took the intake off...

The arm that holds the lifter retainer is loose and bent,the ball tip of the first pushrod is still in the lifter slot.I try to position the retainer but it wouldnt sit flat on the block..(the lifter was spinning)There are scuff(sp?) marks on the block which looks like it was caused by the retainer moving.I looked thru the hole in the block to see the cam and therees a small groove there. Pulled the lifter off and compare it with another it looks fine..I know that I need to replace the cam and retainer maybe even the lifter for insurance but what else??My theory is that the pushrod broke,made the retainers loose which allowed the lifter to spin and so on..Opinions??

Im gonna inspect the filter to see the amount of shavings that went through..

All of the damage is on the intake of exhaust no.1..I also noticed the intake to be wet in oil coming from the EGR,is this related???

Off the topic..can you please compare these two cams??

Comp cams
CS 290H-R12
CS 276H-R14(current)

Daz

383(built to run 6500 RPM)Superram,TPIS bigmouth,TFS G1 heads mild cleanup and 5 angle valve job,Crane Gold 1.5 ratio rockers,comp 7809 pushrods,comp springs(recom for cam),2200-2400 rated S10 stall converter(stalls/flashes 2800-3000 on the dyno)3.27 rear,26" diameter tires

 

anything?

daz

 

Try over in the engine swap posts, they might have the answers you need.

 

Judging by your profile at the end of your message, just do a rebuild.

 

Ouch - that sounds like it was painful for the engine. Sounds to me like you have come to the point that the stock "spider" setup that holds the lifters in place is not going to cut it anymore. AFR makes a hydra rev kit that keeps the lifters more securely planted on the cam and in their respective bores. I don't personally have a hydra rev kit (yet) but a lot of people use/love/recommend them. Just do a search on it and see what you can find.

As far as replacing parts, without seeing any of them I cannot say for sure. But as far as my own stuff goes, I always keep in mind that I only want to do the repair once and cutting corners on reusing questionable parts is a very bad idea. So my motto is: when in doubt - replace it (money permitting).

Good luck...

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1987 GTA L98 MD8 GH3
355 '97 Vortec 4-bolt block, TRW(suck) forged pistons 10:1 CR, TFS 23*, LT4 Hot Cam, Ported plenum and intake, SLP Siam Runners, Edelbrock TES, gutted Cat, Flowmaster, K+N cone, AFPR, TB bypass, AirFoil, !AIR, !A/C, !EVAP, ARAP, 2300 stall, Hotchkis STB.

 

Take out all of your lifters and measure the lifter bores. I've had motors where I changed cams after a lobe got ate up, and the same thing happened again 6 months later. Could be an oiling problem also. Check those lifter bores for straightness and uniformity. If you can pull your oil pump, you will probably find shavings in-between the gears. I did. Get a new pump, and flush the motor of all the shavings with paint thinner and then some cheap motor oil to get all of the crap out.

Good luck. I know it sucks, been there, done that.

 

The Hydra-Rev has nothing to do with keeping roller lifters from spinning. It will not help.

The best thing to do is get rid of the bizarre factory nightmare hallucination of a system to hold the lifters in place. The rest of the world had figured out how to do that decades ago in far more demanding circumstances than a stock application, I can't imagine why the factory had to go and take a left turn down a dirt road the way they did on that one.

What is now referred to as "retrofit" lifters have link bars that hold the 2 lifters for each cylinder together. It's so simple it hurts to think about why the factory did what they did instead. Unfortunately, roller lifters of any sort aren't cheap; they're around $300 a set; but I think it would be unwise to re-use any of what you've got at this point.

I don't know about the cam. My gut feeling is that it's too much duration for a LTR system, but I'm no expert on how those things interact.

I doubt very seriously that the pushrod caused the problem. I suspect instead that the weak piece of sheet metal trying to hold strong pieces of tool steel in place was the thing that failed first, and the push rod was just a victim. In spite of that, I would suggest upgrading them. Those are the base-model push rods, IMHO fine for a stock situation but not adequate for serious abuse; also probably too short for as much cam as you're running. Even though they're the ones the catalog specifies for the application, it also says to get a push rod checking tool and actually test the engine as built for the right push rod to give correct geometry. It wouldn't be a bad idea to step up to the Comp 7955 which is 7.400" instead of 7.290", and is chrome-moly instead of whatever the standard ones are made of. That's what I'm running with a XR282HR after using the push rod length checker to find the optimum length.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

[This message has been edited by RB83L69 (edited July 05, 2001).]

 

I recommended the hydra rev kit because it holds the lifters in their respective bores better - not because it keeps them from spinning. But it does help keep them from spinning.

If you want to look at it technically, by using the hydra rev kit with the stock spider setup, the lifter will indeed be held in the bore better. Which, in turn, will keep the lifter from coming out of those stock alignment plates that go over each pair of lifters to keep them lined up on the cam properly, which will prevent them from spinning in their bores.