driver side door switch motor
#1
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 553
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From: Phoenix Arizona
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 350 crate
Transmission: built 700r4
driver side door switch motor
Where is the "driver side door switch motor" located, and what does it look like? I assume it's inside the door?
is that what moves the door electric door lock?
Thanks so much!
is that what moves the door electric door lock?
Thanks so much!
#2
TGO Supporter
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 6,127
Likes: 8
From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Inside the door frame panel at the rear of the panel, held in place by Rivets. The latch assembly is secured by three torx bit screws.
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Last edited by Trickster; 01-31-2004 at 10:52 AM.
#3
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 15
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
The door lock is moved by a solenoid that's just below the door latch.
If your power loacks seem to weak to move the lock position, it's not the solenoid; it's the door latch mecahnism. THey get all crudded up with road funk over the years, and get sticky, and require too much power for the solenoid to overcome it.
Take the door latch mechainism out, soak it in diesel fuel for a day or 2, and carefully lube every pivot or sliding point inside it with white lithium grease.
Leave the solenoid alone, it's not the problem as long as it works at all.
If your power loacks seem to weak to move the lock position, it's not the solenoid; it's the door latch mecahnism. THey get all crudded up with road funk over the years, and get sticky, and require too much power for the solenoid to overcome it.
Take the door latch mechainism out, soak it in diesel fuel for a day or 2, and carefully lube every pivot or sliding point inside it with white lithium grease.
Leave the solenoid alone, it's not the problem as long as it works at all.
#4
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 553
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From: Phoenix Arizona
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 350 crate
Transmission: built 700r4
well, I was told that the driver side " door switch motor" is my problem, twitching locks (already replaced the relay) and draining battery power. a friend of mine told me that her father had the same problem, he replaced the door switch motor and both problems went away.
I'm just going down the line replaceing what everyone thinks the problem is, I'll eventualy get to it haha!
thanks for the info though :-)
I'm just going down the line replaceing what everyone thinks the problem is, I'll eventualy get to it haha!
thanks for the info though :-)
#5
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 15
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
I can't see how it's possible for the solenoid to drain the battery.... the only way for that to happen would be if the switch is bad.
I think your friend is confused.
So what do you mean by "twitching locks"? Do you mean that the lock solenoid seems to be randomly engaging for no particular reason? Do you have a car alarm that opens the doors?
I think your friend is confused.
So what do you mean by "twitching locks"? Do you mean that the lock solenoid seems to be randomly engaging for no particular reason? Do you have a car alarm that opens the doors?
#6
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 553
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From: Phoenix Arizona
Car: 86 Iroc
Engine: 350 crate
Transmission: built 700r4
when it's cold outside, the locks "twitch", they keep trying to lock themselves over and over. it scared the mess out of me the first time it happened (no, the alarm has no effect on this, this started before I had an alarm). People think my car has a bomb in it, or someone is trapped in there trying to get out or something.
And I also have a problem of something draining the battery.
And I also have a problem of something draining the battery.
#7
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 15
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
The solenoid cannot do that by itself. One of the lock switches has to be bad, or wires rubbing somewhere (rather unlikely).
I'd start by unplugging the lock switches from their harness one at a time, and see if it goes away.
I'd start by unplugging the lock switches from their harness one at a time, and see if it goes away.
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#8
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: conway, s.c.
Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
If both sides are twitching, I would have to agree that it is either one of the switches or the wires leading to the switches. Possibly some come corrosion on the switch contacts. If it is only one side twitching, it would lead me to believe that it is the wires going to the solenoid that are the culprits here. Another scenario is that water, trapped in the door frame, could have gotten into the solenoid either at the connector or at the rubber boot at the top and cause it to twitch.
Just a thought!!!!!!!!!!
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!
Just a thought!!!!!!!!!!
The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!
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