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LMFAO at my 305

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Old 04-30-2005, 08:17 PM
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
LMFAO at my 305

I tore down my 305 today, to try to get it the hell out of my car and the 350 in... I discovered this.




notice the problem here? Two on one side, one on the other
Old 04-30-2005, 08:27 PM
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omg!

Your car has no cylinder heads!! No wonder it didn't run properly
Old 04-30-2005, 08:29 PM
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
I snapped at least three rods
Old 04-30-2005, 08:30 PM
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Oh, well I imagine that would also lead to a no-start condition...
Old 04-30-2005, 08:43 PM
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Car: 1982 Pontiac T/A
Engine: 350 Carb
Transmission: TH200c
thats crazy. How did you pull that off?..lol

one to many burnouts?
Old 04-30-2005, 08:46 PM
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Car: 1991 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Rods aren't really that important anyways... just ask any mazda RX-7 owner.
Old 04-30-2005, 08:49 PM
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by DeLorean247
thats crazy. How did you pull that off?..lol

one to many burnouts?
haha well that motor had heads/cam and I think taking it up to 6200+ rpm was bad.
Old 04-30-2005, 08:51 PM
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by Ions91Z28
Rods aren't really that important anyways... just ask any mazda RX-7 owner.
How important is oil?
Old 05-01-2005, 01:15 AM
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Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
Originally posted by Token
How important is oil?
From what I hear, not very.
Old 05-01-2005, 01:21 AM
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
how easy is it to pull an engine with the converter, versus pulling the engine with the transmission together? I don't have a lot of room and it doesn't look easy to pull with a tranny... I can just slide it out with the converter, correct? The engine is locked, it will not move, at all.
Old 05-01-2005, 01:39 AM
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
If i had to do it again, i would pull the tranny and motor at the same time. Putting them in together is freakin slick. You might need 2 other people though.
Old 05-01-2005, 02:01 AM
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Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
Are those them special pistons for those TFS Twisted Wedge heads?
Old 05-01-2005, 02:04 AM
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by AJ_92RS
Are those them special pistons for those TFS Twisted Wedge heads?
hahaha I can't wait to get this engine out and dissect the bottom end
Old 05-01-2005, 02:13 AM
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Car: 1982 Pontiac T/A
Engine: 350 Carb
Transmission: TH200c
Originally posted by Token
hahaha I can't wait to get this engine out and dissect the bottom end
Oh heck ya you'll have to get us some pics with the pan off for sure.
Old 05-02-2005, 09:00 AM
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Engine: 5.7
Transmission: 6 spd
Axle/Gears: 3:92
Originally posted by ME Leigh
You might need 2 other people though.
Agreed.

I removed my 305/700R4 as one unit, and installed my 355/700R4 as one.

I did it alone. I will not do it myself again. Find a helper. A second set of eyes and an extra hand are priceless.

I am undecided on which is easier, If you want to pull them together, you'll have to remove the dist. and drop the crossmember. I broke the two bolts off inside the subframe on the drivers side of the crossmember when I dropped my crossmember. I ended up drilling a 1/2 inch hole thru the floor and installing a 1/2 inch bolt with fender washers and a Nylock. Worked out pretty well. Looks riggerish but it works.

I rebuilt my tranny, so I had to pull it anyway, but if I wasn't going to touch it, I may have just pulled the motor. I believe you may have to leave the TC in the tranny if you pull just the engine because the motor may not come forward enough to get the TC out of the pump. Not sure though.

If you are planning on doing anything to the tranny, having it out would make it soooo much easier! (I am thinking Corvette servo)

Just my

Good luck.
Old 05-02-2005, 10:03 AM
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Car: 85 Z28
Engine: 406
Transmission: 350
You can pull it with the TC still attached I did it. make sure you take out your dist.
Old 05-07-2005, 02:19 AM
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Car: 91 Firebird Dark Green
Engine: 350 Victor Jr. 2V 2000 CFM TB EFI
Transmission: 700R4 BM 2500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Zexel torque sensing Posi
what about the ATF in the convertor?

Isn't that going to make 1 hell of mess? When the 3 or 4 qts of atf in the top half of convertor come pouring out as the convertor slides off the input shaft. Thats what happened to me. Is there a TRICK to it just draining the pan did nothing to the fluid in the convertor???
Old 05-07-2005, 03:10 AM
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Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
droppin the pan will just empty the fluid outa the pan, wont empty the converter out, the most sensible way IMHO would be to unbolt the converter from the flexplate and just pull the engine by itself if you are leaving the tranny in.
Old 05-07-2005, 09:47 PM
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Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
I was in your shoes not too long ago Token... only thing was that the rod that was siezed I was able to take off the crank (it was at the bottom of it's stroke when it seized), so I was able to turn the flywheel over until it would hit the end of the rod and stop the crank with the rod just free floating.

But in your case with a totally seized engine it might be just a little difficult to get that last torque converter bolt out... you'll probably save time and a lot of bloody knuckles just taking the trans and engine out in one piece... remember to drain the trans first, or it'll come out the tailshaft lol (ask me how I know)
Old 05-07-2005, 11:40 PM
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally posted by sellmanb
I was in your shoes not too long ago Token... only thing was that the rod that was siezed I was able to take off the crank (it was at the bottom of it's stroke when it seized), so I was able to turn the flywheel over until it would hit the end of the rod and stop the crank with the rod just free floating.

But in your case with a totally seized engine it might be just a little difficult to get that last torque converter bolt out... you'll probably save time and a lot of bloody knuckles just taking the trans and engine out in one piece... remember to drain the trans first, or it'll come out the tailshaft lol (ask me how I know)
This is what I plan on doing now, especially after watching it done on Boyd Coddington

I think I can do it. I'll get a cherry picker this week
Old 05-08-2005, 12:34 AM
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Car: 86 coupe
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27 posi
dude!all it took was a blown head gasket and spun bearings for an excuse to replace my 305 with a 350!now a 383 is in the near future(long wait)!
you'll be real happy with the 350,just make sure you set it up and break it in right!
as for the t.c. bolts,if you can get to all of them,or manage to turn the crank? it's no problem to pluck the motor (hell!it looks like a short block now!)by it's self and by yourself.not a picnick(sp?)but ,not bad.i have done it several times,and the motor goes back in with a bit of wrestling once you need to line up the t.c. with the trans input shaft.
Eric

Last edited by SLEEPER 86; 05-08-2005 at 12:38 AM.
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