Z28z

iTrader: (1)

I running the LPE 211 cam and decided to step up to 1.6 rockers. My lift will be 530/560 with the 1.6s. I know I have to upgrade the springs on my Trick Flows since they are only good for .540. Does anyone have experience with this cam?Which springs would you guys recommend?

SMasterson

I don't have any experience with that camshaft but I'm running a CC306 w1.6 rockers. .544/.576 and use the 1.46" Trick Flow dual springs.

TFS-51400434 Spring Cups, set of 16
TFS-51400423 Retainers, set of 16
TFS-31400414 Valve Springs, set of 16
TFS-51400454 Valve Stem Seals, set of 16

You'll also need a set of +.050 Valve Locks but I
don't have the part number for those because TFS
sent the wrong ones and I bought them at the speed shop.


Works fine for me reving to 7k with hydraulic roller lifters.

Z28z

iTrader: (1)

I checked and see the TrickFlow double springs have an open pressure of 376lbs. I wonder if thats too much for my CC Magnum rockers?

Vader

Comp Pro Mags? Too much pressure? More likely, you'll have to upgrade to 3/8" studs and girdles long before you overstress the Comp CrMo forged rockers. Or are you using a different "Magnum" rocker?

Stekman

Vader,

Comp offers roller tip steel bodied rocker arms that are simply called "Magnum" rocker arms. While they aren't as durable as their full roller brrethren, they are more durable than factory stamped. I dont think any spring rate or pressure presented by a spring designed for a hydraulic cam should pose too much of an issue. Now if it were a solid roller, with springs pressures sitting excess of 200 seat and 500+ open, then perhaps, i'd start to worry. But otherwise, i wouldnt lose sleep over it.

Z28z

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys for your input.

SMasterson

BTW, I know money is always an issue, but if I could swing it I'd go with the Pro Magnums and switch those 3/8's studs for 7/16 ARP's while I was at it. For another $150 you're nearing bullet proof as far as hydraulic roller setups go. Plus the rocker body is guaranteed for life and the rest of it can be rebuilt.

I've got 16 3/8" studs here that came off my TFS heads and I'd bet only half of them are straight! (Note here; I'm not sure I didn't bend some of these when removing the springs with a lever type spring removal tool. It didn't seem like I was putting any unusual pressure on them but when I'd screw them out you could see some were bent.)

I feel secure with the setup I've got now and I've seen what a broken stud can do to an engine. (We race a dirt modified car.)

Z28z

iTrader: (1)

What about running 1.6s on the intake and 1.5s on the exhaust? Or do you guyd think I would be better off running all 1.6s?

RB83L69

I'd suggest checking with TF and making sure your valves won't hit your pistons.... that being a well-known possibility with TF heads; they typically don't need or want the lift, and the valves are positioned (not stock placement) such that they don't have to go as far to meet an obstacle.

Z28z

iTrader: (1)

I'm running the regular 23degree heads not the twisted wedge.