nthacker

Hello,
I am new to this board, came across it today, and was relieved to find a board for Camaro owners. Let me tell you about my problem, any and all help is appreciated.

I have an '89 Camaro RS, 305. I had a problem for a few years now that has progressively gotten worse. When stopping the car, and trying to restart it, the motor would not turn over, nothing would happen. After letting the car set for a period of time from twenty minutes to two hours, the car would restart. The problem got worse with waiting periods lasting from twenty minutes to as much as six hours. Now, the car will not start at all. It may start at random. I love the car and want to fix the problem. I had talked to several mechanics and have heard that it may be the security system in the car. Anyone had this problem? I have replaced the following: battery(x2), alternator, starter(x2). The problem remains.

Thanks in advance, and any help would be appreciated. I look forward to your replies.

Glenn

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Dead Man, Inc.
A Decade of Destruction

LeeH

iTrader: (2)

I had this exact same problem with my 89 Firebird. It drove me nuts! I replaced everything, including the ignition switch (not the key - the box that sits on the column under the dash). Every time I replaced something, I thought the problem was solved, especially when I did the ignition switch - the contact that went to the starter solenoid was burned.

You mentioned that you have a security system in your car - so did I, and that was the last thing I did - removed the whole damned thing, and rewired the ignition circuit back to stock. Haven't had a problem since.

I did a postmortem on the alam system components, and the culprit was the 12V relay for the ignition cutout. Try replacing that first, they cost $5 at NAPA.

BTY - did you ever try jumping the car with another running car? The extra voltage is usually enough to overcome the resistance in the relay, and give it enough juice to close.

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89 Firebird Formula
WS6 package,ZZ4 Crate engine
SLP 58MM TB, Edelbrock TES Headers
Random Tech 3" cat, SLP 3" stainless exhaust
9 bolt rear, Hotchiss swing arms, Lakewood panhard rod
Corvette 2/4 servo, kevlar band, full poly rear.
Centerline 16x8 rims, B.F Goodrich drag radials

nthacker

Thanks, Lee, the security system is the anti-theft system that came with the car. I was reading the article on the VATS problem on these cars and was wondering if this might be my problem. Any thoughts?

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Dead Man, Inc.
A Decade of Destruction

JoelOl75

Check VATS in electrical.

Red Devil

nth, what exactly does the car do during the no starts? Clicking, cranking? Any power to anything else while this is going on? Have you tried jumping it during the no start condion?

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"Only in Britain could it be thought a defect to be “too clever by half.” The probability is that too many people are too stupid by three-quarters."

John Major

nthacker

Red Devil,
The car does nothing when it won't start, no clicking, no cranking, nothing. Lights come on, the electrical system works, but the engine does not turn over and does not click. I have tried jumping the car off, sometimes this works, but most times no.

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Dead Man, Inc.
A Decade of Destruction

JakeJr

I'm assuming you've checked all the basic stuff like having a fully charged battery, good, clean connections and grounds, etc.

When you changed starters, did you also change solenoids?

I had a very similiar problem a couple of weeks ago and it turned out to be the solenoid waS getting heat soaked and wouldn't engage the starter until it had cooled down.

New solenoid and solenoid heat shield and problem fixed.

Try the old screwdriver to the 12 volt and "S" terminal on the solenoid. This will bypass the solenoid and eliminate it as the cause. If it cranks/starts with the screwdriver jumping those two terminals, it's the solenoid.

It should crank with no key but won't start. If the key is "on", the engine should start and run.

If it'lll crank but won't start with the key "on", then it's either the ignition in the steering column or the VATS.

If it's VATS you can pay to have it repaired (or track it down yourself) or just buy a bypass plug from Ecklers or MAD.

Does your ignition key have the little resistor (or whatever it's officially called)? I've read of them going out too. The bypass cures that too since it will send the correct signal to the VATS.

Hope this helps.

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9

[This message has been edited by JakeJr (edited February 20, 2001).]