hows this for a stout 383?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
hows this for a stout 383?
I came across this buildup in the back of "How to build big-inch chevy small blocks". Alsmost sounds too good to be true!!
383ci: 4.030 x 3.75
530hp@5900 RPM (1.38hp/ci)
506ft-lb @ 4900 RPM (1.32 ft-lb/ci)
10.4:1 CR
37 degrees ignition timing
Dart iron eagle block
Callies 4340 steel crank
Manley I-beam 6.0" rods
JE forged pistons w/ Federal-Mogul rings
Moroso oil pump and pan
Crane solid roller 240/248@.050, .543/.561, 110 LSA
Crane Gold Race 1.5 rockers
Dart Pro 1 CNC 215 cc heads, 2.05/1.6 valves
Edelbrock Super Victor intake
Mighy Demon 750cfm
MSD 6AL
1 3/4 Headmans with 2 1/2 exhaust, Borla Pro XS
from 3000-6100rpm, this thing doesnt get under 450 ft-lbs!
I think Ive found me a motor
383ci: 4.030 x 3.75
530hp@5900 RPM (1.38hp/ci)
506ft-lb @ 4900 RPM (1.32 ft-lb/ci)
10.4:1 CR
37 degrees ignition timing
Dart iron eagle block
Callies 4340 steel crank
Manley I-beam 6.0" rods
JE forged pistons w/ Federal-Mogul rings
Moroso oil pump and pan
Crane solid roller 240/248@.050, .543/.561, 110 LSA
Crane Gold Race 1.5 rockers
Dart Pro 1 CNC 215 cc heads, 2.05/1.6 valves
Edelbrock Super Victor intake
Mighy Demon 750cfm
MSD 6AL
1 3/4 Headmans with 2 1/2 exhaust, Borla Pro XS
from 3000-6100rpm, this thing doesnt get under 450 ft-lbs!
I think Ive found me a motor
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
im wonderin though if the block itself really makes a difference, compared to stock. both iron. what cha think? thats pretty much what I got to start with, and ive already got money into the machine work on it.
#6
TGO Supporter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Grand Rapids, MI
Posts: 4,803
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Car: Z28
Engine: Sb2.2 406
Transmission: Jerico 4 speed
Axle/Gears: Ford 9" 3.60
It's not the material, it's how it's made. A factory block is "lazy." It's designed to be produced en masse. The aftermarket block has much better tolerances, better design, more carefully designed, it's just a better block. Better for any real performance engine. Though, it isn't 100% needed.
#7
Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Posts: 340
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1984 Camaro on steroids/ 1987 iroc-z28 5 speed.
Engine: 383 nitrous motor / poindexter 305
Transmission: Th350
about 8k for mine minus dart block and CNC heads, so add another 2 grand to it. Your lookin at almost 10k into a motor.
here it is,
here it is,
Trending Topics
#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
I now thinkin about swapping the cam that I had originally thought off. from the xe268h to the xe274h. The one the got in the mag im lookin at has a longer duration and more lift, so maybe the xe274 wud be good enuf for me.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
well, im was just usin that as a baseline. Man, im still debating on how I wanna build this motor. budget 383 to get the damn RS rollin, or spendin the proper time and money and buildin a stout motor for a car that I paid $500 for
But either way, its gonna cost me. I put some numbers together and came up with about $3800 not including ignition, exhaust, carb, rockers, heads, intake and misc crap. But, that is with a retro T56 as well.
But either way, its gonna cost me. I put some numbers together and came up with about $3800 not including ignition, exhaust, carb, rockers, heads, intake and misc crap. But, that is with a retro T56 as well.
#11
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Valley of the Sun
Posts: 3,852
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
The Dart Pro 1 CNC 215 cc heads are awesome heads, they flow nearly 300cfm at .600" But more importantly, these heads crank out some impressive flow numbers at 0.300- and 0.400-inch lift.
#12
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: bayville, nj
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally posted by spills
spendin the proper time and money and buildin a stout motor for a car that I paid $500 for
spendin the proper time and money and buildin a stout motor for a car that I paid $500 for
i'd be interested to see you get away with the above motor for $3800. more interesting, though, i think, would be where you are going to cut corners to save money. can you elaborate?
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
well, the figures i put 2gether was before i saw the buildup. My costs incluce the cheap-o powerhouse stroker kit with cr3 rods and 1 piece crank, cam, AFPR, cam kit with lifters, button and bolts, CF DF clutchkit, retroT56 trans and aluminum flywheel. The rest Im still verrrry undecided on, which is why I was thinkin about this build up. This seems to be s very nice set up.
As far as cutting corners, i might go by the mag's set up and then just with some-what cheapers parts (ie. dart block).
As far as cutting corners, i might go by the mag's set up and then just with some-what cheapers parts (ie. dart block).
#14
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2000
Location: chicago
Posts: 689
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Then go for it. Heads are weak compared to what they could have used.
what heads are better???
As far as cutting corners, i might go by the mag's set up and then just with some-what cheapers parts (ie. dart block).
i dont trust magazines.They will make anything sound good.So if i were u id go for the opinion from a few not one performance shops/machine shop ,about your combo.
#15
Supreme Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 1,770
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '85 IROC
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700 R4
By the time you're done with all the shortcuts you'll be building the same combo that's been posted here by so many guys that it's etched on my screen.
You could have done a search, and saved yourself the trouble of having to read that article, and then having to figure out how to make it affordable.
You could have done a search, and saved yourself the trouble of having to read that article, and then having to figure out how to make it affordable.
#16
Supreme Member
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Pueblo Co
Posts: 3,974
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
You know if I had that kind of cash to spend on an engine I'd just buy an already built, broken in and dyno'd SB 454. But thats just me.
#17
Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Buford, GA
Posts: 996
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 89 RS
Engine: 6.3L Megasquirted HSR
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 Posi 9 bolt
guys guys, im stil undecided as to what EXACTLY I want to do with the motor part. Its more than likely gonna be a budget 383 like everyone else on here, but in my case thats right up my ally since this is the first motor Ive rebuilt by myself. and rebuildin a 350 IMHO just aint worth it, 383 is the way im goin
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LT1Formula
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
7
08-20-2015 09:36 PM