PS Pump Belt - How To Put Tension
#1
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 293
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From: United States of America
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TeamTripp Performance
PS Pump Belt - How To Put Tension
My 87 IROC has V-Belts. The power steering pump pulley has two belts on it, on from the crank pulley and another from the crank pulley that continues up to the AC compressor and then the water pump.
My question is how do I get leverage on the PS pump to tighten the first (dedicated) belt that runs from the crank to the pump? I see there is a bolt on each side of the pump that will have to be loosened to slide it toward the driver's side to tighten, but I don't see any place to insert a ratchet or wrench to get enough tension on the belt.
I noticed when I turned on my AC a noisy vibration occurred and I traced it to the hose that runs from the PS pump to the steering gear box. When the compressor runs, the hose ocillates (sp?) and makes the vibrating noise. That is ultimately the problem I am attempting to solve.
My question is how do I get leverage on the PS pump to tighten the first (dedicated) belt that runs from the crank to the pump? I see there is a bolt on each side of the pump that will have to be loosened to slide it toward the driver's side to tighten, but I don't see any place to insert a ratchet or wrench to get enough tension on the belt.
I noticed when I turned on my AC a noisy vibration occurred and I traced it to the hose that runs from the PS pump to the steering gear box. When the compressor runs, the hose ocillates (sp?) and makes the vibrating noise. That is ultimately the problem I am attempting to solve.
#2
Kev,
Ypur '87 is essentially the same as my '86, except that you are lucky enough to have a roller cam installed. The 'V' belt installation is definitelty the same.
BTW - oscillate. That's O.K. I make lots of spelling and keyboarding errors in my haste.
The belts need to be installed and tensioned in a specific order. You need to loosen the A/C belt before you can tension the single PS pump belt. There are four asjustment and one pivot bolt/nuts on the PS pump, as I recall - both on the front and back of the pump brackets. It isn't something you'd want to do all the time, so get it right the first time.
Sorry if it isn't completely clear, but once you get teh other belt out of the way and investigate thoroughly, it is relatively self-explanatory.
As for the shudder from turnong the A/C compressor on, make sure you have all the brackets and braces installed. There was a TSB issued by GM regarding this, and apparently some of the vehicles were assembled without a required brace. You can get a new one or salvage yard replacement (or fabricate your own) if your's is missing. It is the angled brace from the top of the compressor bracket to the exhaust stud in the photo:
Ypur '87 is essentially the same as my '86, except that you are lucky enough to have a roller cam installed. The 'V' belt installation is definitelty the same.
BTW - oscillate. That's O.K. I make lots of spelling and keyboarding errors in my haste.
The belts need to be installed and tensioned in a specific order. You need to loosen the A/C belt before you can tension the single PS pump belt. There are four asjustment and one pivot bolt/nuts on the PS pump, as I recall - both on the front and back of the pump brackets. It isn't something you'd want to do all the time, so get it right the first time.
Sorry if it isn't completely clear, but once you get teh other belt out of the way and investigate thoroughly, it is relatively self-explanatory.
As for the shudder from turnong the A/C compressor on, make sure you have all the brackets and braces installed. There was a TSB issued by GM regarding this, and apparently some of the vehicles were assembled without a required brace. You can get a new one or salvage yard replacement (or fabricate your own) if your's is missing. It is the angled brace from the top of the compressor bracket to the exhaust stud in the photo:
#3
Kev- for super-backyard-cheap-but-effective, you may be interested to know that a common claw hammer or J-shaped crowbar can often be used to CAREFULLY apply leverage to the PS pump bracket. The head of the hammer goes on the top of the steering box and the claw end grabs the PS bracket. Similar arrangement with a crowbar.
If you have one that fits well it doesn't take much force to apply plenty of tension to the belt. You've got plenty of leverage with this method.
Having a friend tighten the bolts while you hold the belt tight makes this much easier.
Never EVER lever against the pump housing itself. You'll punch a hole right through it so fast you'll see stars (followed by dollar signs).
If you have one that fits well it doesn't take much force to apply plenty of tension to the belt. You've got plenty of leverage with this method.
Having a friend tighten the bolts while you hold the belt tight makes this much easier.
Never EVER lever against the pump housing itself. You'll punch a hole right through it so fast you'll see stars (followed by dollar signs).
#4
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Like Damon said, NEVER EVER pry against the pump reservoir; you'll just end up bending it, and it will leak around the O-ring that aseals the pump into the reservoir (about 5" diameter, behind the pulley).
I find it easiest to loosen ALL 3 BOLTS (actually 2 bolts and one nut), and remove the one in the front that goes into the water pump completely. Then I use a tire tool or large prybar or whatever I have convenient, to pry on the little bent-up tang on the bracket right next to that WP adjustment bolt, using the little round tower thing on the WP casting as the fulcrum. I tension the belt that way, and tighten the back bolt up; then put the WP one back in and tighten it, then tighten up the nut on the back down low on the pump.
I find it easiest to loosen ALL 3 BOLTS (actually 2 bolts and one nut), and remove the one in the front that goes into the water pump completely. Then I use a tire tool or large prybar or whatever I have convenient, to pry on the little bent-up tang on the bracket right next to that WP adjustment bolt, using the little round tower thing on the WP casting as the fulcrum. I tension the belt that way, and tighten the back bolt up; then put the WP one back in and tighten it, then tighten up the nut on the back down low on the pump.
#5
Thread Starter
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Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 293
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From: United States of America
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TeamTripp Performance
Great info, thank you. My first attempt to do this has resulted in a noticeable improvement in noise reduction, though some remains.
I loosened the compressor bolts, then the pump nut on the driver’s side (Vader’s 2nd pic) and the bolt in front (3rd pic); the pump belt loosened up, I did not loosen the top bolt (1st pic). I found a place from under the car I could insert a pry bar to safely tension the belt, but could not reach the bolts to tighten from this position, so wedged the bar to keep it in place and tightened from the top. Tightened the compressor belt to about the same tension as the pump belt. Tested, compressor belt was not tight enough; tightened compressor belt, pump belt tension loosened as a result.
Above was done before I read your posts. I had tried Damon’s method but couldn’t get my claw hammer in the correct position, it is too big. I will attempt RB’s method today. I do not have the angle bracket shown in Vader’s 4th pic and unless I have overlooked it, does not show in the Fbody parts catalog. Anybody have a part number?
I loosened the compressor bolts, then the pump nut on the driver’s side (Vader’s 2nd pic) and the bolt in front (3rd pic); the pump belt loosened up, I did not loosen the top bolt (1st pic). I found a place from under the car I could insert a pry bar to safely tension the belt, but could not reach the bolts to tighten from this position, so wedged the bar to keep it in place and tightened from the top. Tightened the compressor belt to about the same tension as the pump belt. Tested, compressor belt was not tight enough; tightened compressor belt, pump belt tension loosened as a result.
Above was done before I read your posts. I had tried Damon’s method but couldn’t get my claw hammer in the correct position, it is too big. I will attempt RB’s method today. I do not have the angle bracket shown in Vader’s 4th pic and unless I have overlooked it, does not show in the Fbody parts catalog. Anybody have a part number?
#6
I pulled mine off and looked for a P/N (it's only a bolt and a nut, anti-seize makes it easy, and is only about five feet from this computer). The only thing I could find is the letter "D" stamped on the lower end. No 7- or 8-digit GM part number. However, if you search for the TSB, you might find the part number included in the repair directions.
In case you wanted to make your own, here is what it looks like:
In case you wanted to make your own, here is what it looks like:
Last edited by Vader; 06-13-2004 at 08:47 PM.
#7
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 293
Likes: 1
From: United States of America
Car: 1987 Chevrolet Camaro Z28 IROC-Z
Engine: L98
Transmission: TeamTripp Performance
Thanks Vader. The TSB is 8734 'A/C Compressor moan or vibration with A/C on' Dec 86. Alldata shows the titles only unless you have a subscription, I may have to get one.
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