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Seafoam = ******* mobile

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Old 07-17-2004 | 06:14 PM
  #1  
pasky's Avatar
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Seafoam = ******* mobile

Just poured half the bottle into a cup and sucked it up through the brake booster vacuum line. Other 1/2 goes into the oil. Im running full synthetic and will just change it out next week.

Anyways, talk about a crapload of smoke coming out of the tail pipe. I took it to the loop around here and beat the car and nothing but smoke coming out for a little bit. Everyone was looking at me like I had a ******* mobile. Hahaha, great stuff! Throttle feels a lot more crisp.
Old 07-17-2004 | 06:53 PM
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From: Goose Creek, SC
Car: 1987 Camaro IROC Z-28
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
I've never heard of what you're using. What's it do?
Old 07-17-2004 | 06:55 PM
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Cleans out all the carbon deposits.
Old 07-17-2004 | 09:48 PM
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Wow, thought more people used it. Stuff is great, im thinking of buying another pint and throwing it in the gas tank next . Should have seen the giant cloud come out of the exhaust.
Old 07-17-2004 | 09:58 PM
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From: Pensacola, FL
Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
Hope you have a new fuel filter ready to go in.
Old 07-17-2004 | 10:05 PM
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Sure do .
Old 07-17-2004 | 10:08 PM
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From: Pensacola, FL
Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
I might give this stuff a try... so basically you can use it in the gas tank and on vacuum lines and whatnot?

I've tried STP Total Fuel System Cleaner and it didn't seem to do anything.
Old 07-17-2004 | 10:08 PM
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I have heard of people putting it in there intake or through any vacuum line. But I have never heard of anyone putting it in their oil or there gas tank. Why would you even do that?
Old 07-17-2004 | 10:12 PM
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From: dallas,tx
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: tree-fiddy
Transmission: 700r4
Ahh Sea Foam, cleans out your intake system and fogs out mesquitos.
Old 07-17-2004 | 10:13 PM
  #10  
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Originally posted by jfreeman74
I have heard of people putting it in there intake or through any vacuum line. But I have never heard of anyone putting it in their oil or there gas tank. Why would you even do that?
Get rid of water and clean the oil gum cavities. Kinda like diesel fuel. Be sure to change your oil shortly after.
Old 07-17-2004 | 10:21 PM
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From: Pensacola, FL
Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
Is it safe to drive the car around with it in your oil? I don't want to damage the engine as it's already on it's last leg (LG4 w/ 153,00 miles--smokes on start) but I'm changing my oil within the next 900 miles. Can you get the same benefits from changing the oil right after you put the stuff in (assuming that the car will be driven around to allow it to circulate)? I just don't feel comfortable leaving something in the oil for a few days other than the oil itself.

Also, where would be the best place to suck it up via vacuum lines? Or does it even matter?
Old 07-17-2004 | 10:25 PM
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Im driving around with the crap in the oil. You wanna use 1/2 a pint (the can it comes in) in the oil 1/2 in the vacuum line. I had my father-in-law hold the gas when I unhooked the brake booster line and poured the seafoam in a cup and just sucked it up slowly through that. Then I poured the rest in the oil. meh, nothing wrong with mine, I just checked my oil and been doing so everytime It urn the car off, just dandy. Gonna change it next week.
Old 07-17-2004 | 10:49 PM
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when you put it through the brake booster line, where does the seafoam go through?

So what all can you put it in? Gas tank, intake, oil...
Damn, I'm getting eager to try this.
Would it screw up injectors or would the carbon like clog up infront of the CAT and restrict the exhaust or anything?
Old 07-17-2004 | 11:01 PM
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Its a possiblity it will kill your O2's and CAt, might wanna disconnect them. If you got a lot of carbon coming out it may clog them. Other than that, its all good.
Old 07-17-2004 | 11:16 PM
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sigh.. that sucks.. My O2 simply will not come off.. It's welded itself into the exhaust manifold... I assume the CAT is welded too
Old 07-17-2004 | 11:25 PM
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Go to a GM dealer and ask them for some top engine cleaner. It says it is cat and O2 safe. I am pretty sure it is the same thing as Seafoam though.
Old 07-17-2004 | 11:49 PM
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Originally posted by jfreeman74
Go to a GM dealer and ask them for some top engine cleaner. It says it is cat and O2 safe. I am pretty sure it is the same thing as Seafoam though.
Exact same stuff, the seafoam is o2 and gas safe also, says so on the can. Its the carbon it breaks up that may ruin them .
Old 07-18-2004 | 12:02 AM
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From: Pensacola, FL
Car: 1999 Saturn SL2
Engine: 4 cylinder
Transmission: 4-speed automatic
Originally posted by pasky
Im driving around with the crap in the oil. You wanna use 1/2 a pint (the can it comes in) in the oil 1/2 in the vacuum line. I had my father-in-law hold the gas when I unhooked the brake booster line and poured the seafoam in a cup and just sucked it up slowly through that. Then I poured the rest in the oil. meh, nothing wrong with mine, I just checked my oil and been doing so everytime It urn the car off, just dandy. Gonna change it next week.
Alright, thanks for the info. However, just to be on the safe side, I think I will just run it around the block until it stops smoking then change the oil. I'm so nervous about stuff like that.
Old 07-18-2004 | 12:34 AM
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.. well what are you guy's opinions.. my car is an 87 IROC, 350 TPI.. It has atleast 140,000 miles i think.. 12mpg currently..

I won't be able to change the O2 sensor or take off the cat

think i should chance it or what?
Old 07-18-2004 | 11:22 AM
  #20  
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From: dallas,tx
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: tree-fiddy
Transmission: 700r4
do it, when it says it is O2 and cat safe, it means the carbon it removes will not affect them either. The reason it works is because it breaks the carbon up and basically, changes it so that it doesn't stick, which is why you get the huge cloud of smoke out the tail pipes.

Sea Foam also makes a transmission additive that you should put in if your tranny is acting funny, IE small slips and stuff, not thing like not working at all, then change the fluid after about 100 miles or so.
Old 07-18-2004 | 11:25 AM
  #21  
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Don't blame me. YOU asked for opinions.

Of course SeaFoam works. Water injection has been known to help remove combustion chamber deposits for decades. I wouldn't advocate pouring it into a fuel tank or crankcase, however.

For those of you who are using synthetic lubricants, and have used SeaFoam in the crankcase... shame on you. You have already recognized the superior lubricity and cleaning benefits of polyalphaolefin, and then apparently resort to a 1936-era technology of refinery waste poured in with the synthetic to "help" the situation. I could understand it if you were using Pennzoil or some other mediocre mineral oil as a crankcase lubricant, but not with synthetic. What's possibly worse is paying $6 for a can for it.

For those who aren't familiar with the SEARCH feature of the board, you might have missed this kind of post:

SeaFoam is basically refinery "waste". About 50% light hydrocarbon oil (pale oil), 30% petroleum naphtha, (charcoal starter fluid/mineral spirits, whatever you want to call it), 10% isopropyl alcohol, and 10% water. With the exception of the alcohol (added to keep the water in an emulsified suspension), the components are the mid- to upper-tier byproducts of hydro cracking useful petroleum products from crude oil. Those that are usually hardest to separate (normally done through a centrifuge) are instead simply sold as a mixture with some alcohol added to keep it volatile and emulsified.

The alcohol mixes with the water(as does the naphtha to some extent) and the "murky" appearance of the liquid is due to the emulsion created by the water/oil mixture forced into suspension by those solvents.

It ain't rocket science - It's barely science at all. But it was a fair bit of marketing back in the '30s when it was first sold. And it's surely no secret.

The sellers and marketers have lots of suggestions for its use, but because of the formulation, I'd never even think of putting it in my engine oil, even though the synthetic would tolerate it a bit more than mineral oils. As for dumping into an intake, plain water injection will do a far superior job of cleaning carbon deposits. As with any liquid administered to an engine, the rate is critical. Too little, and you're really not accomplishing anything. Too much, and you hydro-lock the engine, risking piston, rod, head, and wrist pin damage.

I'd almost guaranty that the majority of the cleaning is done by the water, with a little help from the solvents. You can buy SeaFoam if you'd like, or you can use the hydrocarbon solvents already available (gasoline or gasohol) and water to accomplish the same thing. I've had pretty good success with the 99¢ gallon bottles of windshield washer fluid - That's right, the same stuff you might pour into your washer reservoir. It is a mixture of water and methanol, with a hint of blue dye. The alcohol is flammable and slows the combustion process, as well as helping clean some deposits, and the water in the combustion chamber finishes the task when it explodes into steam. And you can get a whole case of it for the cost of ONE can of oily water, er, SeaFoam.

Personally, I don't buy water and alcohol in $6 steel cans.
Old 07-18-2004 | 02:22 PM
  #22  
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Originally posted by Vader
Don't blame me. YOU asked for opinions.

Of course SeaFoam works. Water injection has been known to help remove combustion chamber deposits for decades. I wouldn't advocate pouring it into a fuel tank or crankcase, however.

For those of you who are using synthetic lubricants, and have used SeaFoam in the crankcase... shame on you. You have already recognized the superior lubricity and cleaning benefits of polyalphaolefin, and then apparently resort to a 1936-era technology of refinery waste poured in with the synthetic to "help" the situation. I could understand it if you were using Pennzoil or some other mediocre mineral oil as a crankcase lubricant, but not with synthetic. What's possibly worse is paying $6 for a can for it.

For those who aren't familiar with the SEARCH feature of the board, you might have missed this kind of post:

SeaFoam is basically refinery "waste". About 50% light hydrocarbon oil (pale oil), 30% petroleum naphtha, (charcoal starter fluid/mineral spirits, whatever you want to call it), 10% isopropyl alcohol, and 10% water. With the exception of the alcohol (added to keep the water in an emulsified suspension), the components are the mid- to upper-tier byproducts of hydro cracking useful petroleum products from crude oil. Those that are usually hardest to separate (normally done through a centrifuge) are instead simply sold as a mixture with some alcohol added to keep it volatile and emulsified.

The alcohol mixes with the water(as does the naphtha to some extent) and the "murky" appearance of the liquid is due to the emulsion created by the water/oil mixture forced into suspension by those solvents.

It ain't rocket science - It's barely science at all. But it was a fair bit of marketing back in the '30s when it was first sold. And it's surely no secret.

The sellers and marketers have lots of suggestions for its use, but because of the formulation, I'd never even think of putting it in my engine oil, even though the synthetic would tolerate it a bit more than mineral oils. As for dumping into an intake, plain water injection will do a far superior job of cleaning carbon deposits. As with any liquid administered to an engine, the rate is critical. Too little, and you're really not accomplishing anything. Too much, and you hydro-lock the engine, risking piston, rod, head, and wrist pin damage.

I'd almost guaranty that the majority of the cleaning is done by the water, with a little help from the solvents. You can buy SeaFoam if you'd like, or you can use the hydrocarbon solvents already available (gasoline or gasohol) and water to accomplish the same thing. I've had pretty good success with the 99¢ gallon bottles of windshield washer fluid - That's right, the same stuff you might pour into your washer reservoir. It is a mixture of water and methanol, with a hint of blue dye. The alcohol is flammable and slows the combustion process, as well as helping clean some deposits, and the water in the combustion chamber finishes the task when it explodes into steam. And you can get a whole case of it for the cost of ONE can of oily water, er, SeaFoam.

Personally, I don't buy water and alcohol in $6 steel cans.
We all don't know the tricks of the trade Vader, but thanks, personally i'd never dream of putting windshield washer fluid through my engine, but if your serious, im willing to give it a try. What I have usually done is drain the oil and run diesel fuel through it for about 5 minutes, drain that and throw in fresh oil. Just thought i'd give this a try since everyone has good results.
Old 07-18-2004 | 02:41 PM
  #23  
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Gee Vader, you're starting to sound like me, ya cheeep bastard!! :lamo:

Paskey, do a search for combustion chamber deposits or something similar. Between Vader and I there should be some really good reading on the chamber cleaning. Water has been used for decades in the manifold. I have a really good post somewhere explaining the why. ATF has been used (but not much in CC cars) and is pretty good for the crankcase as well. Do a search for that as well.

Seafoam is very popular in the Bike crowd. Can't tell you how many times I've gotten dirty looks when I go one to explain why what works.
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