ppl with aftermarket cams please step in!
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Car: 98 T/A
Engine: ls1
ppl with aftermarket cams please step in!
when I had my engine rebuilt the guy that did it for me "supposingly" put a Comp Cams cam into it instead of a peanut cam. The whole rebuilt job is worth **** so I wonder about the cam, if he really put the aftermarket cam or not.
Here is how it looks like
1 of 2
Here is how it looks like
1 of 2
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Car: 98 T/A
Engine: ls1
here's the close up of a place where a number should be (on a stock cam) it looks like sb worked on it so the # is not visible any more. I don't know how to explain it best but that's the only place that is round.
I hope you get what I mean lol
1. is how the cam looks like everywhere else
2. is how it looks where a stock # usually is
so wht do you guys think? I need to know before I start calling BS.
From what I've heard before aftermarket cams are round not like here (see 1.)
I hope you get what I mean lol
1. is how the cam looks like everywhere else
2. is how it looks where a stock # usually is
so wht do you guys think? I need to know before I start calling BS.
From what I've heard before aftermarket cams are round not like here (see 1.)
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Car: 98 T/A
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Originally posted by SSC
The grind number is stamped on the back of the cam, got a pic of that?
The grind number is stamped on the back of the cam, got a pic of that?
I saw stock cam out of 92 LT1 vette and the number was stamped in the spot that I took a closeup of.
Anyway I couldn't find any other numbers anywhere on that cam.
I will take pics of both ends of my cam and post them in few hours.
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Car: yy wife, crazy.
Engine: 350, Vortecs, 650DP
Transmission: TH-350
Axle/Gears: 8.5", 3.42
That appears to be a GM cam. The flat spots that are between the cam lobes is something I've only seen on GM cams.
The thing to do is use either a micrometer or a dial caliper and measure the base circle, then the lobe lift, and subtract the two. That will give you the lobe lift. Multiply that by 1.5 and you'll get the valve lift.
I've never seen a Comp Cams replacement roller (which that is based on the step on the front for the factory retainer) with less than .480" lift. So if it's any less than that.....
You may want to go to Comp Cams website and confirm that though.
The thing to do is use either a micrometer or a dial caliper and measure the base circle, then the lobe lift, and subtract the two. That will give you the lobe lift. Multiply that by 1.5 and you'll get the valve lift.
I've never seen a Comp Cams replacement roller (which that is based on the step on the front for the factory retainer) with less than .480" lift. So if it's any less than that.....
You may want to go to Comp Cams website and confirm that though.
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No numbers... it's probably a stock cam. Even if it had been reground into a larger-than-stock profile, you'd see a shop ticket number or something stamped on it.
I'd bet it's some stock cam.
Take a micrometer, and measure its height from the tip of the lobe to the opposite side, and at right angles to that; subtract the difference, that will give you the lobe lift (within a couple of thousandths); multiply that by 1.5 (stock rocker ratio), and you will get the lift spec for it. Odds are you'll come up with a number around either around .400" (peanut cam) or .440" (L98 cam).
I'd bet it's some stock cam.
Take a micrometer, and measure its height from the tip of the lobe to the opposite side, and at right angles to that; subtract the difference, that will give you the lobe lift (within a couple of thousandths); multiply that by 1.5 (stock rocker ratio), and you will get the lift spec for it. Odds are you'll come up with a number around either around .400" (peanut cam) or .440" (L98 cam).
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