Condenser/Tach Showing Double?
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Rio Rico, AZ 85648
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Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Condenser/Tach Showing Double?
I've been working through some ignition troubles for the past few days and I'm getting closer.
Last night I changed the coil, ignition module, cap, rotor and plugs. Wires are already new. Earlier I had replaced the condensor with one I had laying around that looked to be in good condition.
The car starts fine, but has no low end. Now the tach shows the RPMS to be twice as high as they are. Occassionally the tach will drop down to where it belongs, but not for long. When it does, the car is much better.
Also after swapping all of those things out, there is a buzz sound coming from inside of the distributor somewhere, and now even the sound of an electrical arc. Took off the cap, and don't see any damage.
Could this be the condenser? Any other ideas?
Last night I changed the coil, ignition module, cap, rotor and plugs. Wires are already new. Earlier I had replaced the condensor with one I had laying around that looked to be in good condition.
The car starts fine, but has no low end. Now the tach shows the RPMS to be twice as high as they are. Occassionally the tach will drop down to where it belongs, but not for long. When it does, the car is much better.
Also after swapping all of those things out, there is a buzz sound coming from inside of the distributor somewhere, and now even the sound of an electrical arc. Took off the cap, and don't see any damage.
Could this be the condenser? Any other ideas?
#2
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Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Rio Rico, AZ 85648
Posts: 1,116
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Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Now every part of the ignition has been changed, the carb, the intake gasket. It still isn't right.
I still hear a buzz or whine coming from under the distributor cap, and the tachometer reads double what the engine speed really is. At idle, it is so weak that even turning the wheels kills the car.
It is running a little rich, but now the ignition is strong enough to at least avoid misfiring.
Is my problem hopeless because nobody is offering me much help.
There isn't a vac leak, and there is definately something amiss with the distributor, but what?
Please, Please HELP!!!!
I don't want to drop another $200.00 on a distributor, when I've already changed out everything in this one.
I'm on my knees begging for help.
I still hear a buzz or whine coming from under the distributor cap, and the tachometer reads double what the engine speed really is. At idle, it is so weak that even turning the wheels kills the car.
It is running a little rich, but now the ignition is strong enough to at least avoid misfiring.
Is my problem hopeless because nobody is offering me much help.
There isn't a vac leak, and there is definately something amiss with the distributor, but what?
Please, Please HELP!!!!
I don't want to drop another $200.00 on a distributor, when I've already changed out everything in this one.
I'm on my knees begging for help.
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