lobes or the cam will wear a cup through
the bottom of the new lifter. Not good either
way.
Old 08-19-2001, 12:58 AM
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Neither Comp nor Crane makes their own. Last I knew, Comp was using Sealed Power. Most of the major cam companies use either SP, Elgin, or Melling. All of them are just fine. The Summit brand ones are probably one of those 3, and therefore would work just as well.

Like the other post said though, new lifters on an old cam is asking for trouble. They shoudl be replaced as a set. I'd suggest replcing the rockers with some decent non-sheet metal ones, as ticking is very often created by the rockers. Adjusting the rockers might even be all that it needs. Lifters themselves rarely are the actual cause of ticking.

------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
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Old 08-19-2001, 08:23 AM
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thanks guys.

is there any way to pin point the rockers or the lifters as the culprit to the ticking?
Old 08-19-2001, 08:36 AM
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Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 305
Transmission: 700R-4 when it works
Doesn't the '92 LO3 have roller lifters?
If so the price is more like $170 for OEM replacements.

------------------
LOBC-- SS-84

92 RS Heritage package with a 305 3" high-flow cat and pipe with a Dynomax 3" in dual 2 1/2" out.

84 El camino- 383 CID, Performer RPM, GMPP vortec heads, Holley 750 D.P.(0-4779c), Crane Energizer 274,Dual 3" Flowmaster 40 Series Exhaust, Turbo 350 (375b), TCI 2500 stall, Richmond 3.42 gears, PST Poly graphite Suspension bushings, PST steering linkage, PST springs, Monte SS sway bays, Wheels from a Third gen(does that count?)
Old 08-19-2001, 05:56 PM
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<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by SS-84:
Doesn't the '92 LO3 have roller lifters?
If so the price is more like $170 for OEM replacements.
</font>
My thoughts exactly. You can change roller lifters without changing cams and vise versa.

The ticking can be caused from anything in the valvetrain. A bound spring, a broken spring, a stuck lifter, a busted lifter, a bent pushrod, a worn cam lobe, a broken rocker, a pulled stud in the head, a worn valve tip, or it could just be the valve lash is no longer set at 0". I've had just about all of those happen. Or you could just have a loose spark plug or a leaking ex. manifold and your hearing the ex. leak that sounds like a tapping noise.

Good luck hunting it down.
AJ
Old 08-19-2001, 07:58 PM
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Ok, well i'm really lost now I don't have much time on my hands, so i guess i'll just run it down to my mechanic friend, and see what he says about it.

If it helps, I just noticed after I got through pushing 'er real hard the other evening. I was at a light, and this '01 Cobra pulls up next to me. Well, i kept up with him, surprisingly, and i had to turn, and he sped off, but after slowing up, and accelerating again, i noticed the noise. Maybe just coincidence.

Or maybe the "special" stuff the dealer put in it just happened to wear off, who knows.

Thanks for all the help guys.
Old 08-19-2001, 10:30 PM
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The #1 cause of hydraulic lifter ticking is dirt. Mis-adjustment is right after that.

If the dirt is soluable, try some flush and an oil change. I have actually seen that work. If adjustment, adjust them.

If it is dirt and it's not soluable, and it hasn't caused any damage (scratches, dents), they can be taken apart and cleaned. You'll have to remove the intake manifold, the disassembly has to be done one at a time, and you have to keep things very clean when you reassemble, but I have also seen that cure a ticking lifter that did not respond to solvent or adjustment. That'll just cost you some gaskets and some time (if you do it yourself - shop labor will be higher than the $170 quoted for a new set of rollers).

Since this came up after trying to make a fool of yourself with a Mustang, AJ may have the real cause.

------------------
82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. Cat-back from '91 GTA, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker headers & y-pipe, 3" Catco cat & 3" cat-back, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Edelbrock 1901 Q-Jet (Holley 3310 on the way), GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
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