What do I need to know about 383 stroker kits to do one?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
What do I need to know about 383 stroker kits to do one?
What do I need to know about 383 stroker kits to do one?
What's a decent price for a 383 kit with cast crank and hyperuretic pistions?
Going to a car show this weekend, may have a chance to score one, what should I look for and look out for?
------------------
91 RS Camaro 305TBI w/198,500 miles
99 TransAm
72 Vette
What's a decent price for a 383 kit with cast crank and hyperuretic pistions?
Going to a car show this weekend, may have a chance to score one, what should I look for and look out for?
------------------
91 RS Camaro 305TBI w/198,500 miles
99 TransAm
72 Vette
#2
Supreme Member
Feels like everyone's doing a 383 this year. Last year it was the 400, now the 383 is "THE" engine.
Anywho, There's only a few things you need to know, byond a typical 350 rebuild to do a 383:
1. Internal or external balance. Most inexpensive street kits are EXternal balanced so you have to use externally balanced (400) flexplate/flywheel and harmonic dampener, not usually supplied as part of the kit. If it's internal balanced you can use regualr ole 350 balancers and stuff.
2. What length rods? The real cheap kits give you stock 400 "shortie" rods that can take regular (cheap) 350 compression height pistons and sometimes fit in the bottom end of the motor without any mods to the block (more on that later). Most kits, however, use standard SBC 5.7" rods which require 383 specific pistons. Ditto the even higher dollar kits that use 6" rods.
Due to #1 & 2 above, you should buy a complete kit so that all the stuff matches for sure. Also, if you buy a complete kit it can be balanced as an assembly before they ship it to you.
3. You will have to modify your block so all this stuff fits in the bottom end (yes, grinding will be involved). If you don't buy a complete assembled short block you will have to either do this yourself or give the block and kit to a local machine shop to do for you. The rod bolts will hit at the bottoms of the bores and possibly other places depending on your particular combination of parts.
You can buy a cheap kit from Speed-o-Motive for about $500 with what you will need to convert a 350 to a 383 (uses short 5.56" rods). They have many other kits. Just be careful dealing with them- customer support is bad and they don't include ANY extras that you might otherwise expect would be included.
[This message has been edited by Damon (edited April 05, 2001).]
Anywho, There's only a few things you need to know, byond a typical 350 rebuild to do a 383:
1. Internal or external balance. Most inexpensive street kits are EXternal balanced so you have to use externally balanced (400) flexplate/flywheel and harmonic dampener, not usually supplied as part of the kit. If it's internal balanced you can use regualr ole 350 balancers and stuff.
2. What length rods? The real cheap kits give you stock 400 "shortie" rods that can take regular (cheap) 350 compression height pistons and sometimes fit in the bottom end of the motor without any mods to the block (more on that later). Most kits, however, use standard SBC 5.7" rods which require 383 specific pistons. Ditto the even higher dollar kits that use 6" rods.
Due to #1 & 2 above, you should buy a complete kit so that all the stuff matches for sure. Also, if you buy a complete kit it can be balanced as an assembly before they ship it to you.
3. You will have to modify your block so all this stuff fits in the bottom end (yes, grinding will be involved). If you don't buy a complete assembled short block you will have to either do this yourself or give the block and kit to a local machine shop to do for you. The rod bolts will hit at the bottoms of the bores and possibly other places depending on your particular combination of parts.
You can buy a cheap kit from Speed-o-Motive for about $500 with what you will need to convert a 350 to a 383 (uses short 5.56" rods). They have many other kits. Just be careful dealing with them- customer support is bad and they don't include ANY extras that you might otherwise expect would be included.
[This message has been edited by Damon (edited April 05, 2001).]
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Damon,
Thanks for the tip, I didn't exactly get a warm an fuzzy feeling when I talked with Speed-O-Motive about the 383. I've read similar else where to regarding their kits.
As to a 400, would be nice, I wanted to so that but if seem like it would end up costing more, I've got the 350 block to work with so that what it'll be.
I talked with a reputable local shop, they charge $600 to put the bottom end together excluding machine work and parts, they will do it right. Seem reasonable? Seemed high to me.
I also have been told, a 3.83 crank instead ofthe 3.75 will give a 391 stroker and it will cost the same as the 383. Any thoughts on this?
Thanks for the tip, I didn't exactly get a warm an fuzzy feeling when I talked with Speed-O-Motive about the 383. I've read similar else where to regarding their kits.
As to a 400, would be nice, I wanted to so that but if seem like it would end up costing more, I've got the 350 block to work with so that what it'll be.
I talked with a reputable local shop, they charge $600 to put the bottom end together excluding machine work and parts, they will do it right. Seem reasonable? Seemed high to me.
I also have been told, a 3.83 crank instead ofthe 3.75 will give a 391 stroker and it will cost the same as the 383. Any thoughts on this?
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