Have block, heads, cam, intake... need bottom end! Suggestions?
#1
Thread Starter
TGO Supporter
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 3,462
Likes: 5
From: MA, USA
Car: 83 bird
Engine: 305/383
Transmission: WC T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
Have block, heads, cam, intake... need bottom end! Suggestions?
Ok, I've been buying up all sorts of stuff for my first engine build, but I now realize that will all these new parts, it would suck to have something break on the bottom end.
So, this is what I have:
1969 350 block, just say stock internals
Holley Stealth Ram
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2 heads
Summit 1.5 aluminum roller rockers
Melling oil pump screen, spring, drive rod, and pump
NOS kit (whatever the TPI one is, I forgot the #)
52mm Holley TB
I measured the bore on the block, and it is exactly 4". At least, I hope I did that right! If it was bored out, would it be a substantial difference, or would I have to use a micrometer?
So I guess I need recommendations for a crank, rods, pistons, bearings, etc. Whatever is in there!
So, this is what I have:
1969 350 block, just say stock internals
Holley Stealth Ram
Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2 heads
Summit 1.5 aluminum roller rockers
Melling oil pump screen, spring, drive rod, and pump
NOS kit (whatever the TPI one is, I forgot the #)
52mm Holley TB
I measured the bore on the block, and it is exactly 4". At least, I hope I did that right! If it was bored out, would it be a substantial difference, or would I have to use a micrometer?
So I guess I need recommendations for a crank, rods, pistons, bearings, etc. Whatever is in there!
#2
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 52
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Stock stock stock stock.
This not enough motor to require a lot of expensive aftermarket race parts.
The stock crank is fine (have it precision reground)
the stock rods are fine ( have then resized and check the size) use new ARP rod bolts.
The stock pistons need a little upgrade.
A forged piston is nice but a good Hypereutectic cast piston is more than up to the task.
pay attention to your bearing clearances
If you're going to spray it , make the ring gaps bigger.
Consider having the block "decked" to decrease the deck quench clearance and raise the compression some.
Measure it before you take it apart.
A measured, finished compression ratio of 10.3:1 Max is good for what you're doing.
if you want a smoother running faster accelerating motor have the rotating assembly balanced.
A new harmonic balancer is nice.
This not enough motor to require a lot of expensive aftermarket race parts.
The stock crank is fine (have it precision reground)
the stock rods are fine ( have then resized and check the size) use new ARP rod bolts.
The stock pistons need a little upgrade.
A forged piston is nice but a good Hypereutectic cast piston is more than up to the task.
pay attention to your bearing clearances
If you're going to spray it , make the ring gaps bigger.
Consider having the block "decked" to decrease the deck quench clearance and raise the compression some.
Measure it before you take it apart.
A measured, finished compression ratio of 10.3:1 Max is good for what you're doing.
if you want a smoother running faster accelerating motor have the rotating assembly balanced.
A new harmonic balancer is nice.
Last edited by F-BIRD'88; 03-24-2005 at 08:32 PM.
#3
TGO Supporter
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 1
From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
If the motor were bored out, .030 or something like it would be cast in the top of each piston. I would recommend forged over hypereutectic since you are going to spray it. And get it all balanced...it will run smoooooooth !!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
theshackle
Tech / General Engine
4
03-05-2017 07:37 PM