Idle problems after car wash?
#1
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Idle problems after car wash?
Ok, i finally got the car "running", it ran decent would hestitate a little underload, but not too bad. Would idle around 500-700 "ok", jumping back and forth. Ok, well i just got the car back from the body shop and we got a decent weather break today, so i took the car out and went to the carwash. Well the engine bay was really dirty from the body shop and just from sitting and what not. Well i covered the MAF sensor up(since the front end of the car is still at the body shop getting the headlight cubby holes painted) to keep the water out of that. So i hosed the engine bay down with some water, nothing to extremely crazy as far as water pressure or anything. Well when i started the car to pull it out of the car wash it wouldn't idle? But it would run ok if you kept the rpms up. So i finally got it home and now it won't idle?
The only thing i can think of is that i "cleaned" the IAC out? and now the idle needs to be reset?
Or is it possible i fried a sensor maybe?
Oh and i let the car set for a couple hours and tried again thinking maybe things would have been dried out??
Also removed the distributor cap and dried everything to make sure that was ok.
Thanks,
Brendan
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1987 IROC-Z L98,SuperRam,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 Roller, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, ADS 24#, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 3, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, KYB Shocks/Struts, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs, Polyurethan Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm,
To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here
The only thing i can think of is that i "cleaned" the IAC out? and now the idle needs to be reset?
Or is it possible i fried a sensor maybe?
Oh and i let the car set for a couple hours and tried again thinking maybe things would have been dried out??
Also removed the distributor cap and dried everything to make sure that was ok.
Thanks,
Brendan
------------------
1987 IROC-Z L98,SuperRam,EB 6085's,LPE 219/219 Roller, Crane 1.6RR, EB TPI Base, 58mm TB, ADS 24#, AFPR, K&N, EB TES, Catco Cat, 3" Borla Cat-Back, Accel cap,rotor,distro/other crap, MSD 6AL, MSD Blaster 3, Aluminum DS, 94 Disk Rear, Adjustable Valve, Precision 3.73 Gears, Sub-Frame Connectors, Hotchkis Lower Control Arms, KYB Shocks/Struts, Suspension Techniques Lowering Springs, Polyurethan Bushings all over the place, Moog Upper/Lower Ball joints and Tie Rods ends/Idler Arm,
To see the ROC, Check out the webpage Here
#2
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I would also remove the plug wires one at a time and blow them out also. If you have a remote coil, do the same with its wire and the coil itself. Try pulling apart all the weatherpack connectors and blowing them out also.
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I just got done checking the TPS to make sure it was working. Was reporting a .54 volt at closed throttle. Car runs fine if you don't let it idle. Thats my reasoning on the IAC as the culprit?
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