age

Ok, I don't get this... I've just repacked both front bearings, and now, when I spin the rotor, I can hear the bearings rolling.

I've packed them with grease (Red Line synthetic) both with my hand and a bearing packer, and I've added grease to where I should add grease. New seal was installed, and I did the whole preload thing. The only thing "different" that I did was in the end when I finger tightened the lock nut, I turned it an extra 1/8 of a turn, just to get it a little snug. Could that cause bearing noises?

Thanks

R.O.B.

Look for the possiblilty that the cotter pin is hitting the dust cap.

Stuart Moss

1/8 of a turn = 45°. GM states that after the nut was loosened (see below), to hand tighten it no more than 1/2 flat, and I think that would equal 45°.

Did you first tighten it to about 15lbs. while rotating the wheel to seat the bearings? After this, back it out to just loosen it, then finger tighten it holding the socket in your fingers, or gently with a wrench.

If you can't align a hole by tightning, try "seating" the bearings again (see the paragraph above) or try to go a tad CCW. Make sure you don't have too much play when grabbing the wheel at 12 and 6 o'clock. I strive to have just a hint of play to no play (it's kind of hard to describe unless I put a dial indicator on).

I would be curious to hear the kind of noise you are referring to.

[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited July 25, 2001).]

age

Stuart, I didn't use a torque wrench, but I did pre-load the bearing a couple of times by tightening the lock nut a bit with an adjustable wrench, then spinning the rotor, loosening the nut, and then hand tightening the nut with an extra 1/8 turn with the wrench to finish off the job.

The sound that I'm hearing can be best described as like a grinding sound as you spin the rotor.

I know that the bearings are in good condition (they're not new) but after cleaning them, I didn't see any heat scores, or pitting, etc..

I'll double check the cotter pin, but I remember that I had cut the cotter pin to make clearance because it was quite long to begin with, and then I wrapped both ends around the castle cap that goes over the nut.

The only other thing I can think of is that when I installed the seal, I didn't install it completely flush. Like, I tapped the seal in place, but it went just a little bit further in than it normally should. Not by much, just a little. But I don't see that being a problem, or is it?

Stuart Moss

The seal sounds like it's fine. But the metal-to-metal sound does not sound like it'd be the bearings considering that they are well greased. I'd suspect something is else is causing the noise. The cotter pin suggestion was good, but you'll just have to listen close and see of you can isolate the location. You had to take the brakes off. Perhaps they were not reinstalled correctly. Just remove things one at a time (brakes, spindle nut cap, etc.) and see when the noise goes away.

You certainly don't need a torque wrench to do the job. I cited a torque figure only to give you an idea of how tight to tighten it when "preloading" the bearing. Actually GM said something like 12lbs. (that's 12, not 121).