Roller lifter or rocker?
#1
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Car: '85 Camaro
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: T-5
Roller lifter or rocker?
I don't know if I'm just getting anxious or what, but I just don't see how I can justify $1000 for a roller cam and all its hardware, when I can't really use a 6500 rpm limit anyway. I am thinking it may just be better economically to go flat tappet and upgrade in 20k miles or so.
So if I was going to buy one or the other which would I give me the most bang for the buck?
Thanks,
Jason
So if I was going to buy one or the other which would I give me the most bang for the buck?
Thanks,
Jason
#2
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Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
I would get stronger rocker arms. Either the Magnum roller tip, or the Pro Magnums, which are a full bodied roller. In your case, it's about $150 for the roller tips and about $280 for the Pro Magnums. Factory rocker arms flex under stress. That's what happens when you fold some crummy metal into a boat shape and spear it with a pull out rocker stud and tell it to rock back and forth really fast. They flex. They are inconsistant. They are weak. Gain some consistancy in the top end.
In regards to the cam selection, both tappet formats (roller and flat tappet) make power. The roller just makes it more efficiently.
You have a pre-roller (factory, at least) block. So, in many cases, no, the gains of retro-fit roller setup does not justify the price. Depending on the budget, I would pin the rocker studs, get some Magnum rocker arms and a Comp Cams K-kit for whatever flat tappet you would like. That rounds out to about $500 for a complete, reliable, valve train make over.
In regards to the cam selection, both tappet formats (roller and flat tappet) make power. The roller just makes it more efficiently.
You have a pre-roller (factory, at least) block. So, in many cases, no, the gains of retro-fit roller setup does not justify the price. Depending on the budget, I would pin the rocker studs, get some Magnum rocker arms and a Comp Cams K-kit for whatever flat tappet you would like. That rounds out to about $500 for a complete, reliable, valve train make over.
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Car: 91 Z28, t-top, 5.7l ZZ4 rebuild
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700r
Originally posted by jrg77
Don't know that one. Does it have anything to do with stud girdles? How about macho pantyhose?
Jason
Don't know that one. Does it have anything to do with stud girdles? How about macho pantyhose?
Jason
Jim
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Car: '85 Camaro
Engine: LG4 305
Transmission: T-5
Okay I get you now. Screw in studs are what I was anticipating.
Car is a street car that passes the sniffer, cruises at 2500 rpm at 60mph in 5th and ideally has a shift point above 6000rpm. It will have a cat (maybe two) and the A.I.R. pump. It will start carb then migrate to LT1 intake. I can take it to the strip, autocross, or road course and enjoy myself (that does not equal win all the time).
I would like to get the engine in the car before spring is over. To do that I may have to be flexible.
Jason
Car is a street car that passes the sniffer, cruises at 2500 rpm at 60mph in 5th and ideally has a shift point above 6000rpm. It will have a cat (maybe two) and the A.I.R. pump. It will start carb then migrate to LT1 intake. I can take it to the strip, autocross, or road course and enjoy myself (that does not equal win all the time).
I would like to get the engine in the car before spring is over. To do that I may have to be flexible.
Jason
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