I've got a 90 firebird formula. It would start sometimes if i jiggled the steering column. I replaced the ignition switch and it tried to start then nothing. Now it won't turn over. It's getting power to the starter. The security light stays on all the time now. I tried bypassing the security system by taking the reading of the key and getting a 4.75 resistor and wiring it in to the two yellow wires coming down the column and it didn't work. I've also replaced the the neutral safety switch. Did i do something wrong when trying to bypass the vats? I took the steering wheel off to check the cylinder but i can't get it out. I removed the 3 star headed screws and it won't slide out. Is there a way to remove the cylinder?

 

You put the resistor on the wrong wires. Should have been on the purple/yellow & black/white wires. Also, there is only one lock cylinder retaining screw in there and is located at about the one o'clock position with wheels turned straight. Remove it and pull the lock cylinder out.

 

I tried connecting it to those wires too and nothing. What else could it be?

 

What is the resitance value (in OHM's) of the pellet in your key? Also, since you replaced the Park/Neutral switch, did you adjust it and try to start the car with it in gear?

 

OK. Are you sure of the values on your VATS bypass? The 2 yellow wires with the funny little plug are the ones you were looking for(at least it is in an '89 Firebird).

If the security light is on all the time, then I'd doubt they are...... but, then, you took a reading from your key.....


....Wait......which end of the wires did you attatch it to? Column or dash side? Make sure the resistor is on the dash side of the wireing harness.

I'd almost be willing to bet!

 

Well,

He says that he has tried both sides of the connector and that he has a value of 4.75 resistance. If his actual resistance is 4,750, then that would give him a GM code #11 key. If he is trying to use a resistor with the resistance value of 4.75 OHM's, then I can understand why it doesn't work. It is too low. From the way he has described his problem, it sounds like a broken or worn wire on the ignition lock cylinder.

 

:hail: Trickster, as usual I think you're correct.....but I'd love to know where he found a 4.75 ohm resistor!

Do they sell them that low at Radio Shack?!

 

Yep, I've seen them as low as 1 OHM in there. Also some electronic's store sell them that low.

 

LOL......1 ohm?!

just don't solder the connections!

 

I didnt read all of this thread, because I started laughing. I think you put the VATS delete resistor on the airbag!!!


Anyway, if you attempt to start the car with bad VATS, it will not start for 5 minutes even if you've got it right. So put the VATS delete on the CORRECT wires this time. If it doesnt work, wait a few minutes.

 

and thanks again to Trickster for helping me with my starting problem in the fall!

 

I got the cylinder out finally. The two yellow wires coming off of it were cut. I ran two wires down to where they plug into the security system. It got the security light off and now when i try to start it, the starter makes a clicking sound very fast. The starter is new so i know that isn't the problem. What else could it be?

 

Dead battery, bad battery cable, bad connection cable to battery

 

ok, get your volt meter out, check voltage at the battery while trying to crank it, should stay above about 10volts, get under the car while check the voltage to the remote wire to the starter(thats the thin wire) it should be about 12 volts when turning the key to crank it. make sure you have 12 volts all the time to the thick red cable. if both of those are good, bring the puppy back to pep boys, u got urself a bad starter. "new" and automotive electronics don't mean anything, i replaced an alternator on a friends car told them to get it RIGHT FROM THE DEALER cuz i haven't had any problems with them, well the next day i was putting another alternator in-it was bad!
hope that helps