Notplayn

Hello, I am trying to remove the plug on the right head so I can install the fan temp switch. The motor is in the car, headers installed. Starter is removed and have decent access to it. I made a tool to fit the square hole (ground down a socket extension) but it just twists and breaks. Then I tried an air chisel but stopped because I did not want to frig it up if there is a better way. Thanks.

RB83L69

Heat.

Take the head off, and take it to the shop; or heat it up with a torch yourself if you have one. Expect to destroy all the gaskets and of course your paint, though.

I hate to be the bearer of bad news; but this is one of those things that should have been done before they went onto the block.

blacksheep-1

Dang..that bites. You removed the starter, I assume to let the handle on the ratchet and breaker bar to move, Yes? Because on the block there in front of the starter is the knock sensor, but you did say head so I'm assuming it's the right piece.
Can you go straight into it, or is the a/c evaporator in the way?
Heating seems to be out of the question because of all the stuff in the way. This is going to be a PITA. If the center is rung out of the plug, I'm thinking that you're gonna have to end up drilling it out. I'm surprised that this car didn't come with a fan switch stock. I guess a 90 degree drill and work your way up to a larger bit until you can collapse the plug around itself with a chisel.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

inverted square? A impact socket extension should work on a inverted square. Ratchet, 5 foot bar.. Should come out.

Heat won't help. Brass expands greater than iron. The end result will be a tighter plug. Unless you can somehow heat the head, without transfering the heat into the brass. Which won't happen.

-- Joe

ploegi

Soaking it with some type of lubricant won't hurt either. WD-40, or something like it. Soak it, let it set, soak it again. If you can drive the car, warm it up between hiting it with the chemicals, should get it to break loose.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

It's pipe thread. wd-40 is not getting in there.

-- Joe

RB83L69

It's also not brass. It's steel.... the cheeeeepest kind that will rust. Not even as "good" as the China/India/Thailand ones you get at Home Depot.

Machine shops use heat. Every day, thousands of times a day, all around the country. It's the standard method of dealing with those, because it works, and not much else does. More than likely, that's what yours will take, same as everybody else's.

ede

try welding a nut on it. you'll have something to hold on to and you'll get some heat into the head

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

Ahh. Steel eh? I normally use brass.

-- Joe

MikeH

iTrader: (10)

Why not just put it in the intake manifold? It will be away from the heat of the headers. which will probably burn up the pigtail anyways. Thats what i did... worked great.

Dont know if you have dual fans or not. But.. i swapped the pins at the computer. And burned a prom for the second fan to go/and off at the temps i want it too. So the switch is no longer needed.

RB83L69

Yeah, me too; but the factory used something a bit less friendly.

Notplayn

Putting the sensor in the manifold crossed my mind but I have read that is not a great place to put it. Something about the temp difference between the head and the manifold. But to be honest I am really wanting to get the engine running and drive the car. It is really going to bother me not having it like it should be but I think it would bother me more to jack up the motor and pull the header off and then fight with that plug. Can anyone comment on moving the sensor to the manifold. I have the duel fan set up. Thanks....

Blazin_Ghost

Im trying to do the same thing on my Caprice. I found out that the socket is a male pipe plug. If you want the exact size Ill have to get back to you on that. I bought the set off of ebay and when I tried to take the plug out it wouldnt move. I had the impact wrench on full power and it wouldnt budge. I was able to get access to the plug by taking the passenger side fender well out. So now I will try to heat it up.

Lo-tec

I did that so the connector wouldn't get melted from heat. I put mine in a port right before the thermostat and it works fine.