Turbo?Super?Stroker?
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Car: 87 Trans am
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: built 700R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt posi w/ disc
Turbo?Super?Stroker?
alright ive come to the conclusion that i need some kind of big power. i want one of the 3 in the title....the car is carbureted, and i can change to TPI for 900 installed. but im not sure i want that... a stroker is gonna be the cheapest because i wont need a new radiator right away, or anything else for that matter, itll all go to the internals. someone help me out here, can i run a procharger from a carb? or is the stroker the best way to get power?
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Stroker would be a simple way to go like you said and alot less engine bay clutter with pipes and tubes, but you wont be able to match the power of a super charger or turbo for that matter with a N/A unless you go hog wild. A procharger would be a great way to go since you can still drive the car if something in the charger should fail and yes you can run a carb with a procharger/turbo. They have a hat that bolts onto the carb where you breather usually bolts onto. Key with whatever you do is matching up componenets so the entire package works together.
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Car: 87 Trans am
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: built 700R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt posi w/ disc
i know none of this will be cheap, and the stroker would be the cheapet out of them, but for a procharger withthe carb thing, how much am i looking at? i think im goign to do my body first, then do engine...as a matter of fact, how much would any of this be?
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Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears
What do you want out of the car. The stroker will be an easier daily driver IMO, and a supercharger would be less driver friendly on a daily basis.
What do you want out of the setup? Track times? Power?
What do you want out of the setup? Track times? Power?
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Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
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Car: 1989 C4
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 307
Originally posted by Chris89GTA
What do you want out of the car. The stroker will be an easier daily driver IMO, and a supercharger would be less driver friendly on a daily basis.
What do you want out of the setup? Track times? Power?
What do you want out of the car. The stroker will be an easier daily driver IMO, and a supercharger would be less driver friendly on a daily basis.
What do you want out of the setup? Track times? Power?
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Car: 71 Skylark
Engine: BBB-430
Transmission: M20
Originally posted by SSC
For nice bolt on power you need to go back to your roots
http://www.goodvibesracing.com/
For nice bolt on power you need to go back to your roots
http://www.goodvibesracing.com/
In all reality, If you put some sort of forced induction sysytem on your motor, chances are you will need new internals anyhow. If you want it too last, you'll need forged pistons, rods and a forged steel crank. You'll need very good valve springs, and even better valves. Remeber, when your at full boost, the dynamic compression goes through the roof, requiring some serious parts. I'd make the most out of your combo... If your still not satisfied, look into a procharger. And yess, they sell carb friendly supercharger.
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Car: 1982 Pontian TA/2004 Dodge Ram 2500/1977 Lincoln Continental/1972 Plymouth 'Cuda
Engine: 383
Transmission: 350
Well I'll give you my opinion. Like was said earlier, any way you go you are going to need stronger internals, so if you are going to do that, you might was well get a fully balanced stroker rotating assembly. I just bought one and I am in the process of putting it together, along with a lot of other things on the car. Then if you want a power adder to go with it go for it. I'm putting a 150 shot of nitrous on mine To give you a reference, I just bought my stroker kit for about $1100, and that was for a fully balanced rotating assembly (fly wheel, harmonic balancer, rods, forged pistons, and crank. You can buy kits cheaper but they usually aren't balanced, and you still have to get a fly wheel and harmonic balancer on your own. When it's all done and on the road I'll let you know how it went.
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Car: 87 Trans am
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: built 700R4
Axle/Gears: BW 9 bolt posi w/ disc
the car is a daily driver, and nothing is going to change that...i need something that is going to fit under the hood, not a wieland...i dont have the money to but a cowl hood right now. Id like to do the stroker because i can keep it all consealed and when vettes pull up next to me, i can run them and they wont know what hit them...i hate when a civic pulls up and revs but i dont want to run and get beat, its sad when the car runs like ****, and right now, wont even start...
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Car: 86 firebird with 98 firebird interi
Engine: pump gas 427sbc Dart Lil M 13.5:1
Transmission: Oldani TH400 w/ BTE 9" convertor
Axle/Gears: 31 spline Moser/full spool/4.11Rich
Word to the wise, even if you buy a balanced rotating assembly, take it to your local machine shop and have it balanced again. Think I'm joking, callyour machine shop and ask them how well the "package" parts usually balance out, 9 out of 10 times it is not what the shop would let go out the door if they were doing the job themselves.
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Car: 1989 Trans Am
Engine: 355 HSR
Transmission: Pro-Built 700r4 w/ 3400 converter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt w/ 3.42 gears
Originally posted by IHI
Word to the wise, even if you buy a balanced rotating assembly, take it to your local machine shop and have it balanced again. Think I'm joking, callyour machine shop and ask them how well the "package" parts usually balance out, 9 out of 10 times it is not what the shop would let go out the door if they were doing the job themselves.
Word to the wise, even if you buy a balanced rotating assembly, take it to your local machine shop and have it balanced again. Think I'm joking, callyour machine shop and ask them how well the "package" parts usually balance out, 9 out of 10 times it is not what the shop would let go out the door if they were doing the job themselves.
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Car: 1982 Pontian TA/2004 Dodge Ram 2500/1977 Lincoln Continental/1972 Plymouth 'Cuda
Engine: 383
Transmission: 350
Yeah I think the stroker would be the cheapest, unless you are going to get a turbo setup off a junk yard diesel truck or something like that.
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