HEI trick kit question.
06-21-2001, 11:15 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
HEI trick kit question.
This guy at work gave me an hei trick kit that he was going to use in his 32 ford. I looked at my weights and they appear to be after market the numbers are, middle "375" sides "106"
The ones that Rob gave me are middle "368" side "053"
Wich are better? are mine stock or did my dad replace them years ago? This is new ground for me.
Thanks SSC
The ones that Rob gave me are middle "368" side "053"
Wich are better? are mine stock or did my dad replace them years ago? This is new ground for me.
Thanks SSC
06-22-2001, 05:45 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jul 1999
Location: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
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Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
GM produced may different weights for HEI distributors. Different numbers mean they have different shapes or different weight. It's trial and error as to which ones you need unless you have access to a recurve machine. The springs limit how quickly the weights open. The weights determine how much mechanical advance to give.
Use a degreed balancer, degree tape or a set-back timing light. Fire up the engine and check the timing. Lets say your base timing is 10 degrees. Bring up the rpms until the timing marks stop advancing. Lets say they stop at 38 degrees at whatever rpm the springs stop it at. Best is to have all the advance in before 3000 rpm. So you have 10 initial and 38 total. That means the weights are giving you 28 degrees of mechanical advance. By mix and matching the weights (including the center cam) you can play with the total advance. If you bumped up the initial timing to 15 degrees than the total would be 43, 15+28 (way too high). You would then need to play with the weights to lower that total back down to 38 (or whatever the best total your engine likes).
You can go to a junk yard and pull different weights out also and mix and match them just as easily.
------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
Use a degreed balancer, degree tape or a set-back timing light. Fire up the engine and check the timing. Lets say your base timing is 10 degrees. Bring up the rpms until the timing marks stop advancing. Lets say they stop at 38 degrees at whatever rpm the springs stop it at. Best is to have all the advance in before 3000 rpm. So you have 10 initial and 38 total. That means the weights are giving you 28 degrees of mechanical advance. By mix and matching the weights (including the center cam) you can play with the total advance. If you bumped up the initial timing to 15 degrees than the total would be 43, 15+28 (way too high). You would then need to play with the weights to lower that total back down to 38 (or whatever the best total your engine likes).
You can go to a junk yard and pull different weights out also and mix and match them just as easily.
------------------
Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car
87 IROC-Z SuperPro ET Bracket Race Car
461 naturally aspirated Big Block
Best ET on a time slip: 11.242 altitude corrected to 10.89
Best MPH on a time slip: 121.52 altitude corrected to 125.89
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP: 497.9
Best 60 foot: 1.546
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley
06-23-2001, 02:42 PM
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Thanks Stephen,
Im still not sure If these are more agressive than the ones that are in it "trial and error time. This set im going to use in my truck as soon as the storage place opens monday i'll slap the distributor back in and take it for a spin. Curious though I do have a bog during transition from vac to manual advance or at least where it should accure it happens in the 2800-3200 rpm area, the engine stops pulling as hard for 400 rpm then picks back up. I did put a holley 600cfm on there 2 weeks ago when I replaced the crank and it kinda lessen compared to the edelcrap and I figured The trick kit might eliminate the entire hesitation in the middle rpm range. Thanks for the reply.
SSC
Im still not sure If these are more agressive than the ones that are in it "trial and error time. This set im going to use in my truck as soon as the storage place opens monday i'll slap the distributor back in and take it for a spin. Curious though I do have a bog during transition from vac to manual advance or at least where it should accure it happens in the 2800-3200 rpm area, the engine stops pulling as hard for 400 rpm then picks back up. I did put a holley 600cfm on there 2 weeks ago when I replaced the crank and it kinda lessen compared to the edelcrap and I figured The trick kit might eliminate the entire hesitation in the middle rpm range. Thanks for the reply.
SSC
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