pvt num 11

I tried searching for a guide for rebuilding an engine for longevity and quality (be it for stock use or for full-tilt race) but didn't come up with much. What goes into an engine rebuild in terms of parts and labor? Don't need dollar vaules, just a detailed list of what goes on, even the nitty-gritty details that most people overlook. ESPECIALLY the nitty-gritty actually... Opinions count, too! Thanks.

RB83L69

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=252448 Look here for a few, and why to follow them

blacksheep-1

There's about a million opinions on how to rebuild an engine and what is exactly a "rebuild". I have had much success taking engines that I've known the history of, had good oil pressure, fairly low miles, and just honed the cylinders and replaced the mains/rods/ rings/oil pump/cam/timing chain/gaskets/valve job and sent them on their way. Is this engine rebuilt? no-way, freshened up might be a better word. Some guys tear engines down and have every part blueprinted/balanced/all new internals/roller cam/roller rockers/aluminum heads/etc. is this rebuilt? absolutely, but all of that may not be necessary for your application, especially if it's a street engine. There are several good books on rebuilding the SBC, Jenkins wrote one awhile back, Vizard(spl) did, and so did Yunick. I think everybody would agree that it would be easier to show you how to do it than tell you, you may want to hook up with a local racer or car-guy and get some experience. It's not a real big deal, but I'll tell you, screwing up the details will kill you. whether it's mismatched parts or improper break-in procedures. The bottom line is, there's too much info for a forum, the best we can do is send you in the right direction.

pvt num 11

Yeah, RB, I read that post, that's why I asked actually, rather then hijack his thread. I understand that there's a difference between taking a low-mileage motor and freshening it up for a street car and taking a high-mileage monster and making a full-blown race motor with nitrous and boost for a six-second drag car. I can imagine the levels of detail, like get it align bored (did I get that one right), decked, torque-plate honed, checked for cracks, cleaned really really well and then it gets a bit fuzzy for me, and that's just for the BLOCK! I have one of the HPBooks about engine rebuilding, and it opened my eyes on several issues, but it didn't get into much details, at least, for the street-rodder, stuff was more general and even covered stuff about Winston-Cup engines and NASCAR, which does not interest me at all. Tell me some horror stories so I can learn from everyones mistakes, and how to prevent it.

kevinc

Here's a few:

Newbie wanna be engine builder doesn't go buy a book or two on engine building, reads a bunch of Internet mis-info and tries his luck...

...or doesn't invest the major $$ in precision measuring tools, accurate torque wrench, etc. that it takes to build an engine...

...or doesn't degree his cam, installs the timing set wrong, and can't figure out why his engine won't start or won't make power...

It goes on from there. If a few $20 books from Vizard and crew, and around $300 in micrometers and torque wrench are too much for ya, stop now and start investigating machine shops.

StealthElephant

The second the guy who built my engine started using a hammer to fix the oilpan I should have just stopped and taken my parts to a professional.

Sitting Bull

It is a LOT easier to just buy a rebuilt shortblock from a REPUTABLE local rebuilder than it is to do everything yourself. Saves a fair chunk of change in the long run, especially if you don't have the right tools.

But if this is a knowledge quest keep asking questions. Some of the BEST brains with Chevrolet smallblocks are on this board

Morley

One of the most over looked items would be the freeze plugs...replace ALL of them and spend the extra $5 and get brass ones. And for the small ones, tap the holes for pipe plugs and install them with permatex pipe thread sealer.

urbanhunter44

iTrader: (3)

MAKE SURE that every bolt is at exactly the correct torque! More is NOT always better! I learned that the hard way

Stekman

Sorry, I'm not an experienced engine builder. But i will give my observations from spending many many many saturdays in the shop when i was younger.

I think one of the biggest things that can go into an engine is planning. That goes for any application, street, race, or otherwise. Planning on what parts you want to use, how you want to assemble them, everything. A properly planned engine will function more efficiently and overall, better as a whole then a poorly planned or simply tossed together engine.

As for the parts, it's the little things that lead to longetivity IMO. Make sure the block is THOUROUGHLY THOUROUGHLY cleaned after it's been machined. Check and triple check the bearing clearances. Go over all the ring gaps. Make sure they are spaced properly. Make sure sealant is where it should be and isn't where it isn't. Make sure the oil pump pickup is at proper height from the pan and is securily attached to the pump. Too me, those types of things are what seperates a block that goes together and stays together from a block that gets built and rebuild time and time again.

ede

i'm more of a dumbass than experienced engine builder, but i'll jump in anyway. like has been said, if you're going to do it buy a manual so you don't have to come here asking for a spec and trusting someone you don't know. spend the money on some good quality tools, hand tools plus the torque wrenches, mics, depth gages, bore gage, and everything else you need to check the parts with. plasti gage should NOT be part of your tool box. don't skimp on machine work or parts. cheapers isn't better just like the most expensive isn't either. think and research the parts you use, or want to use. clean everything and when you're done start over and clean it again.

pvt num 11

I had gathered already that painful meticulous attention to detail seems to prevent stupid failures. I work on the Navy's Heavy MK 48 torpedos, and I've had a hand in building a few of these 700Hp-2000ft/lbs mosters (really WIERD engine, if you ask me) but it's totally apples and oranges here. We don't even know for certain how much displacement these things have, but we all think it's around 90-something cubes. Runs off of Otto Fuel, mono-propellant, nasty stuff. Anyway...

Thanks for the input, I'll remember that for when I do my rebuild in the next few years. I'm interested in a 383 stroker with some form of aftermarket TPI set-up, haven't decided to go with the HSR or Miniram, or Edelbrock's setup. If Ihave my own house at that point, I'll do most of the work there, besides the actual block machine work.