multiple "clunks" from rear with a load.
#1
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Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
multiple "clunks" from rear with a load.
This is a strange one. Whenever I mash the gas and have 2 or more people in the car I can hear multiple clunks from the rear end, you can feel also sitting there. When I am by myself and mash the gas there are no clunks.
Seems like a weight issue lowering the car and something is hitting but I can't figure it out.
I never had it till I swapped the rear end for a 3.73 posi.
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86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
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Seems like a weight issue lowering the car and something is hitting but I can't figure it out.
I never had it till I swapped the rear end for a 3.73 posi.
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86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project
#2
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i had that prob when my trany mont went. if not maybe the gears whernt shimed properly
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when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops
Curent: 350,performer RPM intake ,650dp, 700r4, headers, 3inch exhast
Spring 01: 406, Comp 282 solid cam, 2400 stall converter, every thing else the same.
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when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops
Curent: 350,performer RPM intake ,650dp, 700r4, headers, 3inch exhast
Spring 01: 406, Comp 282 solid cam, 2400 stall converter, every thing else the same.
R.I.P #3
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I think the cheap solution is to put airbags in the rear springs so the rear no longer collapses.
A lot of cars make sounds when the rear collapses, and it is usually from the movement of suspension parts working at a different angle. It is not always an internal problem with the rearend.
just a ray of hope for you.
good luck
A lot of cars make sounds when the rear collapses, and it is usually from the movement of suspension parts working at a different angle. It is not always an internal problem with the rearend.
just a ray of hope for you.
good luck
#4
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Mine does that when goin over a bump w/ people in the car, OR when cornering and hammering down. I just had the rear shocks replaced too....thought that was the problem
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Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by GOLD85:
i had that prob when my trany mont went. if not maybe the gears whernt shimed properly
</font>
i had that prob when my trany mont went. if not maybe the gears whernt shimed properly
</font>
If my gears were not shimmed properly wouldn't it clunk with or without the extra weight? I do believe I did shim it correct though.
Could the rear axle be hitting the exhaust pipes with the extra weight? I would think the pipes would be lower with weight and closer to the axle? Maybe? How could I prove this theory?
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86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Sounds to me like something to do with the driveshaft is hitting the bottom of the car.
Get some new rear springs, that way it won't sink so low. They're real easy to put in; about on the same level of time and difficulty as changing the oil.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
Get some new rear springs, that way it won't sink so low. They're real easy to put in; about on the same level of time and difficulty as changing the oil.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
#7
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Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
How long ago did you do the swap? About a week after I did my 3.73/posi/disc swap, I heard a loud banging coming from underneath the car everytime I hit the gas. Luckily, I was right outside my house. I pulled in, "bang bang bang", shut the car off, and crawled under. I grabbed an exhaust pipe, swung it side-to-side, and nearly screamed. It looked like my car had split in half- the whole back of the car was swaying!
After coming to, I realized that I never checked the torque of any of the rear suspension bolts after the swap. I lost the bolt that holds the upper right of the panhard rod to the body. When I hit the gas, the rear swung to the side, and my driveshaft introduced itself to my exhaust's intermediate pipe. I'm still amazed I didn't punch a hole thru the pipe!
I found the bolt in front of my neighbor's house, the nut was long gone.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
After coming to, I realized that I never checked the torque of any of the rear suspension bolts after the swap. I lost the bolt that holds the upper right of the panhard rod to the body. When I hit the gas, the rear swung to the side, and my driveshaft introduced itself to my exhaust's intermediate pipe. I'm still amazed I didn't punch a hole thru the pipe!
I found the bolt in front of my neighbor's house, the nut was long gone.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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#8
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Check the control arm bolts and panhard bar. Maybe something turned loose. Also check the shock mounts and bolts and see if the rubber mounts are even there and in good condition
#9
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Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RB83L69:
Sounds to me like something to do with the driveshaft is hitting the bottom of the car.
Get some new rear springs, that way it won't sink so low. They're real easy to put in; about on the same level of time and difficulty as changing the oil.
</font>
Sounds to me like something to do with the driveshaft is hitting the bottom of the car.
Get some new rear springs, that way it won't sink so low. They're real easy to put in; about on the same level of time and difficulty as changing the oil.
</font>
I know the springs are easy and I have just recently put Jamex lowering springs and it still clunks with extra weight.
Check out my page for what I did to this car, I can handle any mod.
------------------
86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge G2's, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine Belt Setup, Dual IROC Fans, Jamex springs, 16" IROC Rims, 36mm/24mm Sway Bars, Global West Steering Brace. Hotchkis Rear LCA's,Panhard Bar and SFC's.
My Camaro Project
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Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Lowering springs would make the problem worse... now, the driveshaft is even closer to the stuff that's above it.
Driveshaft loops go up at the front right behind the trans, and have nothing to do with the issue at hand; unless of course that's what the driveshaft is hitting.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
Driveshaft loops go up at the front right behind the trans, and have nothing to do with the issue at hand; unless of course that's what the driveshaft is hitting.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
#11
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Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by RB83L69:
Lowering springs would make the problem worse... now, the driveshaft is even closer to the stuff that's above it.
Driveshaft loops go up at the front right behind the trans, and have nothing to do with the issue at hand; unless of course that's what the driveshaft is hitting.
</font>
Lowering springs would make the problem worse... now, the driveshaft is even closer to the stuff that's above it.
Driveshaft loops go up at the front right behind the trans, and have nothing to do with the issue at hand; unless of course that's what the driveshaft is hitting.
</font>
The problem didn't get worse after lowering, it still takes another person in the car to hear the clunking.
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Check your exhaust system and fuel tank for "tightness". I had an annoying "clunk" and it turned out both my exhaust and fuel tank was slightly loose.
The problem you may have in isolating this is jacking the car up may "tighten" the system enough that you can't notice it. Try squeezing under the car and having a couple people sit in the car while you see how the suspension handles the extra weight and then start "shaking" parts to see if they "bang around".
If you have a "pit" that will allow you to crawl underneath without jacking the car up, it may help you. This is what it took to find my "clunk".
[This message has been edited by Glenn91L98GTA (edited February 21, 2001).]
The problem you may have in isolating this is jacking the car up may "tighten" the system enough that you can't notice it. Try squeezing under the car and having a couple people sit in the car while you see how the suspension handles the extra weight and then start "shaking" parts to see if they "bang around".
If you have a "pit" that will allow you to crawl underneath without jacking the car up, it may help you. This is what it took to find my "clunk".
[This message has been edited by Glenn91L98GTA (edited February 21, 2001).]
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