black & gold

Well, I used mobil1 early 1992 when synthetics first came out into the public and got popular my truck had around 25,000 and the oil was changer regularly 3k. also changed my 82 Z28 50,000. both started leaking. I am not mis informed cork gaskets did not do well with mobil 1 when it first came out. You are correct in saying that they have changed the formula, But you guys are answering your own question. HOW MUCH SLUDGE WAS THERE? he just told you that he has a higher mileage engine and dosen't change oil as often as he should. YOU don't think he will have any problems with the switch? I don't know what they have added to the formula since introduction in the early 90's but I can only speak from experiance With mobil 1 . I cannot shoot down synthetic because it is a supperior oil, for the right application. if you change your oil regularly a good motor oil is fine. This is just my opinion. You don't have to use my advise thats why this is America. I just feel that for this paticular application I personally would not switch. BTW we are talking about a OLD smallblock not a new or rebuilt engine, in that case I would say by all means use synthetic. Good Luck whatever you decide.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I suppose the "popular" part could be debated, but AMSOIL started selling in 1971 and Mobil 1 hit the shelves in 1975. I started using ASMOIL in 1983.

Changing the oil every 3000 miles, even if that is only once a year, doesn't qualify for "doesn't change oil as often as he should" if the 3000 miles comes during the summer months and it's stored the rest of the time. Sludge doesn't build up in storage. 105k is hardly "high mileage" these days. He's been using at least in part a quasi-synthetic, which will have better cleaning properties as well.

Run some flush, switch to synthetic, be happy.

Red Devil

He told us it was a high milage engine, but where was it that he told us he did not change his oil as often as he should? If his engine is in good condition, I forsee no problems

As for you, if you are suggesting it was sludge and the syn cleaned it away, you don't think it would still leak after?!?! I added a to your post to clarify what exactly I had a problem with. Typically if it were sludge buildup it would still leak with the switch back. You said that the engine was hemmoraging oil out of every conceivable orifice when you put in syn and it all just stopped when you switched back.

I also took issue with the fact that you were patently telling everyone to not use syn now.

MrDude_1

not to be a ***, and i kinda wanted to avoid posting more in this thread but i just had to say this.


why are you letting oil leaks decide what oil to use?

i dont know what you think oils job is, but to me, its to protect my motor from friction and to do 1/3 of the cooling of the motor.

if the motor leaks. its the seals and gaskets that are to blame. you change your seals and gaskets properly, it stops leaking, and your motor is still getting the best oil it can.


oil leaks should have nothing to do with the oil you choose.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Great point.

One final point (I think phess11 has all the info he needs): If you've put 200k or 400k on an engine that hasn't been rebuilt, using petroleum-based oil, most likely those are highway miles, which aren't nearly as hard on the engine or oil as stop & go, short trip miles.

Now, let's stop all the "I had this happen to me once" talk and each go happily on our own way.

MY Z ROCS

Well, I am no expert or anything, but where I work we DO use oil analysis as part of our preventative maintenance program. And one thing I have always heard is that you should change your oil BEFORE storing it for the winter. This is due to the fact that over time and use oil becomes acidic, this has been substantiated with our oil analysis. I am sure it would depend on usage and how long it has been changed etc. etc. as to the actual amount of acidity present. But irregardless, clean fresh oil sitting in an engine for a long peroid of time should be better than old used acidic oil. Then to be really correct (and ****) you should change it again in the spring, even though this sounds like a complete waste of time. I am not even going to go into the argument of Synthetic vs. conventional oils.

Just my opinion -

Red Devil

Kid, where is the fun in that?!? Party pooper!

My Z, some of the more **** members *cough*Vader*cough* actually do do that when we put some of our vehicles away. It may be ****, but I've had motors worth more than some of the cars on my property. That was why I posted the 3K or 3 mo.

And since we are being ****, irregardless is a double negative. Regardless is stating an irrelevency, irregardless is, well... I'm not even sure. Stating the irrelevency of the irrelevency? It's common though, just like people using an 's' after regard. Only in articlar circumstances is that supposed to happen.

Why the hell am I doing this on an auto tech board? Geez, sorry.

Where the fu*k is my coffee?!?!

MY Z ROCS

Red Devil,

http://dictionary.reference.com/search?q=irregardless

You are quite right, I apologize for using the bastardized form.
As far as the **** part - I do it also. But then again, I have been told I was being **** about it, so I just thought I would forwarn phes11 ahead of time. In my opinion though an ounce of prevention ...

And changing the oil is cheap insurance.

On the other hand I am glad to know that when doing this I am in such esteemed company !!

Red Devil

Esteemed company? Where? WTF?!? You have got to warn me when people like that are coming. I can't spell 'particular' today either.

RJR99SS

A little late to add anything too groundbreaking, but i think people really "overthink" the whole synthetic question. Personally, i think it's one of the best things you can do for any engine.

I recently switched to synthetic in my olds 307 engine, which has anywhere between 80k and 160k miles on it. I knew going into it that it was going to probably cause a leak. Doing some preventative maintenence i just replaced the valve cover gaskets just in case. The looked pretty nasty, so i'm sure they would have leaked.

After i did the switch i noticed a significant improvement in the engine, it was quieter, ran smoother, seemed to have a little more power. The only downside was it started leaking oil around the oil filter adapter. That was kind of a pain to fix, but no big deal, just a few hours of work. I was actually expecting it to leak more from all the bad stuff i've heard on the net about it causing leaks in old engines.

The funny part is...i'm not so sure it actually was leaking now. Looking back, it could of just been a loose valve cover bolt that i forgot to tighten down i noticed the loose bolt right after i fixed the adapter....so the world may never know. Either way it dosnt leak a drop anymore.

So...i guess bottom line is you may or may not get leaks, just know how to fix them before you even try to switch over, it's not really as big of a deal as you'd think...well...provided you have the knowledge and tools. However...i really dont see the point of adding synthetic to an engine that burns oil, this stuff is pretty expensive you know? Check out your valve stems, maybe you'll get luck and those just need replaced, then you can run the synthetic.

Vader

****? Who's ****? My '96 has been sitting for eight years, and still gets an annual oil change. Yes, I like to change it in fall, even though they all get started and fully wrmed about once a month during storage. The '86 has had a lot of synthetic through it, even though it has only seen 3,000 miles in a few of its years.

And yes, synthetic have been around for commercial use since the mid='60s. Sundstrand has used it exclusively in their high altitude APUs and space-borne pumps since the early '60s. Kaësser has required it in their equipment since the early '70s. Moog (MHP) used and required it in their servo systems since the mid-'70s. Cleveland Gear has recommended it in their hydroviscous speed variators since the early '70s. Aviation has been using it in hydraulic systems since the late '50s. The list is long. It's really not a "new" thing, except in what is typically the last market to accept any changes. (Thanks, S.A.E.) Many of us insit on it in our braking systems but refuse to use it in gear cases and sumps. It's so confusing to some...

black & gold

Ok I realize that we are beating our heads against the wall. but I realizes after reading MR DUDE-1 's post, in a car that you want the best protection form that a synthetic is best I don't argue that. my thinking is that a work vehicle or old beater [not talking about fbodys] I woulden't want to change because I woulden't want to chase leaks. You have changed my opinion [for this application], As long as we agree to disagree. I know that synthetic is not new that's why I refered to it as popular to the market. Useing synthetic in the automotive market before the late 80's was not a regular topic. I know all about the 3k or 3 monthes thing I think I covered that earlier any way THANK YOU MR DUDE-1 you said it best. As for the rest, you are taking this personally it is not that I just wanted to share my experiance with mobil1. I am not a chemist but I can tell you that my claim is ligitimate not some urban myth. Thanks for the fun BTW RED Devil, NO I am not a 19 year old Italian drug dealer, Sorry to disapoint you all the 19 year old drug dealers now drive Hondas.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

The Mobil 1 leakage issue is not an "urban myth". In the mid-80's, I was talking to a high school classmate whose family owned the Mobil gas station in town (it's a small town - and this was after our 10-year reunion). He had a new Suburban in which he had put Mobil 1. He got so frustrated with leakage and consumption he switched it over to AMSOIL.

Of course, things have changed in the almost 20 years since (like one-piece rear main seals, center-bolt valve covers, oil requirements and formulas, etc.). And, things have changed since your experience 12 years ago.

red90bird

so if its a good idea to use sythetic after break in, what kind of oil should be used to break a motor in? just regular 5w-30?


hey "my z rocs" where do you work at that you do oil analysis?

Tom 400 CFI

Yes.

a mack6

iTrader: (1)

Would if be beneficial to my car to switch to a type of synthetic after using conventional for all its life? The car has 48k miles on it with no leaks whatsoever. Is there any pluses to running conventional or is just all out better to run synthetic??

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

Well heres my 2cents on the subject, being that synthetics have better detergent propertys and maintain a certain viscocity longer than dyno oils, I think it's safe to say a synthetic overall is a better oil, feel free to disagree.

i remeber reading somewhere in this thread that synthetics are thinner than dyno which i agree with at room temperature (to my eyes) but, that doesn't count once it's in an engine... Synthetics thin out less than dyno's,that's why dyno oils seem thicker.

As to mixing oils, no where on a oil bottle have i read that mixing oils is prohibited or a bad idea, i've done this on countless ocassions with no problems.

always go with manufacturer specs when choosing oils it's the safest way. A lot of newer engines are built to such close specs that thicker oils could ruin 1 completely... Matter in fact i know a kid who just rebuilt his and ruined it by running 10w 40 in it instead of 5w 30 like the manufacturer called for. Well thats what my instructor said anyways..... I've ran thick oil in things with no problems but, then again i do't own anything *new*.

Btw don't use fram oil filters....... Go check out an oil forum you will be able to read more than you ever wanna know about oil filters and dyno to synthetic discussions.

i've heard from a lot of people not to run a NEW engine on synthetic because, it's too slippery which causes ring seating problems. I suppose i could beleive this, any1 wanna go more in depth or verify this 1?

fyi though i have a 142k mile 305 tbi in my camaro that i put full synthetic castrol syntec in and plan to for the rest of it's life, no ill affects yet and no leaks (along with k&n oil filters).

Though this engine has been ran the past 140k on dyno oils (to the best of my knowledge)....

irocbirdbuilder

my dad begged me not to go to synthetic when i first ran it in my bird said it would cause leaks and just use regular quaker state, i ran royal purple in my bird and loved it and since i bought my camaro with 107K on it the only thing that has gone in it has been royal purple, no leaks, runs great and is extremely clean when i change it, i am impressed, thats all my partner runs in his 10 sec vert and he drives it more than i do mine, i just changed it last week, keep in mind the car is stored, gets started, warmed up and driven, usually driven "spiritly" and then sits again, royal purple says you cna run it longer i let it go to 3600 this time, i prefer changing it every 3k thats how i've been with anything and the oil was cleaner than any quaker state i have ever seen after 3k miles, i wont go back..

AS for fram filter, i've always ran em with no issue, my dads ran em on his race cars for years and never had a oil filtration problems with em, i might have to go search just out of curiosity what yall are talking about

flaming-ford

iTrader: (7)

basically they aren't horrible imo but, don't measure up compared to other filter.

they have no anti drainback valves on at least the 1s i remeber reading about and they are made out of cardboard which once heat cycled many times tends to fall apart. That's why they are frowned up on.

wix, puroliter, k&n, pure one that sorta thing are all good filters.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I’m sorry, this is going to be long but I want to comment on a lot of the posts made:

Synthetic just means that it is not refined out of base crude oil stock and usually means that it is manufactured to have specific qualities, rather then additives used to give those qualities. Most people don’t really care what the base is that they use.

As far as the law suits… well, if you could make it publicly known that you sued another oil company because you felt that their synthetic wasn’t really synthetic, well seems like a killer marketing ploy, huh?

As far as “why target Castrol,” well, I’ll say that I’m not a big castrol fan, but it is interesting that they are the only brand that is approved for use in US military vehicles.

No, they do not. Not only that but the fact that they meet an API spec doesn’t mean that they’re better. For a while BMW and a few others tried to void warranties if oil with the current API spec was used, and Mobile bottles didn’t have an API label or had an earlier spec at the time.

The issue was that the “new” (at the time) API spec required almost eliminating all the phosphorous based antiwear compounds from automotive oils for emissions reasons, and they were shown to cause worse engine wear. As a matter of fact, I wouldn’t recommend running ANY oil with a current API spec in an engine with flat tappet lifters or similar flat sliding surface contact areas. Instead I’d recommend using a diesel rated, racing oil (usually unrated), or some motorcycle oils under those conditions.

Bull****. There is one reason and one reason only that lighter oils are recommended in newer engines, CAFE fuel mileage standards. No other reason. And there are also plenty of current cars out there that will either not tolerate or the manufacturer doesn’t believe they’ll survive the wear resulting from doing that (ever look at an audi owner’s manual, or a lot of performance cars…?)

Funny, it’s actually been shown that adding synthetics in small quantities do impart the major portion of their advantages to the whole blend. Most of the synthetic blends are nowhere near 50:50, but in the 6:1 – 10:1 range. (this falls in the category of mid grade gas, it’s cheaper to mix your own if that’s what you want).

Lucas oil stuff is not the engine restorer. Do honest back to back tests, you’ll find that engines with a few miles on them really do run better with a can of engine restorer in them, WRT to power and efficiency. And yes, I’ve tried it with synthetic (mobil 1 and RP), I’ve never tried the stuff with conventional…

Every engine design that I know of burns oil, you have to burn oil to lubricate piston rings and valve stems, no choice. If you’re not gradually burning oil you better start investigating since that usually means that you’re still burning oil but something else is replacing it faster then you’re burning it.

FWIW, around the time that the vortec heads came out GM started seriously playing with decreasing the natural oil consumption in their engines for emissions reasons (again), and this is the reason why the vortec heads got the insane/large valve stem seals and the LSx engines went through something like 9 different piston ring designs/recalls and GM finally gave up in the late 4th gens and started using LS6 blocks in everything. FWIW, these parts will never live as long as similarly assembled parts with more traditional designs.

The real issue is the kind of driving and your PCV system. If you’re running a good, stock style PCV setup and the car sees some regular longer trips, then long intervals like that are fine. If you’ve pulled the stock PCV and/or put breathers in the valve covers then blowby gets into the oil eventually forming acids, and if the car doesn’t see longer trips then those contaminants (that still get in with a proper PCV, but in smaller amounts) and worse, oil condensation do not get “burned off” and ruin the oil.

The basic design of modern synthetics prevent you from “wearing out” synth oil. Like I said towards the beginning of this, synthetics are formulated from the get go to have the viscosity that you want. Conventional oils accomplished this by adding “viscosity modifiers” to the base stock to get exactly the viscosity that you wanted. All viscosity modifiers are long chain polymers that tangle themselves up with their neighbors increasing viscosity, but at the same time, parts sliding buy each other inside an engine will tear those long chain polymers “wearing out” the oil.

If you want to see this first hand, get a bottle of STP oil additive, all it is a viscosity modifier. Dump it in an already warmed up, running engine and watch the oil pressure gauge. It will shoot up as you dump it in. then after a few hundred miles it will start dropping.

This is also the reason why it used to be strongly recommended that you never use a multi grade with more of a separation between the “w” rating and the normal rating then you need (or at all with conventional oils in high performance applications). The way they were made was by using base stock that is the “w” weight and had friction modifiers added till the running weight was achieved, and as the oil wore you got thinner and thinner oil… The more modifiers were used to start, the lest real lubricating stuff there really is and the further viscosity can drop as the oil wears

See my previous comments on API ratings and phosphorous additives. THAT is what is really going on here.

The interesting thing is that in testing motorcycle oils are really all over the place with this, and using something like an automotive race oil will give much more consistent results (and higher levels of the additive all around). An alternative and probably better solution would be to run whatever nice synthetic automotive oil that floats your boat and then buy some of the GM oil additive over the counter at your local goodwrench counter. The additive is actually a bottle of almost pure anti wear additive… (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphates)

Be warned though, the stuff works well, but in too high a concentration it also kills catalytic converters in cars…

you’re off by about 2 decades. The original mobil 1 formulation in the 70’s didn’t have any seal sweller additives and caused cars that didn’t have any probles to start leaking oil.

In your case they were just both pieces of crap that should have been fixed.

I’ve owned numerous cars switched to synth with “high” miles (ranging from 75K to 150K at the time of the switch), none of them developed any leaks soon afterwards. The only vehicle that I have that has had consistent oil leak problems I’ve owned from day one and put synth in it at the first oil change (I believe that it was the factory fill also), and that one leaks from places that have other design issues.

Bull****, generally accepted is that about 1/3 goes out the exhaust, 1/3 gets dissipated by the cooling system and 1/3 becomes actual power output (I would argue that that is a bit ambitious, but doesn’t really matter). Yes, oil does help carry some of the heat to the cooling system, but for it to even be a significant fraction of the 1/3 you’d have to fill the cooling jackets around the cylinders and in the head with oil, and those are the major places where heat is removed from the system. Yes, oil does cool the bottom of the pistons, and it also dissipates some of the heat caused by friction surfaces (rocker *****, bearings…), but nowhere near what is directly cooled by the coolant passages.

it was used in racing in the 50’s and 60’s.

there are also damned good reasons not to use synth where gears are involved, ESPECIALLY rear axles.

a lot of filters are not specified as having drainback valves… like what purpose would it serve on an SBC? Its not like the oil is going to drain out of the fliter uphill against gravity…

the bigger issue is that the ends of the element are blocked off by a piece of cardboard that is glued to the filter element… hopefully someone besides me can see a problem with trying to make something to hold back the flow of >60psi of oil out of cardboard glued to paper…

phess11

Thanks for all the info. My LG4 is all stock. PCV is there. All i have done is disconnected the EFE because it makes some annoying noise until the car warms up.

phil

MrDude_1

i agree.
1/3 goes to power
1/3 out the exhaust.


that last 1/3 needs to be cooled.
of that, 1/3 of the COOLING is done by the oil.
obviously thats a rough figure that changes from motor to motor, but its around that.
oil does 1/3 of the cooling of the motor.. exactly what i said, not what you ASSumed.

Vader

Wow. This one came back from the dead? I thought we had already dispelled most of the misinformation regaring synthetic lubricants. Old habits and beliefs die hard, I guess.

Sure, but what if it's that really, really good Allied Signal "ballistic" cardboard?

So far, no one has been able to find evidence that Allied Signal has improved anything on many of their filter designs. I'll reluctantly use them as air filters if I cannot find something better, but I maintain a stock of real oil filters in case avaiability is an issue.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

heh, I still have a case of the real (origial) PF35L's... when they started dissapearing my wife ran across some and called me and said "they have the ones that you showed me, not the ones with the different welds."

I told her grab all you can find... she ended up comming home with a case of them that somehow were misspriced at $2.99 each...

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Unbelieveable!! 73 Posts over synthetic oil!!!

Anyone know why synthetic oil ever came to be? Has alot to do with the construction of the Alaskan pipeline. Shortly after that, it became readily available at stores. Guess I'm showing my age again...

I've used synthetic for at least 15 years in multiple cars, and I can honestly say that you'll be able too tell if an engine has ran dino oil or synthetic as soon as you start taking it apart. The engine that ran synthetic will be MUCH cleaner inside. That's gotta be worth something.

Of course with the price difference between regular or synthetic, I don't use it in my oil burning Thunderchicken. Just not worth it!

AJ_92RS

They found synthetic dinosaurs in Alaska???

rx7speed

here is something to throw a wrench into what you said


a tranny needs to have a EP additive in it that is why motor oil will not work.


my honda car is supposed to use 10w-40 weight oil in the tranny
regular motor oil
NOT gear oil.
and it says nothing about putting a EP in there so what gives?

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

The base stock that mobil uses is found in nature slathered all over caribou nuts, when they put the pipeline in it blocked off the escape route the caribou used to get away from the polar bears and the workers kept finding the stuff smeared all over the sides of the pipelines. The workers found that the slippery gunk made it difficult to work on the pipeline and was even more dangerous to leave there because the polar bears could easily smell out where to find a quick snack. When they tried burning it off they found that it resisted viscosity breakdown to a very high temperature making it even more of a pain and finally the started bottling it and selling it to us unsuspecting suckers just to get rid of it.

Really, I’m guessing that it had something to do with conventional oils gelling at cold temps making the job of running the pipeline hard on their equipment forcing them to come up with some cheaper way of making something that worked better.

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

That’s a bit of a loaded question there, since motor oil is rated on a different scale than gear lube, your 10w-40 oil is a similar viscosity to 80w-90 gear lube but with different additive packages.

As far as the right answer, just run the Honda stuff, it happens to work better in that application then most others, it even works better in the borg warner/tremic trannies that most American performance cars use then most other lubes…

Confuzed1

iTrader: (4)

Good guess!

At -40 degrees F, all the oil in thier dozers, trucks etc. would gel up overnight to a point to where it would not flow, and in the extreme cold block heaters couldn't keep up. Basically zero oil pressure - no workie.

So they switched to a new type of synthetic oil from Mobil, and many problems were solved for them. The synthetic maintained it's viscosity in much more extreme cold and hot climates. The rest is in this post apparently!!

EDIT: But the Synthetic dinosaur and Caribu thing were pretty funny!!

phess11

This is my LG4 after 23 years and 107,000 miles on Castrol. I know because I ordered it new from the factory in 1983. I am not saying it is better then synthetic but it looks pretty darn clean to me.

phess11

another

Vader

That's fairly clean. You obviously haven't been neglecting the maintenance.

This is the inside of a 350 after 111K miles on Mobil 1. Note the lack of even varnish on the spider and push rods:

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

I was going to say what vader just showed you… yea, that doesn’t look that bad for a conventional, but that orangish tint that everything has is some baked on residue that wouldn’t be there with a good synthetic, even if you weren’t as religious with the synth.

FWIW, normal Pensoil ends up with an engine looking a lot like Mobil 1, but you can instantly smell the conventional oils… it’s really surprising when you’re used to synth and suddenly you stick your nose near something that has had dino in it for an oil change or 2.

phess11

Good comparison. I can definiately see the difference. I switched to Mobil 1 at 107,000. Will that clean off that "varnish" over time?

rx7speed

honda stuff?

you mean there is honda made oil for this ?

honestly I never looked instead I have just been using at first 10w-30 dino juice but later switched it to a 5w-30 synthetic motor oil made by mobil 1.


but I am confused didn't you say motor oil is hard on gears and wears them out without the EP addatives.
I have been running plain motor oil in my transmission though and the gears are fine and I am not using any honda specific motor oil just regular plain jane motor oil (till I switched to synthetic that is)

rx7speed

sorry I think vader wins with his motor and the synthetic

rx7speed

I was always told penzoil usually leaves about the worst as far as sludge and gunk build up.

think I'm going to switch fully over to synthetic lube on my honda.

can't cost too much only a 3qt oiling system :-)

rx7speed

well ok so I switched to full synthetic oil in the motor now.
one thing I did notice. it idles a little higher now. no biggie easy to fix. it runs a little quieter now also.


as far as leaks my car already leaks a little so I will see if it gets worse or maybe even helps out a little bit.

I also burn a little oil. no biggie though so I'm not too worried about it.


but I think a lot of things with the synthetic oil carry over from the early days. just like the rotary motor. people still say that car can't last more then 60k miles and starts to burn oil like a stoner burns his weed. my car has over 200k miles on it. leaks more oil then it burns. still was doing 7k+ rpms drives all the time and drove fairly nice as well. only real problems are the TPS has a small glitch in it so off idle transition is a little rough and I have a problem with the fuel system that caused it to go down but once I get that fixed I'm sure she will still run just fine.
now early rotary motors didn't last all that long and where horrible at burning oil. maybe EARLY synthetic had a problem as well but it seems most have gotten the stuff fairly well down.


again this talks about real synthetic oil not the cheaper we will call it synthetic even though we are just more refined dino juice

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

Honda tranny fluid...

rx7speed

in the owners manual it doesn't even specify honda tranny fluid. all it says is use 10w-40 oil.
it doesn't specify honda oil or what not.

all I have used in the car is 10w-30 or 5w-30 MOTOR OIL. not honda trany oil or anything like that.

according to what you said when using motor oil in a transmission with gears it should eat those gears alive.
from the sounds of it your also saying the honda tranny fluid should work also.


I have used neither though and my gears are just fine. worst part is the synchros and the synthetic don't always mesh that well but it is still kicking ok and the gears again are still doing ok without that EP addative that is added to gear lube or EP addative I'm assuming is added to the honda tranny fluid.


any idea why I'm still going ok using normal motor oil rather then either the gera lube or honda tranny fluid?

Psycho_91Camaro

My 305 TBI has 13X,XXX miles on it and I use

VALVOLINE SYNPOWER FULLY SYNTHETIC 10W30

4 QTS and 1 whole bottle of LUCAS SYNTHETIC OIL

REALPOWER

Am I wrong, or is the sludge build up from not letting the motor warm up all the way. My uncle used to see this a lot with restoring old fire engines.

MrDude_1

yup.

honda tranny fluid is one of the best working oils for a T56... i also like the mobile 1 syn stuff, but it honestly doesnt shift as nice as the honda stuff.... they both do a great job though.

normally i run the moble1 stuff just because its easier to get, but ive run the honda stuff twice now.... when i change mine again, i'll probly swap over, if i have the time to drive to a honda dealership.

rx7speed

how much is this honda tranny fluid? and what weight range is it?
I'm taking it this would prolly be better to run though for the syncros at least.

maybe part mobil 1 and part honda fluid?