Bobbyz

iTrader: (1)

Ok wonder if anyone can help. im trying to figure out what the specs are for my motor when it was made like hp torque and redline

i went on mortec and this is what i came up with

3970010....302.....69....4...Z-28 Camaro
3970010....327.....69....2...Trucks and industrial
3970010....350...69-80...2 or 4

and for the head i came up with this

3998993....72-73...307/350......75cc chambers
3998993....current..350.........Goodwrench crate motors,"Hecho en Mexico",75cc chambers

and then it was c92 392 or e92 could'nt make out the first letter.

and on the other head these numbers were on it.
482824 or it was 462624 and then 048

basically it tells me nothing like valve size, tourqe redline and if it is 2 or 4 and what it came out of. i was told it was a 350 from a 80 vette but i dunno.

are there any other sites that i can find the info or can ne1 help?

thanks a bunch.

THEGENERAL

you can try www.nastyz28.com

1968-76 3998993 350 1.72 1.5

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Sounds like you got yourself a mongrel. At the time of sale, a lot of them are called a "Vette motor".

Power curve (what you called torque redline) is a function of cam and induction - primarily cam. Without knowing that, it's impossible to guess. Heads will dictate power, and yours aren't very good in that regard.

You can't tell if 2 or 4 bolt main from the casting #. You have to pull the pan.

You probably have the basis of a builder, but not much else, I'm afraid.

RB83L69

Why bother with what it was when it was made; it was (and is, and will be) garbage, put together like that.

Odds are, it had a matching set of one kind or the other of those pitiful smogger heads and the 929 cam, and most likely a 2-barrel carb. So I'd guess, just from my all-too-fresh memory of such things, that it was probably about 160-165 HP, and around 280-290 ft-lbs. The whole concept of "redline" doesn't apply to such a motor, because the induction system is incapable of supporting enough flow for it to turn enough RPMs to hurt anything. It probably made peak HP at around 3600-3800 RPM, and peak torque at around 2800-3000 RPM.

It's amazing the crap that people will claim is "from a Vette". That's got to be the most often used sucker bait in the whole universe of hot-rodding. Sounds romantic, partially true ("Well, they did put 350s in Vettes, didn't they??"), difficult to disprove if the victim isn't familiar with the details.

I hope you didn't pay more than $50 or so for it.

It sounds an awful lot like it's been a truck motor, so there's a possibility (if it's still in its original configuration.... which is anybody's guess) that it might have 4-bolt main caps installed on the block, and might have some one of the types of upgraded rods that they had back then, and possibly even a steel crank. Other than that, it's not a very cherry specimen of the SBC.

Throw the heads and the cam in the trash; if the pistons are still stock, trash them too. Basically you got a possibly worthwhile block, if it hasn't already been bored .060" or something; and maybe a set of rods and a crank; some bolts; and not much else.

But, a block is pretty much a block, as far as build-up potential goes; so if it isn't already used up by being bored out to the max, it's a good starting point.

Bobbyz

iTrader: (1)

Yeah i pretty much know the motor is crap but i wanted to see what the hell it was and what it had back then.

i plan on rebuilding it most likley.

i've been told that the 010 block was a good nickel block to build but who knows.

thanks

RB83L69

It's alot more important, with a block, what its bore is and what sort of condition it's in otherwise and how much core shift it has and whether it has The Starter Bolt Hole Problem or The Lifter Bore Problem or some one of the other quality-contol issues that were rampant in the '70s, than what casting # it is. Pretty much, a block is a block is a block is a block as far as being the foundation for a buildup. There's virtually zero advantage to any particular 350 casting over any other.

The 010 is one of the most common 350 block castings of them all. There is very little significance to that. Basically all of this drivel you see in magazines about "nickel content" doesn't make the slightest difference in the real world. If it passes all of the tests that really do matter, it'll work fine for you. If it doesn't, like if it's already .060" over or it has one of The Problems that '70s blocks had or has some critical part damaged like a spun main bearing or needs a sleeve or something like that that costs more to fix than it costs to go to the junkyard and get another block, then it doesn't matter if it's cast from platinum/iridium alloy, it's no good for a buildup.

And of course, you might still find, if you haven't torn it down yet, that it has some of those other goodies in it, which would be a nice bonus if you're planning on re-using them.

Good luck!!!!