10sec78z

what kind of combo or parts do i need to do it is it a tpi car the motor has about 40k on a rebuild what should i do?

ME Leigh

Well your going to need to find a combo that makes max power at around 5000rpm. TPI is not a performance induction and can't make power over that.

Your best bet is to port the heads, add a mild cam and port the TPI runners and base as much as possible.

Air_Adam

EXHAUST EXHAUST EXHAUST !!!!

Headers (1-5/8 minimun), Y-pipe, and catback (3" I-pipe)

The exhaust systems these cars came with hold it back from making 300hp more than TPI does.

ME Leigh

Damn what the hell was i thinking! Duh! Exhaust is a must, first upgrade.

10sec78z

it have the exhaust full lenths with a custom 3 in y and full cat back i modded the air box and got some k&n's in it the next i was gona do was an air foil and i popped out the screens on the maf and i have full roller rockers i have been sittin on for a while but i dont have a cam so i think the parts i have and things ive doe would be minimal what about those chips and how do they work with a cam?

bnoon

Das da bad ju-ju mon, puts da hex on da TPI injunz...

As for your chip question, learn how to tune yourself or pay someone to dyno tune it for you. Off of the shelf chips are junk and basically only give you a touch more timing and knock down the fan turn on temps.

10sec78z

ive heard that also i mean this is a temp deal im building a carbed 406 but it looks like it gonna take a while and i dont wanna pull it apart before the summer just sumtpion for ****s ad giggles

83ho86tpi

No screens for me,
2 years and 12k miles, long road trips over 4hours long..... and I have not had any problems yet.

10sec78z

is there a particualr cam to use besides the crane cam tpi cam ? and what about a 92 firehawk cam my buddy has one layin around or a general 350/350 cam

bnoon

And you've rebuilt the MAF tables in code to go along with those changes? If you have, good. If you haven't, then it's just a crap shoot what A/F changes you're making by removing the screens. To many people get bad MAF signal voltage after doing this "mod" and experience poor idle and stalling. Not worth it unless you know the work required to make a null "mod" work and still get nothing from it power-wise. If anything, the screens make the sampling rates more consistant...

There are simply tons of computer "safe" cams out there, so don't venture off into an old fashioned grind unless you plan on getting into self tuning. Even with a "safe" cam, you can always get a bit more with a good dyno tune...

10sec78z

how do u go about rebuilding the maf tables ive never heard about that is that somethiong like just diconectiiong the battery for like a hour and let the comp delete any codes and re learn it?

10sec78z

o yeah do u recomend a did maf with the begger cam

ME Leigh

Messing with an airfoil, maf, and throttle body are'nt going to gain you anything, There are not the restriction the TPI runners and base are.

83ho86tpi

Nah, I have not gotten into prom work yet. I have heard mixed opinions on screen removal. It worked fine for TPIS test cars, they reccomend it with their fastpack. Also, I think my having the revised gm prom for my 86 helps. I understand that some of the prom changes were made due to some of the complaints you mentioned. I even think gm had a TSB about these problems.



I would follow the path of air into the motor to reduce the restrictions. You gotta get the air past point A to get to point B. Start with the airfilter.

10sec78z

so it seems to be the air stuff what i already have is a good stand point (air filters,modded air box i guess it is a box and an air foil ) is good ( to an extent) on the other hand will swaping out an 85 prom to a 86-89 prom is that hard or is it simply a plug and play kinda deal or is there cutting and soildering invovled? and will it actully make me a lil more power. and again what is the deal with the after market chips or actually should i say a reprograhmer ?

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

www.moates.net will have everything you need to get started with the prom burning. Dont bother with the aftermarket chips, unless you like paying 100-200 dollars for the same prom you already have. The DIY chip along with a good full engine to the street exhaust should bump you up to around 250 or so, maybe even more. If you want in excess of 300, youll have to dig into the motor and do a cam swap along with new heads or port the present ones.

As far as descreeing the MAF, Id consider removing the one at the rear, but the front screen (its actually a flow straightener) really should stay. The extra flow is sort of a moot point, anyhow since the maf will only be able to see up to around 450 CFM (255 grams/sec) of airflow before it maxes out. Its restricted even more so in the ecm. Yeah, you can mess with the PE AFRs when your over this, but that sort of defeats the purpose of having the MAF in the first place. Might as well get a SD setup and enjoy the extra precision.

10sec78z

o yeah what if and can i remove some emissions stuff parts will that make it run bad i got a brand new sticker i mean i will leave the high flow cat no sence in gettin rid of that not worth it but what about the egr and smog and stuff like that will that affect the perfromance or wake it up?

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

Not really, but removing the AIR can clean up the engine bay. Leave the EGR, you can have detonation problems if its not present.

10sec78z

could i deleter the egr if i ran super in the car instead of mid and will eliminating the emmisions everything but the highflow cat will that screw up my o2 sensor and or kill the car buy runnning to lean or rich or des it not make a diffeence because of where the o2 sensor is anyway and could i posibly see a differnece in perfromance if i moved the o2 sensor downstream eg; away from the head area on a stockl manifold toward the collector on a 3 in collector on a full leth header?

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

With tuning you can get rid of the egr by adjusting the timing tables and disabling it in the prom. The O2 can be moved, but youll have to use a heated sensor if your moving it farther downstream.

10sec78z

where can i find a heated O2 or what about something like an o2 simulator

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

I wouldnt use a simulator. The PID loop in the ecm will go crazy without actual feedback. It would probably just end up setting an error. Go open loop with a WB-O2 for tuning if you dont want to use an O2 and run whatever AFR you want. But, in open loop you really cant use a cat.

Lots of cars used heated O2s. Theyre only a little more money tehn the standard ones. All you need to do is provide a switched power source for the heating element. Theres a specific part number that works the best, but I always forget it