curtis84ta

part one is the carb, my secondaries won't open. wondering if theres something i can do to maket he secondaries open/work. its a q-jet rochester. also when i drive aggresively or press the gas so the revs go up theres black smoke that comes out the tails. is that because the carb is running lean because the engine runs at like 115 degrees

2nd i don't know if its tranny probs or what but at normal cruising it shifts through the gears fine. but when i hammer it it revs up to 5000 rpm and struggles to shift into 3rd. it slows down a little bit before shifting into third. the tranny fluid is fine i checked that.
its a 700R4 tranny.

by the way i used to have a 305 until i had a 350 put in.

the engine specs

Block #14010209...350...80-85
Heads #3970126....67-71...327/350
Crank's Turned
Rod's resized
0.60 over -- new Ring's & Bushings
Flat Top Piston's
Block's Decked
Screw in Stud's & Guide Plates
Edelbrock Performer intake
New Oil Pump & pan
Double Roller timeing Chain and new timeing cover
New Harmonic Balancer
Alum Full Rollor Rockers
327/350 Hp Cam -- Advanced 4`


thats the engine that was put in, it seems like its the same speed as the 305. suggestions? or help?

RB83L69

Why do you think the secondaries don't work?

Probably the reason it doesn't run very good, is the 151 cam, and the 2-barrel heads. Yuck. I have no idea how the factory ever got the nerve to call that 151 POS "350 HP"; if I was the betting kind, I believe I'd bet money that you could build that so-called "327/350" motor out of those exact parts, cam included, and it wouldn't break the 275 HP mark. Those low-flow large chamber heads make it even worse.

curtis84ta

[quote] Why do you think the secondaries don't work? [\quote]



the valves don't open nor does anything go in when you press the gas like ive tried revving high and nothing they won't open. i manally opened em up and nothing is going on underneath

curtis84ta

also what cam/heads would you recommend to make decent power?

ljnowell

If you are expecting a hit like N20 from the secondaries it wont happen. BUT, to answer some other questions, just about any heads. If you search you will find LOTS of threads on heads. Look for something from the TPI era, I think 083, 416, etc. YOu can also get some good deals on aftermarkets right now. Look around, and decide what is in your price range. As far as a cam, that one is pathetic. Incredibly slow ramp rates. Something a little more aggressive would help a lot. The Comp cams XE grinds seem to be real popular right now. Also, if you are going to run production heads, look for something in a dual pattern, with a healthy split in favor of the exhaust (Something that I should have done).

curtis84ta

Comp Cams "Extreme" Hydraulic Roller Camshaft, 212 / 218, .488 / .495 112 LSA, Mild performance applications, very good mid-range, 3.23-3.73 gears

63-08-502-8 Comp Cams "Extreme" Hydraulic Roller Camshaft, 218 / 224, .495 / .502 112 LSA, High performance application, largest with stock converter, noticeable idle

63-08-503-8 Comp Cams "Extreme" Hydraulic Roller Camshaft, 224 / 230, .502 / .510 112 LSA, High performance street machines, 2000+ stall, gears, choppy idle


would any one of those be ok? i was thinking probably either the 1st or 2nd one leaning towards the first choice would that be a good setup?

RB83L69

If you're talking about revving the car in neutral and looking at the air valve (the part you can see up on top), than you're right, it wil never open. It's not supposed to. Only when the motor is under a load, and at high enough RPM to require air flow through it. The throttle blades underneath are mechanically operated; if you turn the engine off, and have somebody floor the throttle, you should be able to see the secondary throttle linkage operating, and if you open the air valve by hand, you'll see the blades opening. If the throttles open, and the air valve requires less than a pound or so of force to open it, then they're working; and they'll open when they're supposed to.

Flat-top pistons and 64cc heads are a great combo for a street motor. The older double-hump heads WITH ACCESSORY BOLT HOLES, or L98 heads (083 casting), are the best stock ones for that setup; or the Vortec heads, casting 906 or 062 although those will require an intake change. I would not put any of the 305 heads such a motor; that would include 416 and 081. No swirl-ports of course (193 casting) or any 70s smoggers like 882 or 624 or 993.

Since you have a non-roller block, you probably will want to stick with a flat-tappet cam; unless you are looking to spend $600 or so on a roller conversion. A Comp XE262 or XE268 would be good with any of the heads mentioned above. If you get something on there with LOTS of flow, like ported Vortecs or aftermarket heads, the XE274 might be good.