4mul8r

I have a super rammed AFR 406 block and I am trying to select a retro roller cam for it. If you scroll down to the bottom, basically my entire setup is listed, with head flow rates.


My I/E ratio is 82-84%, so I heard running a single pattern cam is better?

Here are four cams I am considering…ranked from highest preference to lowest:

Comp Cams cc12-450-8 286HR
230/230 .560/.560 110 $244.95

Edelbrock edl-2201
234/238 .539/.548 lsa=? $219.95

Crane Cams retro crn-119841
234/242 .539/.558 lsa=? $299.95

Trick Flow (not retro fit) tfs-31402001
230/234 .528/.539 lsa=? $249.95

I looked up some info on afr's site and found that the springs I have are a .600 max recommended lift.

Does the manufacturer's suggested max lift, include lift with rr's?

What makes a retrofit roller cam different from the regular roller cam? And why does this difference matter. Do I absolutely have to use a retrofit one?

What kind if thrust button and wear plates is everyone using?

Will I need a special timing cover? Someone told me that the Edlebrock’ss aluminum water pumps have something built in that will hold the cam in place. Is this true? If so, is it true for all their aluminum water pumps?

What type of timing chain do I need?...any recommendations?

What I am thinking about the cam
If my calculations are correct, the Comp Cams one would put my peak power at about 5500rpm and my total lift would be .597. Would this be ideal since it pretty much uses all the available recommended lift and the peak power falls at an rpm that wouldn’t kill the 406 block.

Or am I wrong at this logic? Does that lift come too close to the max .600 lift? And having peak power fall at 5500, is that not using up the 406 and super ram’s potential? Should I get a custom grind of like 235/235 .555/.555 110? Would that work or be worth the extra money? Main thing I am worried about with higher peak power is the block internals. I would rather wear out my springs than throw a rod or something.

Or does one of my other cam choices sound better? Or???

Basically this is a daily driven car. I drive it pretty hard and it sees a good amount of racing. Straight line mainly…but also the twisties.

Head Flow Data
.1 = 67.9 / 56.0 = %82.47
.2 = 134.3 / 113.9 = %84.81
.3 = 201.1 / 167.9 = %83.49
.4 = 248.2 / 206.1 = %83.04
.5 = 276.6 / 227.0 = %82.07
.55 = 282.2 / 233.0 = %82.57
.6 = 283.6 / 239.3 = %84.38


My Setup
slp cold air
58mm tb
Ported super ram
port matched sr base
ported and upgraded 195 afr heads
3200 vig converter
built 700r4
3.5" alum. ds
(3.73 gears to come very soon)
super comp long tubes
3" y pipe
4" exhaust w/ no cat
holley afpr
cc 1.6 roller rockers
comp cams 853-16 retro fit lifters
hydra-rev kit
march pullies

400 block bored .030"
with TRW forged aluminum pistons TRW-L2489F30
SDPC balancer part
#6272225 also done is
Hot tanked and magnaflux
Bore and hone with deck plate
.010-.010 crank
.035" deck clearance
Resurface deck to flat
cam bearings
checked align bore
Pink rods
Resized rods to bolts
ARP rod bolts
crankshaft oil holes chamfered
complete assembly balanced (externally I assume)


Head info
seat pressure 140?
installed height 1.800?
coil bind 1.13?

195 74cc
ss 2.020 + .050
ss 1.600 + .050
upgrade spring 8020 to 8015
steel 10 degree retainers
10 degree valve locks
rubber valve seals
guide plates
rocker stud upgrade 3/8 to 7/16 stud
s.b. bronze guides .502
2.200 intake seats
1.695 exhaust seats
helicoils 7/16 14x1.2
angle mill and correct intake 58cc

ross

What are you trying to do with the car ? Asuming you are wanting a car to drive on the weekends and some drag racing I would go with your top choice also. Dont trust the springs you shoulde check the seat pressure and open pressure and compaire that to what comp specifies for the cam.You will need a 28" drag tire to make the 3.73 gears work better at the track.

4mul8r

What's the vacum like? Do I need to worry about it for my brakes?

ross

You should have plenty of vacume hell in my old 380ci motor I had a cam with 250deg on the intake and 260 on the ex.at .050. Had no proublems. One ? did you state that your pistons are bellow the deck .035 or your head to piston is .035 Looks licke you might have a lot of static comp.

4mul8r

??? I have no clue...I don't know what alot of the head and engine-specific tech terms mean.

What does it mean and what is static comp?

It might be something I can ask the guy I bought the short block off of.

ross

Ask him if he zero decked the block or did he leave the pistons in the hole.IE piston to did not reach the top of the block during its upward stroke. May have been below the head mating surface. Static comp is what your comp works out to be on paper. IE like the pistons you have will make 11.06 comp with a 64 cc head and I beilive that the 11.06 was also with the piston .010 under the deck and .038 head gskt thickness. You will have to call the piston manufactur to find out or cc the block.

Ragtop89

4mul8r, any updates on the 400 you're building?

What was your final set up?
Do you have times?
Dyno #s?

4mul8r

Well, I still haven't finished the build up. I actually haven't done anything with the car or bought anything for it since July. I've been financially and time pressed with bills and my business. Also throw into the mix school and planning my wedding.

I am very afraid the car will never get done and the parts will end up on the classified board here....especially considering I am getting married in December and I see no way in hell that my car will be ready before then. I would really hate for this to happen, but it might.

In July or so I did losely bolt everything together to see if everything fit. I snapped a picture of the engine at that time. So, this is the only thing I can show you right now.



Since I posted this topic, I did get a few other items:

Comp Cams cc12-450-8 286HR retrofit cam
complete 9 bolt rear end with bpr disc drakes
3.73 gears and rebuild kit
MSD billet distributor
MSD 6a
MSD rev limiter
MSD super coil
MSD 2 stage rev limiter (I think that's what it's called)
timing chain
timing cover
cam button
wear plate
all new brake lines
drilled and slotted rotors for the front and back
BBS rims...then decided to sell them
arp bolts
....and I am sure I am missing some things


Really all I have left to do is set up my valve-train geometry, order the correct length push rods, order my torque arm and sub frame connectors and get my chip burnt. That's it. Of course that is about $1400 I don't have right now. Anyone want to loan me some money?