engine refreshing...
#1
engine refreshing...
Is honing re-ringing and main and rod bearings a good idea for a mid life lt1? i was going to do it just as a refresher. on another note .. can you use stock retainers with aftermarket springs??
#2
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Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
Re: engine refreshing...
Originally posted by NoUseAbleNames
Is honing re-ringing and main and rod bearings a good idea for a mid life lt1? i was going to do it just as a refresher. on another note .. can you use stock retainers with aftermarket springs??
Is honing re-ringing and main and rod bearings a good idea for a mid life lt1? i was going to do it just as a refresher. on another note .. can you use stock retainers with aftermarket springs??
is it smokeing ??
making noises ???
loosing power ???
very high mileage ??
#3
well its a short block i bought and while its out it seems like a good idea. i was told it has 50k on it but i want to make sure its fresh and reliable. the heads are already done it just seems like a good idea to refresh the bottom of it.plus im putting in a cc306 and need the extra insurance. im using high lift springs too and need to know if i can get away with the stock retainers.
thanks
thanks
#4
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Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
yeah you might as well go ahead and refreshen it while its out if you have the money
and if you have the cash to do that why skimp on the retainers for the springs why not go ahead and get a new set while your at it they arent that expensive
and if you have the cash to do that why skimp on the retainers for the springs why not go ahead and get a new set while your at it they arent that expensive
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Car: 1984 Z28 Camaro
Engine: H.O. 355 NOS
Transmission: 700R4
Well, most stock valve spring retainers are made to be used with valve spring oil shields. If you don't use the shields the stock retainers are to small and don't fit the inside dia. of the aftermarket spring. This will allow to much clearance between the sp. and retainer allowing the spring to move around. Most aftermarket spring setups don't use the sp. oil shields so its always a good idea to buy the retainer thats made for that sp.
Auggie
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#8
Valve springs and 10 deg. locks from AFR 195 heads, ...would these work? they are the same srings that they sell to go on a lt1 head Here's the specs on the springs straight from the AFR website.
1.450" OD Hydraulic Dual Valve Spring, 120 lbs. on seat, .550" maximum lift.
I'm not sure how big my spring pockets are on a LT1 head but there are the
facts from AFR. but not sure if that helps.
1.450" OD Hydraulic Dual Valve Spring, 120 lbs. on seat, .550" maximum lift.
I'm not sure how big my spring pockets are on a LT1 head but there are the
facts from AFR. but not sure if that helps.
#9
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Car: 1984 Z28 Camaro
Engine: H.O. 355 NOS
Transmission: 700R4
Well, the dia. of a stock sp. is 1.250". What are the spec's of your Comp Cams 306?? Is this a hdy, solid or a roller cam?? What is this eng. going to be used for?? With a seat pressure of #120 what is the over the nose pressure?? If you are going to use this set up for the street your over the nose pressures should not be over #300 for a flat tappet cam to get a reasonable life out of that cam. If its a roller there should be no problem.
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