best oil for car with 100k miles??
#2
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Car: 82 firebird s/e 83 Trans Am
Engine: 5.0L 305ci 4b carb.....CFI
Transmission: TH200C....700R4
This thread might help you.my car has 99000 miles and I use 20 50 valvoline vr1 racing oil with no problems.But I live in Cali so it never gets extremely cold out here so thats also why I use that viscosity oil all the time
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=276632
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=276632
Last edited by 82knightrider; 02-27-2005 at 12:13 AM.
#3
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Car: 1986 IROC
Engine: 355 Tpi
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3.27
Ditto, I use val 20-w50 racing 251,000. No knocks just valve stem seal smoke. Oil seems to do its job, I've put 145,000 miles on it in 9 years. 305
#4
Best oil? No oil.
I have a car or few with 100K plus and use no oil. I use Mobil 1 PAO, and have no problems. If you really hate Exxon/Mobil for some reason, you can use Amsoil or Red Line synthetics instead.
Well, that's not entirely true. I have the one serious problem that I won't get to pull the engines and install new bearings, rings, oil pump, lifters, rocker *****, valve guides, and timing chains for a very, very long time.
If you're one who likes doing that sort of thing routinely, keep using the Quaker/Pennzoil mineral-based crap with the barely capable base stocks and ten times the useless polymers of any other mineral oil. If you REALLY like doing that sort of thing, try some of that special "high mileage" formula. I think it's about half oil and half additive, if that. Almost worse is the "semi-synthetic" crap being marketed. What good is a quart of oil with 2cc of synthetic really going to do, except drain your wallet?
There are a lot of posts about long-term reliability, wear, and efficiency and how they compare between mineral oil and synthetics. No need to re-write history, just search.
I have a car or few with 100K plus and use no oil. I use Mobil 1 PAO, and have no problems. If you really hate Exxon/Mobil for some reason, you can use Amsoil or Red Line synthetics instead.
Well, that's not entirely true. I have the one serious problem that I won't get to pull the engines and install new bearings, rings, oil pump, lifters, rocker *****, valve guides, and timing chains for a very, very long time.
If you're one who likes doing that sort of thing routinely, keep using the Quaker/Pennzoil mineral-based crap with the barely capable base stocks and ten times the useless polymers of any other mineral oil. If you REALLY like doing that sort of thing, try some of that special "high mileage" formula. I think it's about half oil and half additive, if that. Almost worse is the "semi-synthetic" crap being marketed. What good is a quart of oil with 2cc of synthetic really going to do, except drain your wallet?
There are a lot of posts about long-term reliability, wear, and efficiency and how they compare between mineral oil and synthetics. No need to re-write history, just search.
#5
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My car has about 155k on the clock. I use Mobil1 5W-30. I may switch to their new Truck & SUV oil, or maybe their 15k mile oil, I don't know. PAO synthetics are the only way to go.
#6
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Re: best oil for car with 100k miles??
Originally posted by IROCME
what do u guys use with around 100kmiles on a car,what is the best?
what do u guys use with around 100kmiles on a car,what is the best?
Why try to fix what isn't broke?
#7
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Car: 91 firebird
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
250,000 miles on a 10.5 compression 350, oil I use? Whatever brand of 10-30 is on sell at WalMart every 3000 miles. If I had bought synthetic every time(84 oil changes at $25)= $2100. Wow I could have bought a new engine!! No smoke, no consumption btw.
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Car: 1989 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 Posi
Check out http://www.off-road.com/RoverWeb/OilFAQ.html. Pretty informative on the topic.
#10
Originally posted by stitchop
250,000 miles on a 10.5 compression 350, oil I use? Whatever brand of 10-30 is on sell at WalMart every 3000 miles. If I had bought synthetic every time(84 oil changes at $25)= $2100. Wow I could have bought a new engine!! No smoke, no consumption btw.
250,000 miles on a 10.5 compression 350, oil I use? Whatever brand of 10-30 is on sell at WalMart every 3000 miles. If I had bought synthetic every time(84 oil changes at $25)= $2100. Wow I could have bought a new engine!! No smoke, no consumption btw.
By your numbers, that would only be a difference of $885.36 for those 84 oil changes. However, I can also stretch the intervals to almost 4,000 miles without concern. I have to go about 4,000 because of the time limitations, not the mileage. Over the life of the engine, it's nearly a wash, or to quantify it, that would be only 62 synthetic changes for me, netting a difference in cost of $653.48.
Along that entire 250,000 miles, I would have used less fuel due to the reduced friction, and probably due to the higher compression since my engine would not have been as worn. I'm thinking that your "savings" might actually be costing you some bucks.
Moreover, many people using synthetics are changing at well over 10,000 mile intervals with no adverse effects, and are proving that with analysis of the drained lubricant. By that measure, even just the oil changes are costing you more money, let alone the engine wear and fuel lost. You would have done 59 more changes with mineral oil, and even though you "saved" $10.54 per change, you would have spent a total of $1,082.96 for OIL changes, while you would have spent only $562.00 for synthetic changes.
I fail to see the economic benefits.
"Wanna 'splain dat one to me again, Lucy?
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Car: '86 Berlinetta
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by Vader
Not to inflame anything, but I can perform a synthetic change with an AC PF25 filter for just under $23. (!- 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 10W30 = $18.99, one AC PF-25 = $3.49). A similar change with a good quality mineral oil would be about $8.45 less (5 qts. good mineral oil @ $1.69, same filter).
By your numbers, that would only be a difference of $885.36 for those 84 oil changes. However, I can also stretch the intervals to almost 4,000 miles without concern. I have to go about 4,000 because of the time limitations, not the mileage. Over the life of the engine, it's nearly a wash, or to quantify it, that would be only 62 synthetic changes for me, netting a difference in cost of $653.48.
Along that entire 250,000 miles, I would have used less fuel due to the reduced friction, and probably due to the higher compression since my engine would not have been as worn. I'm thinking that your "savings" might actually be costing you some bucks.
Moreover, many people using synthetics are changing at well over 10,000 mile intervals with no adverse effects, and are proving that with analysis of the drained lubricant. By that measure, even just the oil changes are costing you more money, let alone the engine wear and fuel lost. You would have done 59 more changes with mineral oil, and even though you "saved" $10.54 per change, you would have spent a total of $1,082.96 for OIL changes, while you would have spent only $562.00 for synthetic changes.
I fail to see the economic benefits.
"Wanna 'splain dat one to me again, Lucy?
Not to inflame anything, but I can perform a synthetic change with an AC PF25 filter for just under $23. (!- 5 qt. jug of Mobil 1 10W30 = $18.99, one AC PF-25 = $3.49). A similar change with a good quality mineral oil would be about $8.45 less (5 qts. good mineral oil @ $1.69, same filter).
By your numbers, that would only be a difference of $885.36 for those 84 oil changes. However, I can also stretch the intervals to almost 4,000 miles without concern. I have to go about 4,000 because of the time limitations, not the mileage. Over the life of the engine, it's nearly a wash, or to quantify it, that would be only 62 synthetic changes for me, netting a difference in cost of $653.48.
Along that entire 250,000 miles, I would have used less fuel due to the reduced friction, and probably due to the higher compression since my engine would not have been as worn. I'm thinking that your "savings" might actually be costing you some bucks.
Moreover, many people using synthetics are changing at well over 10,000 mile intervals with no adverse effects, and are proving that with analysis of the drained lubricant. By that measure, even just the oil changes are costing you more money, let alone the engine wear and fuel lost. You would have done 59 more changes with mineral oil, and even though you "saved" $10.54 per change, you would have spent a total of $1,082.96 for OIL changes, while you would have spent only $562.00 for synthetic changes.
I fail to see the economic benefits.
"Wanna 'splain dat one to me again, Lucy?
#13
If you're not losing/using any oil, synthetic could be a good choice for you. If you're leaking or burning more than a quart between changes, it might not be worth it, and that "rebuild coming soon" is probably a good idea.
#14
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Car: 91 firebird
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
If I were to start over with a new engine, I would use Mobil 1 from the start. In the ignorance of my youth, I just used whatever. I guess I just got lucky with an engine that lasted longer than it should. By the way, GM would prefer they didn't last so long.
#15
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Car: 85Z28 87GTA 91GTA 98SS
Engine: SBC, LS-x
Transmission: T-5, 700-R4, T-56
Many engeneers and the like from the oil industry, highly technical and informative: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com what ever you wanted to know and then some.
I've been using M1 5W30 for years in my 87 GTA. Bone stock car. Changed every 3K. No internals have ever been changed. Intake has been off a couple of times due to leaks. It has over 350,000 miles on the clock and lately it is feeling tired. It is burning and leaking oil. Some blue smoke on startup but fine after that. Not fouling the plugs, I just changed them last week. No sludge, looks clean internally. I will finally replace it in the next month or so. Just bought another motor from a member of this site. I will tear it down afterwards to have a look at everything. Will take pics and post them if anyone is interested.
I've been using M1 5W30 for years in my 87 GTA. Bone stock car. Changed every 3K. No internals have ever been changed. Intake has been off a couple of times due to leaks. It has over 350,000 miles on the clock and lately it is feeling tired. It is burning and leaking oil. Some blue smoke on startup but fine after that. Not fouling the plugs, I just changed them last week. No sludge, looks clean internally. I will finally replace it in the next month or so. Just bought another motor from a member of this site. I will tear it down afterwards to have a look at everything. Will take pics and post them if anyone is interested.
#16
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: 305 LO3 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by HalfInchWrench
I will tear it down afterwards to have a look at everything. Will take pics and post them if anyone is interested.
I will tear it down afterwards to have a look at everything. Will take pics and post them if anyone is interested.
#17
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Originally posted by HalfInchWrench
Many engeneers and the like from the oil industry, highly technical and informative: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com what ever you wanted to know and then some.......
Many engeneers and the like from the oil industry, highly technical and informative: http://www.bobistheoilguy.com what ever you wanted to know and then some.......
You want answers to your lube questions, that is the place to get them.
#18
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Car: 85Z28 87GTA 91GTA 98SS
Engine: SBC, LS-x
Transmission: T-5, 700-R4, T-56
Black, I'll take pics. I'm interested in seeing what it looks like too. I could rebuild it but it's so cheap to just drop in another engine.
paulo57509, it is a great site. Not a lot of fans of K&N filters there either. A lot of dirt passes thru them and ends up in the oil. I won't allow one on any of my cars. There is absolutely no gain on the dyno or drag strip either by using one at least on an LS1 engine. That I know for a fact. Seen it tried several times with my own eyes.
I could be doing much longer drain intervals than 3K but I feel guilty if I don't. Plenty of folks go well in excess of 10K and the oil tests fine. Castrol Syntec 0W30 is supposededly one of the best out there but you have to get the stuff from Germany. The US refined stuff is not the same. WallyWorld sells it.
paulo57509, it is a great site. Not a lot of fans of K&N filters there either. A lot of dirt passes thru them and ends up in the oil. I won't allow one on any of my cars. There is absolutely no gain on the dyno or drag strip either by using one at least on an LS1 engine. That I know for a fact. Seen it tried several times with my own eyes.
I could be doing much longer drain intervals than 3K but I feel guilty if I don't. Plenty of folks go well in excess of 10K and the oil tests fine. Castrol Syntec 0W30 is supposededly one of the best out there but you have to get the stuff from Germany. The US refined stuff is not the same. WallyWorld sells it.
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Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: 305 LO3 TBI
Transmission: T-5
Originally posted by HalfInchWrench
Black, I'll take pics. I'm interested in seeing what it looks like too. I could rebuild it but it's so cheap to just drop in another engine.
Black, I'll take pics. I'm interested in seeing what it looks like too. I could rebuild it but it's so cheap to just drop in another engine.
I am looking forward to it. This is a rare occasion to me.
I could be doing much longer drain intervals than 3K but I feel guilty if I don't. Plenty of folks go well in excess of 10K and the oil tests fine. Castrol Syntec 0W30 is supposededly one of the best out there but you have to get the stuff from Germany. The US refined stuff is not the same. WallyWorld sells it.
I run 5W-40 full synthetic oil made in Germany, which is sold in a home depot chain over here under their own brand label (the chain's name is "Praktiker", just in case...).
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
Originally posted by Verviticas
am i the only one that just replaces the oil when i starts to get dark, stead of any magic number....
am i the only one that just replaces the oil when i starts to get dark, stead of any magic number....
12 months or 25k miles, whichever comes first, with filter at half the drain interval. Been doing it since 1983.
Numbers are good. If you go by some touchy-feely system, you'll either go too long or too short. The numbers above are safe with the products I use. The other choice is oil analysis, which will give you some "real" magic numbers, but which also costs about half a real synthetic oil and filter change. So, I'll stick to my formula. Haven't worn out an engine yet.
#23
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Car: 85 trans am
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700
not sure it matters that much as long as you keep up with maintenance.. never used synthetic so dont have an opinion on it. but my parents have a grand am with 462,000 miles on it without any major engine work and i had a pontiac 6000 6 cylinder with about 360,000. both just used regular castrol 10w40 and fram filter. id agree with the opinion that if your car is running good now on what your using then it would be fine to keep using it
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