What the crap is going on? I have edelbrock heads with valve springs capable of handling .575" lift and I have comp cam magnum 1.6 ratio roller tip rockers with a comp cam 274* extreme energy cam with .487 and .490 lifts.....Here is the kicker I have pushrods that are made by proform which are .100" longer than stock pushrods but heat treat for use with guideplates. I am pretty sure that I didnt overtighten the rockers. What could it be? I went with the .100" longer rods cause pretty much everywhere I looked suggested using them. Can anyone help me?

 

What exactly do you mean by "pretty sure"?

 

Did you use a lengthe checker to verify that you needed .100" longer?

It doesn't matter WHO suggests using what pushrods. If your engine doesn't need them, don't get them. If it does, then fine. Valve train geometry is something i don't like to go by 'suggestions' on. I go by what my engine needs.

 

i am pretty sure cause of the fact that I set them with the car running and I loosened them up till they made alittle chatter and then tightened them down a half a turn.

No I didnt use a pushrod checker, I used my instructions i got from edelbrock that said to get .100" longer rods and i figured seeing as how they were there heads they knew what it took.

Its been about 5 weeks since I first fired this engine up and this is the first sign of problems.

 

don't get huffy now, I've heard it too many times "I'm pretty sure there's gas in there" or "I'm pretty sure I tightened that bolt"...you get the idea. Just need to know that all parts have been assembled and adjusted correctly.

What Edelbrock heads do you have and are they capable of handling .623 lift?

oops...mistype, meant to say .523 lift. I would think they would be but with the longer pushrod it needs to be asked.

Shouldn't try to do too mant things at once.

 

Sorry man I am just frustrated with the car. I have the edelbrock aluminum rpm heads with springs up to .575" lifts...


my lifts shouldnt be .623".......

 

What about piston to valve clearance?

 

mistype, I already edited it to say .523

How about intake manifold bolts. I have seen people use ones a tad longer which can interfere with the pushrods.

Does this happen to all pushrods or just certain ones?

 

so far its only happened to the first #1 valve and both #7 valves.

I thought about the intake bolts but they are the same ones I have always used with no problems before...

I think I am gonna get a pushrod checker and get some good quality pushrods instead of these cheapy proform rods.

 

The only things I would guess at is possibly the slight geometry change with the longer pushrods may possibly be interfering with the guideplates (I assume you have them) or you have a close piston to valve clearance and your kissing a piston somewhere up in the revs.

Did you check the piston to valve clearance when the engine was assembled?

The longer pushrod would not give more lift, all it would do is change the orientation of how it interfaces with the rocker arm.

 

Piston to valve clearence was fine when I checked it....

I dont know what it could be thats why I am gonna get a pushrod length checker and check it and then get HIGH QUALITY rods instead of these $20 for 16 proform rods.

 

Tip centered on valve stem? Have guide plates? Non-aligning rockers? Little things always kill ya. Another vote for the pushrod checker.

 

Yes I have guideplates, I have non aligning rockers and tips centered on valve stem.

 

i understand the heads are new and from a good company but if its the same ones every time it might not hurt to check for a bind in the valve stem ... or check to see if they might be bent ... tao

 

I have had a total of 3 now that have been bent. But there all different.